Transmission Fault and more

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Ken2006

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Hello everyone, my 2006 LR3 has a U2023 code with the “limited gears available” message in the display along with “HDC Special Programs off” message, and an amber brake light on. All of this happened after the car sat for about a month. Prior to all this I had just returned from a road trip of about 1,000 miles and the LR preformed flawlessly. After reading some threads here I’m curious if replacing the battery might fix it? I did put the battery on a charger all night, was pulling 7 amps when I hooked it up and is now fully charged but didn’t fix any of my problems. I just don’t want to spend $120+ for a new battery when the current one seems and tests fine. Any thoughts on what I should do? Thanks in advance!
 

5crows

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So it did a system test and redisplayed the same codes and messages? Replacing a the iffy battery fixed a raft of erroneous error on my 2006 LR3. Maybe you have corrosion on the connectors or loose connections? Did you wire brush posts and connectors? A little corrosion can make a good battery behave badly!
 

Ken2006

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Thanks for the reply. I did not clean the battery posts but do not see any corrosion on them. Certainly worth a try...and much cheaper then a new battery! I just don’t want to spend too much getting this fixed, the Rover has 260,000 miles on it and continues to run strong but is only worth a few thousand bucks.
 

Ken2006

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Update: I cleaned the battery terminals and went ahead and got a new battery since the other one was three years old, didn’t fix the problem.
Is there a possibility this problem could be a faulty brake light switch?
 

5crows

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I was driving in heavy rain recently and started getting repeating brake light errors accompanied with beep, and also Check Brake Pad display messages. I got home but did check and replace the front brakes and when removing the wear sensor on drive side, it broke. It might have already been broke or even disconnected. But horseshoe clip was definitely broke when I examined it. I taped it off and started truck to see what the impact was going to be with new brakes pads and rotors. It was a yellow Brake light constant. Other then that, no beeps, no warning messages. Missing or faulty Sensors can send you into the weeds. Brakes had to be pumped slowly a few times, but worked fine on a test drive, with solid yellow light. Eventually I figured out how to replace the sensor, had to remove the driver side wheel cowling, loosen the fender flare, what a job to restring the wire.

The limited gears error is possibly some transmission sensor. I think I've seen that intermittent once or twice.

I once thought I had a shift linkage issue because the truck would come out of drive at a stop light or after braking down hill. After days of work - changing transmission pan and filter, adjusting and readjusting linkage, Linkage was fine, just a loose sensor behind the linkage cable on the transmission , caused the D not to display on dash even though the Shifter was in D. I would sometimes get Transmission Fault and maybe did see the limited gear message during that ordeal, but No D display on console, no go.

Good luck.
 

Ken2006

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Thanks for the reply 5crows. What’s strange about my issue is the fact the vehicle was fine the last time I drove it then after sitting for a month, all this stuff happened at startup. I still think I must have a bad electrical connection somewhere. Very frustrating.
 

catman

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Was the vehicle outside? You can get these errors if any moisture got down into the shifter assembly or into the wiring running along the door sills. A spilled drink, or an opened or clogged sunroof drain can cause that. A warped windshield cowl in front of the passenger window can also let water in and it can work its way toward the kick panel fuses. Sometimes if a windshield is replaced broken clips on the A pillar pieces also allow water ingress leading to these issues. Obviously all of these are moisture related and need to be ruled out as well as checking for sensors and such...
 

Ken2006

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Yes the car was sitting outside but the interior is completely dry in the passenger foot well. I pulled the trim from below the door and checked the harness channel as well, everything is dry as a bone. I did have a lot of water ingress a year or so ago due to plugged evaporator case condensate lines and fixed the problem then, this is what prompted me to pull the trim in the passenger foot well under the door to take a look. I read another post here about some wiring splices in that harness and also checked them for signs of corrosion, everything looks good, splices are solid. Really stumped at this point as to what might be causing this problem. This may require a trip to a Dealership for resolution, something I really don’t want to do.
 

bbyer

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You may as well try a hard reset per the instructions below. It costs nothing, does no harm and sometimes fixes computer related stuff.

For me, most often it is the radio that is acting up after a battery change out or something where the battery was disconnected, probably before all had gone to sleep.

Re the tranny messages, to me that is a brake light switch but since your 3 was sitting for awhile, that draws the battery down and the software gets upset, hence try the Hard Reset first. It is also a clean hands stand up kind of task.

Link re changing the brake switch:

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5082


Hard Reset Instructions



In brief, to start the hard-reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition. This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed. (I find that it is often a good idea to have the driver’s door window rolled down and the key in one’s pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)


Also, when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers, also my watch. Have the car keys in your pocket.

Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.



The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen.


(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.) I have the Traxide dual battery system installed.


Connect the negative cable end to the positive cable end. (NOT to the battery.) To do this, you will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to be able to touch each other.

Hold all together for about a minute or more, (suggest at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere. Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order.

Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.

Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.

Start engine and hopefully none or at least fewer warning lights and the radio when turned on plays music rather than being silent.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.

You can also now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.

This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure. http://bit.ly/14WXXR1


http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19547.html


This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.

http://www.disco3club.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=3374
 

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