I’m going to look at a LD2 1999 td5 on Saturday. I wonder if anyone could pass on some words of wisdom. Things to look out for.
It’s said to be mechanically fine, it’s got 280ks had a new wiring loom.
Gearbox rebuilt.
It’s got a power steering leak, I haven’t had a look yet. Who knows if its a hose or pump of the steering box.
I’m gonna check for the cdl, on top of the transfer case otherwise I don’t want to buy the car.
Any adivice welcome.
Thanks
That's a damn good engine and upgrade vs older. Funny thing, same ****** as the 3.9/4.0 with only a 5 mm bore increase, parts already at hand? Don't sweat the transfer. Must ask what about the transfer case? Does it still have that stupid rubber flex joint at the rear diff? Replace it ASAP with a real steel U joint and shaft. A RR shaft should fit, I did on my D1, no more twisting three of them apart plus vibration problems.
Just be careful as LR steering system replacement parts are expensive.
https://www.suburbanautoparts.com/oem-parts/land-rover-reservoir-assembly-qfx000010?c=bT0xJmw9NSZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3RzJms9MQ==
I bet you have a 6 sq/ft area soaked in PS fluid causing you to not pin point the leaking part.
Best to wash down or better yet pressure spray with an engine syphon gun with solvent or regular paint thinner then air blast dry to locate the leak.
Several times it's been the PS reservoir low pressure feed hose connection which becomes soft turning mush at the clamp to the reservoir. I'm on the third low pressure hose replacement in 20 years owning a 95 D1. Crappy low quality and expensive formed rubber hose.
If your leaking from the steering box if the same box as on the 95 D1 i'd bet 95% of the time it's the input shaft to the box that decided to leak. It was a 17 month short lived prone to failure Bendix box that Ford designed finally gaving up on it switching to a Saginaw box back in 69 as Ford sold the rights to manufacture that box to Land Rover, go figure? Flawed input seal design plus running hot, that ZF pump creates a lot of heat breaking down the PS fluid, smell it, it will smell burnt which heat is the enemy of rubber seals. A good time while repairing, fluid drain and flush then add a PS cooler mounted up front in the air stream.
Depending on that vehicle's history, owners working the steering system hard off road, oversize tyres or just plain cranking the steering wheel while standing still adds wheel turning forces several times higher than just creeping along before cranking the steering wheel.
If a dry box your lucky but at your high miles it would be wise to readjust the steering box BUT ONLY ADJUSTING IT AFTER THE CONNECTION TO THE STEERING WHEEL PLUS PITMAN ARM BALL JOINT HAS BEEN REMOVED! Only then will you be able to 1st adjust input shaft preload and only then 2nd adjustment feel of slight straight ahead position sector shaft preload. It's tighter in the straight ahead steering wheel position. Not disconnecting the input and pitman arm ball joint you will over tighten these adjustments causing accelerated steering box wear and box failure. I have rebuilt several of the Bendix type boxes for Ford pickups buy machining replacement bushings hence very familiar with LR boxes unless LR switched to another brand or model.....~~=o&o>......