Coil Springs for my LR4 in the future as it ages

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avslash

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Good to know! So a strut spacer instead of the Johnson Rods? Does the spacer effect ride quality? I've heard raising the LR can at times be problematic for the computer. Thanks


Yes.

Install the spacers and then take a quick ride around the block. If you ever rode a solid rubber tired bike as a toddler, you will recall the feeling.

The spacers themselves do not lift the truck. Thus, you have a truck sitting at the same ride height with much less air pressure in the springs to get to that ride height. It is very noticeable.

Install the rods, and it goes back to normal.

I would also recommend taking careful measurements at each corner from the hubcap centerline to the lower edge of the wheel flare molding before making any changes.

After you install the rods you are looking for this measurement to be about 50mm greater than your initial measurement. It might take some adjusting with the IID tool or similar to get it exact. IME, small variations in this measurement created fairly noticeable changes in the ride/handling of the truck.
 

BeemerNut

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I wouldn't worry about it. In future years you won't be able to drive off road.


So very true.

A blown airbag failure traveling deep off road just waiting to happen. Never seen a coil spring suddenly fail plus cheaper than replacing airbags.

In my area in 82 a large local motorcycle hill climbing area established in the late 50's. Came into the area from several hills back (370 Pursang) and was greeted by a ****** off anti bike Sheriff. Received a fat $105 trespassing ticket.

New housing project completed in another area then the new homeowners complained about the shooting range noise forcing the long established range to shut down. Second range also forced to close within a 45 minute drive.

A electric motorcycle (no gas bikes allowed) banned on 17 mile drive from Pacific Grove to Carmel. It's a private road with guard shacks plus a toll fee......~~=o&o>......
 
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Joh55y

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Just wondering - does any of the above conversation refer also to the P38 air springs?
 

mateostyle

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Changing the air strut on the LR4 is really no different than changing a strut on any other vehicle, with the addition of plugging an air line in.

Jack up the offending corner of the vehicle until the wheel comes off the ground, pull the old air strut, put in the new, done.
I replaced the drivers side (left hand drive) air strut on the LR4 last weekend but could not get to the back nut on the passenger side. Is there a trick or tip on accessing that back nut? Tnx
 

ryanjl

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It's been over a year since I did mine, so I can't really remember. There are ways you can access it from the engine bay, if I recall correctly. Otherwise, it's a matter of having the correct swivel ratcheting wrench.
 

mateostyle

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It's been over a year since I did mine, so I can't really remember. There are ways you can access it from the engine bay, if I recall correctly. Otherwise, it's a matter of having the correct swivel ratcheting wrench.
Appreciate the feedback. I have a flexible swivel ratcheting wrench on the way now.
 

f1racer328

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Appreciate the feedback. I have a flexible swivel ratcheting wrench on the way now.
Which one did you order? I'm ordering a flex head 1/4 ratchet and a 15mm flex head ratcheting wrench... Kind of curious what the better option is if you don't mind updating me when you do the job.

I'm about a month out from starting my suspension work.
 

gsxr

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I bought this set a few years ago and have been happy with it:


GEARWRENCH 4 Pc. 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" Drive 120XP™ Flex Head Ratchet Set - 81230P​


61V5es-gmkL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

mateostyle

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Which one did you order? I'm ordering a flex head 1/4 ratchet and a 15mm flex head ratcheting wrench... Kind of curious what the better option is if you don't mind updating me when you do the job.

I'm about a month out from starting my suspension work.
For the LR4, I ordered this flex head ratchet and can now access the back but on the front right shock with a standard 15mm like that comes with a craftsman ratchet set:
ARES 42026-3/8-inch Drive 72-Tooth Flex Head Ratchet - Premium Chrome Vanadium Steel Construction & Chrome Plated Finish - 72-Tooth Quick Release Reversible Design with 5 Degree Swing https://a.co/d/6nC4VIp

It would be good to have a smaller flex head ratchet (~7”) as backup. The 7” ratchets tend to be thinner which might help.

Also, I used
GEARWRENCH XL Locking Flex Head... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBC898?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And
DURATECH 14 * 15mm Extra Long... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XQ3HHBX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I don’t know that you need the flex head wrenches with a flex ratchet but for me personally i would have all of them for the job bc of the tight space.

Else, I highly recommend buying this as well for the airline:
Chicago Brand Combo Wrench 10mm & 12mm Ratcheting Open End Stainless Steel #56268

This is a must have bc what I found is the space is so small it is very difficult to work the airline nut off (after you use a flare nut wrench first to crack it loose). It will save you at least 15 min to get it off and 15min to put it on as well as help protect the airline from all the movement caused when using with a standard wrench. This is a BIG headache saver.

You will need a torque wrench and breaker bar, 15/16 socket, 21mm and 22mm sockets.

The LR3s have access to the back nuts (on the fronts) by taking off the heat shields in the engine bay. For the LR4 I did not find any way to access the back nuts (on the fronts) from the engine bay - wasted a lot of time looking.
 
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