Thinking about buying an LR4 for Offroading/Overlanding

djkaosone · Aug 1, 2019

avslash said:
Anybody know the lug nut specs for the LR4

There is NO information out there that'll help you. The specs are M14x1.5 knurl diameter 0.570" and about 40mm in length. No company out there makes a M14x1.5 in this knurl diameter. Then you start looking at the knurl diameter at the 50mm length, you'll soon find yourself looking at 1/2"-20 studs and lug nuts. At this point, you want to make sure the tensile strength of the stud is strong enough.

Since I had M12x1.5 lugs for my Lexus, it's more universal to me, I went down the route of M12x1.5 knurl diameter 0.565" at 50mm. ARP makes it for Mitsubishi Lancer 100-7717. I went the inexpensive route with going 10.9 bolts from ebay in the same dimensions. The tensile strength of a 10.9 grade stud is the same for M12-M16. From what I was told, the 0.005" or 5 thousands of a diameter difference will be ok. I also tried the 0.560", although it didn't spin while torquing it down to 104lbs/ft, I didn't want to chance it. For me the better option was M12x1.5 for being thicker or has more girth than a 1/2"-20 with the knurl diameter 0.565".

That's what I did and you can either do this at your own risk or find a better option. Good luck with it!

avslash said:
Anybody know the lug nut specs for the LR4

Lug nuts are M14x1.5 with a combo conical and mag type head made specifically for LR wheels.

Getting extended studs aren't really an option with oem specs.

DWillyEffect · Aug 1, 2019

ryanjl said:
Check this thread:

https://www.landroverworld.org/thre...ew-questions-before-i-pull-the-trigger.40141/

To answer your questions:

-Can you modify the front and rear bumpers/add a winch?

Yes

-About the suspension, can you convert it to coil springs instead of airbags? If not, can you modify the air suspension to act as if it always has a 2.5/3 inch lift and go higher when offroad?

Yes to both, but you don't really want to do either, unless you go full-bore and install strut spacers and rods, and are ready for the accompanying issues.

-Can you get smaller, 16/17 inch rims to fit a tire with a bigger side wall? What size tire do you recommend?

No. Smallest wheels that will fit (without swapping brake calipers and rotors) are 18" wheels.

-How does the traction control work? None of the models I've seen online has rear locking differentials so I'm not sure if it's something I would need to add or not. I've always heard LR's traction control is top notch but I'm curious what owners think about it.

You can google search this.

-I've been mainly looking at the older V8 models. Is there any advantages to the newer v6 models(besides what I've heard is a slight mpg gain)?

Not really any advantage, beyond the updated headlight signatures. If you go with a V6 model, the HD package is a MUST if you want to go off road. Without the HD package on a 14 or newer, you don't get a low range option on the center diff. On 13 and older, the center diff came with low range standard.

-Are there still options for roof racks/tents?

Yes.

What are some of the issues with lifting it?

I've done some research on the traction control, that's kind of why I ask. A lot of the videos on Youtube nowadays blur the line between the words "review" and "advertisement" in the sense that they present traction control systems as this miracle technology that lets you conquer any terrain while a lot of the videos show them testing it on trails that are less challenging than my gravel driveway. That's kind of how I found this forum when I was searching for info on locking differentials.

DWillyEffect · Aug 1, 2019

djkaosone said:
Yes, you can add a hidden winch or get a bumper to do it. Here's my post on the hidden winch install, https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/terrafirma-hidden-winch-install.29560/.

I seriously looked into this, but lead me to a dead end when your suspension is tied to everything to the vehicle. The LR3s offer a suspension bypass module that allows the air-to-coil conversion. Unfortunately, the LR4s don't have this option. AB said it was too integrated into the system to bypass and they didn't move forward with producing it.

Yes, see above.

I've been in a situation where I would love to have a rear locker. However, it engages and disengages automatically via computer driven. ONLY the HD models have them. Traction control works by means of switching the traction setting and knowing which setting does what. It's really about experience and apparently I don't have much. Hahaha.

The only advantage in my opinion is better mpg. Owning a v8 and driven a v6, I can tell you that the torque is much better on the NA v8 and you feel the power vs waiting for the v6 to move the heavy vehicle. It kind of feels like a turbo lag without the turbo. Yes, it's supercharged, but the v8 feels better. The electronics are better 2012 and up.

If you're going down this route, either get a model with the rear half roof rack rails or none at all. The full rails have no real purpose and have very minimal options. With the half roof rails or none at all, there's quite a few options. I have the Frontrunner Outfitters (FRO) rack, but would love to have the Prospeed. I'm also running a FRO RTT, because it's the lightest one out there at 88 lbs.

Thank you for the detailed responses!
Regarding the lift, I found this youtube video. I don't know if this product is available in north America:

I dont know anything about it or really much about air suspensions in general.

avslash · Aug 2, 2019

DWillyEffect said:
What are some of the issues with lifting it?

I've done some research on the traction control, that's kind of why I ask. A lot of the videos on Youtube nowadays blur the line between the words "review" and "advertisement" in the sense that they present traction control systems as this miracle technology that lets you conquer any terrain while a lot of the videos show them testing it on trails that are less challenging than my gravel driveway. That's kind of how I found this forum when I was searching for info on locking differentials.

You will get the best overall performance in compression and damping by remaining as close to the factory geometry as possible.

Moving away from that geometry starts to adversely affect handling Dynamics rather quickly.

That said, there are tons of people running around daily with a simple rod lift.

IMO, if if you want to run lifted full time, the best way to do it is with the Proud Rhino strut spacers. These, in conjunction with the rod lift raise the truck 2.5 inches, but maintain factory normal air pressure in the struts. Your suspension geometry is still at factory offroad, but the ride is not compromised nearly as much. There are some other plusses and minuses with this route, but that is the gist.

avslash · Aug 2, 2019

If you want a rear locker, find a vehicle with that option from the factory.

There are evidently issues trying to adapt the ARB Z locker to the end of the LR4.

The front ARB locker works as advertised.

DWillyEffect · Aug 3, 2019

avslash said:
If you want a rear locker, find a vehicle with that option from the factory.

There are evidently issues trying to adapt the ARB Z locker to the end of the LR4.

The front ARB locker works as advertised.

When browsing on autotrader or cargurus, is there anything that is a giveaway for an LR4 that has a locking differential?

avslash · Aug 3, 2019

DWillyEffect said:
When browsing on autotrader or cargurus, is there anything that is a giveaway for an LR4 that has a locking differential?

On the 2010-2013 the HD package included a full size spare and the rear locker. Only real way to tell would be to take a look under and see if the electrics for the locking mechanism are present on the diff, as someone could easily have swapped in a full size spare at some point.

2014+, look for the presence of a low range switch on the center console. Those year models, the low range was an option that also included the rear locker when selected.

ryanjl · Aug 3, 2019

avslash said:
On the 2010-2013 the HD package included a full size spare and the rear locker. Only real way to tell would be to take a look under and see if the electrics for the locking mechanism are present on the diff, as someone could easily have swapped in a full size spare at some point.

When looking at a listing online, you can also run the vin. Someone has posted on here before how to do it and what to look for.

On the '14 and newer, it's easy to just tell by looking at the interior photos.

allegro · Aug 3, 2019

I just went through the hunt for an LR4 with HD package 18 months ago... the method I used was to look up the VIN through the JLR website called TOPIx. There are lots of features on the site that aren't available with a basic account, but you can get what seems to be a full as-built spec sheet showing the installed options for a given VIN.

1. Register an account on TOPIx - https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com
2. Search for the VIN, and click the not-so-obvious "View all vehicle details" link in the top-right
3. In the next window, if you click Print you'll get a nice one page pdf showing everything. Or you can click over to the "Minor Features" tab and scroll/search for "LOCKING REAR AXLE - E DIFF"

When I was looking at trucks, I found the combination of the TOPIx one-pager and a carfax report to be great tools for vetting and then inspecting / test driving. Attached is an example TOPIx pdf.

kibbi57 · Aug 12, 2019

Suspension: Check out Johnson Rods

Thinking about buying an LR4 for Offroading/Overlanding

djkaosone

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