Front diff making metal

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Huy Tran

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So you finished the rebuilt then?
I've got everything disconnected and ready to drop. Will do that this afternoon and replace those bearings.
 

Krill

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So you finished the rebuilt then?
I've got everything disconnected and ready to drop. Will do that this afternoon and replace those bearings.

Yeah finished and all back together. Put about 1000 miles on so far and seems fixed. No more grind whine or vibration. Occasionally I feel like I hear it making noise.. but odd are I’m just over analyzing the noises. To get the drive shaft out I gave it a few good whacks with a heavy rubber mallet. It was pretty stuck in there
 

Huy Tran

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Good to hear that.
Did you have to get anything extra to finish the job? Like gaskets or o ring?
Just want to make sure I dont have to run to the part stores or wait for something to get shipped.
 

Pfunk951

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Yeah, get a write up going for this!! This is good stuff..

Good Job on the rebuild!

Mike
 

BeemerNut

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On a cone bearing without a lip to secure a bearing splitter first cut and remove the bearing cage and rollers. Repeat again with a hand grinder and cut into the bearing especially keeping an eye on how deep your grinding into the cone and not into the bearing's neck of the carrier. Take a chisel (eye protection first) and wack at the ground cut, this should crack the cone making for a easy removal process of the cone.
In regards removing a cup bearing like in a hub it should have two channels allowing a long drift to contact the cup driving it out of the bore but carefully a little at each side preventing cocking the cup.
Bad designed parts (LR) at times do not have a lip not allowing a slide hammer to bite or two slots to contact and remove a cup, no worries just get out the stick welder and burn in a good size puddle at the roller track, puddle weld two at opposite sides of the cup, let it cool down and shrink to room temp then the bearing cup will about come out with your fingers. Just be damn sure you remove all weld splatter followed by a solvent spray bath before reassembly. Heat cones, freeze cups for easy bearing assembling, not beating on them or applying excessive forces with a press. Why fight them with the risk of damaging new bearings?
.....~~=o&o>......
 
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Krill

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Yup...exactly what I had to do. Very nerve racking taking a grinder to a 2500 screw up but I had no other way to do it. Getting the diff out is pretty straightforward.
- remove the frame cross member
-remove rim hub center cap and break axel nut lose
-remove tire
-remove upper control ark and sway bar link( gives you enough room to get the 1/2 shaft out and saves you disassembling everything)
-remove 1/2 shaft
-remove passenger side axel carrying tube( there is a small bearing inside at the end where the seal is that my rebuild kit didn’t come with so take care not to get dirt or dust inside it)
-remove drive shaft bolts( to the yoke) and use rubber mallet to break lost the drive shaft from the diff
-undo diff breather hose and remaining mounting bolts. And trans oil cooler will have to be unbolted and slid up out of the way( diff is heave so have a jack present to take the weight.
-push rear of diff( yoke side) up and slide towards rear of the car so the front can drop down and out. Prepare yourself for lots of cursing because it’s a b****

As for splitting the case and bearing removal I did what Beemernut said. But to each his own. Left and right bearings on the diff ARE DIFFERENT sizes so make sure you put the correct bearing in place when reassembling.

Let me know any other questions and I’ll try to help out

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