From what I gather LR4's still used the flat washer w/ parallel bodied lug nuts for their alloy rims which also has a cone seat end used when installing a "steely" spare wheel which has cone seated stud holes. Ugly looking sticking out but gets you home.
https://www.partsgeek.com/bqmcz4g-l...utm_content=MP&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Bing&gb
No problem centering any rim of cone seat rim design, the same with an alloy rim with the flat washer LR lugs securing the rim to the hub with the rim's Hub Centric centering with the hub's Hub Centric lip. Even adding a 1/8" thickness or less wheel spacer still allowing rim to Hub Centric engagement your good relying on the Hub Centric for alignment as well weight stress transfer.
You by any chance installed wheel spacers to your LR4?
Lucky8's LR4 Terrafirma's spacers as example;
https://www.partsgeek.com/bqmcz4g-l...utm_content=MP&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Bing&gb
If running them like I purchased from Lucky8 for the 95 D1 they use cone seated nuts securing the spacers to the vehicle's hub. The spacer's ID is larger diameter than the hub. Now all wheel stresses are handled by the wheel studs vs directly to the spacer then to the hub. On a good note spacer centering is maintained by the cone seated nuts. Alloy rim to spacer's Hub Centric lip not possible at all being the spacer's Hub Centric lip segments, 5 of them now fit perfectly between the rim's clearance gaps around the stub axle flange wings and retaining bolts. Bolt head flats must face outwards following hub circumference no bolt head points sticking out. Add metric wavy washer for proper torque plus bolt flat location. Only way to keep the rim centered now by the parallel bodies of the flat washer lug nuts which have loose clearance inside the alloy rim's lug nut bores.
This clearance with rim's weight pulling downwards (gravity), tighten lug nuts, rotate rim 180 degrees, loosen lug nuts again. Rim falls downwards until contacting the lug nut's opposite parallel bodies again. This lifting the rim full up and down amounts to 1.97 ounces imbalance difference using flat washer parallel body lug nuts now shaking wheels all four.
Rim loading stresses to Terrafirma wheel spacer on the 95 D1 is now going through the spacer's wheel studs not one of the five concentric segment Hub Centric helping with centering or transfering load stresses.
Yup a shaker as others mentioned with stock alloy rims until making stainless shim rings of the correct thickness that wrap around every lug nut for a nice "slide fit" the lug nuts through the rim bores now centering the rims with these Terrafirma 30 mm wheel spacers. Turbine smooth down the highway.
With your "steely" rims I would of mounted and torqued each of them down on a hub, added a magnetic base with arm "almost touching" the rims spinning then checking to see if they are round, egg shaped, eccentric, have a **** or flat spots at the tyre seating area radially. Second checking the beads inboard and outboard for variations in rim width as well axial rim wobble.
Steel rims walk all around from the centers being welded besides the bead and circumference under stress and warping "WITHIN FACTORY TOLERANCES" one can only hope.
Take a worn out sloppy ball jointed tie rod ended suspended "Chebbie" Pick 'Em UP with properly balanced, true running rims and tyres, (normal bad shocks) it will glide down the highway without your wheel shaking problems. Fear any highway expansion joint putting you into a high speed wheel wobble and a ditch.
BTW, I find that LR's hubs without discs a 90% chance come out of balance, disc's a lot better requiring balancing corrections......~~=o&o>........