Tread depth & differential question
- Thread starter cperez
- Start date
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cperez
Full Access Member
I have read in various places that if you install two new tires on a vehicle, they should go on the rear. This always struck me as counterintuitive because it seems like you'd want the most grip on the front where the steering input occurs. Anyway I'm going to put them on the rear unless I hear some great reasoning to do it otherwise.
I had planned to install only one of the new tires on the rolling set and put the other new one on my spare rim. Then it occurred to me that I should get both new tires into the daily wear cycle asap.
FWIW, DiscountTiresDirect received my order on Monday late afternoon and the tires are scheduled for delivery on Wednesday afternoon. The place where I found the rim (WheelsTiresandMore, which had it for $193 vs the next best price of $245) received my order around the same time and it will also arrive on Wednesday. Not bad for free shipping from both sources and standard ground delivery via UPS.
I had planned to install only one of the new tires on the rolling set and put the other new one on my spare rim. Then it occurred to me that I should get both new tires into the daily wear cycle asap.
FWIW, DiscountTiresDirect received my order on Monday late afternoon and the tires are scheduled for delivery on Wednesday afternoon. The place where I found the rim (WheelsTiresandMore, which had it for $193 vs the next best price of $245) received my order around the same time and it will also arrive on Wednesday. Not bad for free shipping from both sources and standard ground delivery via UPS.
cperez
Full Access Member
The new Conti's were installed the day after they were delivered to my home. On the way to the shop, I felt a shudder that seemed to be speed-dependent. As I got closer to the shop, it subsided but I mentioned it to my mechanic. It almost felt like I had a flat spot on one or more of my tires, but it was more of a soft but rapid thumping shudder.
After all tires were mounted and balanced, the tech took it for a test drive and brought it right back to the lift. He had felt the same thing I did. Upon closer inspection, one of the wheels that had not been removed was found to have quite a bit of mud still stuck to the inside of the rim. I had missed it when powerwashing the undercarriage and rims after taking it offroad. The mud had the effect of throwing off the balance of the tire, hence the shudder. Once they scraped it off, it rolled smooth as silk.
Something else to keep in mind: spend extra time cleaning the inside of all rims after wheeling.
After all tires were mounted and balanced, the tech took it for a test drive and brought it right back to the lift. He had felt the same thing I did. Upon closer inspection, one of the wheels that had not been removed was found to have quite a bit of mud still stuck to the inside of the rim. I had missed it when powerwashing the undercarriage and rims after taking it offroad. The mud had the effect of throwing off the balance of the tire, hence the shudder. Once they scraped it off, it rolled smooth as silk.
Something else to keep in mind: spend extra time cleaning the inside of all rims after wheeling.
TheWidup
Full Access Member
Yeah. Especially in winter. I had snow freeze inside of wheels on another ride once and it was miserable until I found an open car wash to power wash it out.
For those off road in the mud adventures after installing new tyres or mounted used tires during rotation time. Wash clean the outboard and inboard sides of the wheels and rims. Use a wax, I prefer Mirror Glaze's pure carnauba wax to the outboard sides of the rims protecting the paint finish from metallic brake pad dust which turns into rust causing etched clear coat damage. Also much easier to wash the brake dust off later. The inside of rims a light damp coating only with a small patch rag not a plastering application with Reese's Teflon trailer ball lubricant. Leave this light coating on and not wipe off. This non-stick coating allows for easier mud and dirt removal off the rims with a water nozzle blasting between the spokes.
In the past forum readings to coat the rims with WD 40, yeah right it's supposed to displace water but also evaporates away.
Had to ask, with all this mud submarine diving do the brake calipers still float freely in their caliper support brackets plus how many miles between rotor replacements?.....~~=o&o>......
In the past forum readings to coat the rims with WD 40, yeah right it's supposed to displace water but also evaporates away.
Had to ask, with all this mud submarine diving do the brake calipers still float freely in their caliper support brackets plus how many miles between rotor replacements?.....~~=o&o>......
cperez
Full Access Member
Good advice on the maintenance routine to protect the rims. When I bought this pre-owned vehicle it had some existing pitting to the rims. My mechanic thinks that the previous owner ran the brakes down to metal-on-metal and that the clearcoat and even some paint was burned off through overheating or possibly even a shower of sparks. Getting them all refinished is on my to-do list, but from a distance it is not a huge cosmetic flaw (and I am pretty particular). When I bought a new matching rim for my spare, it felt a little dumb putting a pristine wheel under the vehicle, but it would have stood out like a sore thumb otherwise.
Brake operation is fine and has been inspected routinely. I don't take the vehicle offroad all that often but I do enjoy the occasional trail ride just to maintain a little street cred! I will make sure to keep an eye on the muddy rim situation and also caliper operation as part of the regular cleanup process after each trip.
Re mileage, when I first had the vehicle inspected, the brakes passed but it was noted that they were close to limits. I drove it for another 12 months and they were still within spec. Both front and rear have been replaced (rotors and pads) within the last few months. I track mileage on services via the mycarfax app and will see how long the brakes last.
Brake operation is fine and has been inspected routinely. I don't take the vehicle offroad all that often but I do enjoy the occasional trail ride just to maintain a little street cred! I will make sure to keep an eye on the muddy rim situation and also caliper operation as part of the regular cleanup process after each trip.
Re mileage, when I first had the vehicle inspected, the brakes passed but it was noted that they were close to limits. I drove it for another 12 months and they were still within spec. Both front and rear have been replaced (rotors and pads) within the last few months. I track mileage on services via the mycarfax app and will see how long the brakes last.
I can understand how that sounds right, but tire squish has no impact whatsoever. The circumference of the tire does not change based on tire pressure or load.
Now that I think of it you are correct. I guess a flat tire has a cat tread effect but rotational distance would be the same.
Would a tire that is inflated high "stretch" it's circumference? Like an old truck tire tube?
Would a tire that is inflated high "stretch" it's circumference? Like an old truck tire tube?
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I'll add my 2 cents into the mix. I was told that Land Rover has a bit more sophisticated system where everything is dynamic and electronically control diffs and transfer case. Unlike the mechanical days, if they're off by X amount it can cause some serious damage to the entire drive train over time. Obviously there's some kind of range that it should be within, but it sounds like your spare tire isn't too far off from your worn tires. You should be good.
I learned that I should rotate my new spare in, but that's after I realized the tread difference was too significant. At that point I changed up my wheel size to a more readily available tire sizes in remote areas. Cause NO remote shops will carry or stock 19's, except for that 1 shop with street tires. Now, I rotate my 2 spares into the mix every 3 months for even wear (way too often by the way).
I learned that I should rotate my new spare in, but that's after I realized the tread difference was too significant. At that point I changed up my wheel size to a more readily available tire sizes in remote areas. Cause NO remote shops will carry or stock 19's, except for that 1 shop with street tires. Now, I rotate my 2 spares into the mix every 3 months for even wear (way too often by the way).
Good question. I want to say yes but if I do, does that mean that the under inflated tire 'shrunk' relative to the normally inflated tire? If a tire goes flat in the woods will anyone pump it up?? We're getting over my pay grade, lol.
