LR4 wheel studs?

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Quijote

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I beg to differ Quijote as the older Swiss made Brown & Sharpe have been the "gold standard" for over 60 years. Not owning or supporting modern day Brown & Sharpe calipers being farmed out to other countries still maintaining "Swiss Made" on their dials. We were issued Mitutoyo's back in the day (1972) working production in the machine shop manufacturing cardiograph machines, vacuum abortion machines, BBE glaucoma air puff probes. The companies monthly dial caliper replacements went down to 28% vs 63% replacements before when they issued us Helios calipers. Forget about them issuing Brown & Sharp calipers unless you brought your own. Sill have both B&S in Imperial and metric. Talking 47 trouble free years used almost daily with my personal machining projects says something about B&S's durability.
Several B&S calipers, Starrett and Helios vs the Vernier calipers I also use are all treated like my left and right nuts......~~=o&o>.....

B&S could well be the best. I'm not going to argue that. But I've worked for 20 years at and with many engineering companies and visited countless suppliers and customers and Mitutoyos are everywhere (R&D, Metrology labs, QA labs, etc.) and not a single complaint and I hardly saw B&S. Ours have not been handled kindly and have never been out of calibration on the yearly re-certifications. I also have nothing but good things to say about Starrett (own many Starrett products) and have a set of inch dial calipers and have toured their factory (talk about historic and being frozen in time! - which also explains their cost).

So perhaps B&S have a historic reputation and are excellent, but for whatever reason Mitutoyo seems to have taken over from what I have seen. Just checked and prices are also comparable to Mitutoyo, so it is not a cost issue. I just spent $500 on 3 digital calipers for engineers in my group and didn't even look up B&S. I have worked for 12 years in engineering R&D at company that designed and manufactured world-class testing and instrumentation equipment. When we incorporated third-party measurement gauges we only spec'd Heidenhain or Mitutoyo, and for lasers we used Keyence.

It seems I am not alone. https://www.reddit.com/r/Machinists/comments/2uzcug/brown_and_sharpe_vs_starrett/
 

BeemerNut

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Never content to limit our geekouts to oil, tires, rotors/pads, lift rods, etc., we boldly tackle calipers. Love it.

Quijote, I fully agree with your "LOL" reply.
Sad how many people go through life having a low or zero mechanical ability like a "Soccer Moms" never enjoying the world of fabricating, machining, repairing anything mechanical to their personal standards. Even scratch building and machining a project idea that ultimately turns in a failure it's the knowledge and satisfaction of making it yourself that others could not even fathom where to begin in make things. Sad boring life it must be, glad i'm not in that group. Let the chips fly on my Bridgeport and lathe.
BTW the 1972 and 75 era Mitutoyo dial calipers I still have, they both kept popping off their (plastic) crystals several times. Lost one, super glued the other. It must be a problem with older Mitutoyo calipers i've been told. They're used when machining dirty gritty or corroded items, B & S for clean machining, "sunday tools" dad would call them.
Worked at the Lawrence Berkeley Lab plus the Livermore Rad Lab, I did see their high tech electronic measuring instruments in clean rooms. Not too practical for general home use being i'm not into fabricating electron microscopes as a personal hobby LOL! Great field your in, take care. Carl....~~=o&o>.....
 

BeemerNut

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Does anyone have any information on wheel studs? With my new setup I'm inclined to look for extended wheel studs or at least have extra wheel studs out on the trail.

With that said, the only info I have is that you can't buy them. The OEM pitch is M14x1.5, and the lug nuts is a combo conical angle is 60* at the end with a flat washer head. The ONLY replacement is to buy a complete wheel hub for replacing broken studs.

If anyone can give me the details on the studs, like knurl diameter, knurl length, UHL (under head length), overall length, etc... please let me know.


djkaosone, did you get squared away locating replacement studs?

Word of advice, stay away from tire shops and impact guns. I've seen more broken off with them by any installed or removed manually. Best one a tire shop impact gun operator breaking off three studs and being stopped by a fellow worker before breaking off the the last two.
This on the driver's side of a Chrysler having LEFT HAND THREADS.
Or take the monkey on the impact gun not paying attention removing lug nuts with the gun selector in the tightening position impacting away.....~~=o&o>......
 

djkaosone

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I haven't made the leap to do it, yet. The closest thing I could find are 2015-2019 Mustang extended wheel studs.

I'm going to try 1 out first and let you guys know.
 

BeemerNut

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Check into ARP as they have a vast selection of wheel studs besides other fasteners. ARP head bolts are the best you can find for any racing engine applications. I run ARP cylinder head studs in the 4.6 powered 95 D1 with blown head gaskets a thing of the past. They are far superior to LR's OEM head bolts. Give ARP a shout and see if they can help you with your wheel stud problems. It was a big mistake LR switching to the 5 x 100 mm bolt pattern vs 5 x 165 mm pattern which puts less of a strain on the wheel studs.
BTW, you mentioned "knurl diameter and knurl length", it's actually a spline not knurled studs. ARP stud example https://www.carid.com/arp/wheel-stud-kit.html.....~~=o&o>......
 
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djkaosone

'11 LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8
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Check into ARP as they have a vast selection of wheel studs besides other fasteners.
Yup, I've already did. They quickly emailed me back to figure out what the LR4 knurl diameter is, to find a similar part for the replacement. I used ARP back in the days for my race cars and I love them. Unfortunately, they don't have anything for the Land Rovers.
 

BeemerNut

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I forgot which LR forum member I replied to several months ago, I mentioned Dorman studs and he's back running again. I recall he was told he had to remove the hub just to remove the broken stud. No big thing, drift it out with a air hammer on the vehicle. Install and pull in the replacement stud with a spacer or stacked washers which he did a 5 minute operation.

I prefer a long threaded nut with a lot of threads vs any short cone nut of fewer threads. Best to locate the stud splines into the old hub spline bore vs forcing and broaching in new splies into the hub. Take an old extra LR lug nut, cut the stainless cap off then machine away the unthread portion. Machine off some material fof the cone end for another flat contact area. Lube the threads and splines before pulling the stud in. It's a spline not a knurl to not confuse parts people. Had to ask, why do you need longer than factory studs? Planning on only adding a thin wheel spacer like 5 mm for tyre clearance? Wheel spacers require minimum thickness to be above the standard length studs. Nutted to the hub studs first then the wheel nutted to the wheel spacer's studs. This is a stronger system vs sandwiching a spacer with longer studs as an aggressive clutch operator can shear the studs off......~~=o&o>.....
 
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djkaosone

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@BeemerNut Thanks for the advice on seating the new stud.

Had to ask, why do you need longer than factory studs?
I changed my wheel setup to fit BMW style 130 wheels on my '11 LR4 the right way, with parts made for the Italian LR4. With the new setup, I find the factory wheel studs to be way too short for my liking and need longer wheel studs. Or at least extra studs to take on the trail, IF I can't find extended studs.
 

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