Blown head gasket

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gsxr

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Read instructions CAREFULLY on any bottles of "head gasket sealer". Some require the system to be drained and flushed of all anti-freeze, and have the sealant added to the system with only water... then run to operating temp, then drain, and refill with antifreeze mix. Some of the K&W products require this.
 

Bogwhoppit

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I would read the amazon reviews of that head gasket sealer before dumping a bottle into my coolant. Its a temporary fix that might F other things up.
 

gsxr

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I would read the amazon reviews of that head gasket sealer before dumping a bottle into my coolant. Its a temporary fix that might F other things up.
Yes - definitely do your homework first. And remember that some people are trying to fix issues that very obviously cannot be cured with something in a bottle (i.e., unrealistic expectations).

Side note - if there are concerns about the sealant not mixing well, partially drain the system, pre-mix in water or 50/50, and pour the pre-mixed sealant. Never done a cooling system drain/refill on the LR4 specifically so I'm not sure if there's anything unique to be aware of on the LR4.

:2in1:
 

BeemerNut

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Normally, I hate fixes-in-a-bottle. However when faced with a $12k estimate, you have almost nothing to lose by trying. I know one pro shop has reported excellent results with Bar's Leak HG-1, they have fixed multiple vehicles with similar symptoms as yours. Money back guarantee if it doesn't work, and you are only out a couple hours of labor to try it. If you do try it, follow the instructions closely. At a minimum it should let you drive to the dealer:
https://www.amazon.com/Bars-HG-1-Blown-Gasket-Repair/dp/B003RGIWO0/






2)
If the head is slightly warped it may need to be machined flat. If it's badly warped, which isn't likely, it would need replacement. o_O

ANY OHC engine, machining a "warped" head will allow a flat mating surface head to block, block has a less chance of warping vs a head.
So now you have two flat surfaces (head and block) for proper head gasket sealing but now have warped out of alignment cam journals being not dead nuts straight concentric aligned journals. Totally stupid waste of money and effort unless you want a near future kaboom!
Any OHV engine the rocker shafts can tolerate a little bit of "warped head" out of alignment problem with the hydraulic or hard cam lifters requiring valve adjustments back into spec.

Did any of these so called Rocket Scientist repair facilities ever perform a compression bleed down test to pinpoint which bank has the problem or problems of both banks after making a steam engine out of this vehicle? Anyone ever read their oil as well engine temp gauges while driving? Idiot light, how did it get that name?
Over a year ago I (we) picked up a pair of 5.0 litre heads for just $250 a pair before tax and deposit off a clean mechanically running low mileage LR that was smacked. Pulled the plugs looking even color, oil clean (what was left after wrecking yard drain), no sludge internally only slight varnishing a "go for it" removal and install on a friends LR4. I got roped into his bad vehicle purchase adventure with so far a success still running 20K miles later.
Blown head gasket with ant-freeze washing down the Cats destroys them cats not alone the O2 sensors, think about their added cost to your repair bill plus gaskets and head bolts but run only run ARP head bolts on my engines be it the old push rod D1 or drag race engines.
Engine swaps can be a good thing, last resort usually have a 30 day return exchange, labor's on you always.......~~=o&o>........
 

BeemerNut

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It really kind of is.

Makes you appreciate a cast iron block just a little bit more.

No, a lot more appreciation of stable strong cast iron. Still running a 1964 cast iron block and heads on a stroked 427 Ford FE engine out to 496 cu/in EFI build of 23 years ago running down the strip once in a while. That would be 8,140 litres of fun Hp and Tq for those that only know of liter displacements vs cu/in.Long live the "antique" push rod 95 D1.....~~=o&o>......
 

gsxr

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WOW - LR4 engines are almost 3X more expensive than LR3s. Must be supply/demand forces.
There are quite a few used V8 engines available from various salvage yards in the $6k-$8k range if you search car-part.com. And a few optimistic sellers asking $9k-$10k for used engines.

There are a handful priced at $12k but those are listed as "reman engine".
 

djmalachi

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Just wanted to post a quick update for everyone. The Blue Devil slightly improved the situation but didn't solve it. It is a sad day indeed - I've been told by several mechanics a head gasket replacement itself is going to run $5-8k and that it's a 50/50 shot if it'd even be successful. The used engine prices above seem about right from what I can tell, but who wants a used engine from salvo when it's likely blown as well. I've been told $14-16k for a solid replacement.

Enjoy your LR4 while it lasts everyone.

Can't help but think LR did this on purpose (aluminum block, plastic coolant parts) so that they can close this chapter on the "LR3/LR4" series. The Disco is dead as far as I'm concerned. This will be my third and final one.

Here's hoping the Defender isn't a pile of garbage.
 

morrisdl

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I understand the frustration, but AL and plastic is ubiquitous across the board for all manufactures. Cheap and light seem to be opposites of durable.
 

djmalachi

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I understand the frustration, but AL and plastic is ubiquitous across the board for all manufactures. Cheap and light seem to be opposites of durable.

"Cheap and light" is not what made me fall in love with Discos and as you said, is the opposite of what LR should be about. :-(
 

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