CEL: Barometric Pressure Sensor

harbinger808 said:

Scott, once again big mahalo for your help! ill get to this today and post my experience and results.
Went to the LR dealer and bought the sensor since i figured i do both jobs at the same time just incase. fairly straight forward. i didnt disconnect the 2 hoses going to the throttle body as i was able to clean everything needed. Suffice to say, it was black as nite in there Followed your steps with the GAP tool and started the engine up. MUCH better!!!
Now to figure out the weird vibrations when i turn left...

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Glad to hear it. Your vibrations could be a couple things. Start with wheel bearing check and a look at you cv joints on your half shaft. Could be either. If I’m not mistaken, some people report when a wheel bearing is going bad, the sound actually comes from the opposite side of the way you are turning (the wheel that gets the most weight). For safe measure, check both. And only go with a Timkin bearing, if that’s it. Easy change.

Lots of info on both bearings and half shafts on here to reference. Good luck!

after the recommended diy fixes and the engine running fine with no CEL anymore or error codes, i now have low coolant warning and noticed that the engine is indeed leaking something. question for everyone, could i have messed up a coolant hose while doing the throttle body and MAP sensor? my water pump was replaced by dealership a year ago. mahalo in advance

harbinger808 said:

after the recommended diy fixes and the engine running fine with no CEL anymore or error codes, i now have low coolant warning and noticed that the engine is indeed leaking something. question for everyone, could i have messed up a coolant hose while doing the throttle body and MAP sensor? my water pump was replaced by dealership a year ago. mahalo in advance

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It is possible that you hit a line. Do you see where it’s coming from? You are not too far from the water pump return and the crossover pipe sits right below the intake manifold.

If you broke the crossover pipe, it was preparing to fail anyway (so consider yourself a bit lucky that you weren’t on a long haul). The crossover pipe will leak off the back of the engine and over the top of the transmission if that’s what you broke. If off the front, check the return to water pump. That will get brittle also and break.

This goes without saying...don’t drive it with a leak. These things hate to overheat. If you have a slow leak, it can turn catastrophic fast.

This am I saw “low coolant” warning. Got her home and she was definitely leaking somewhere. Replaced cross over pipe and sure enough it had a crack. Put everything back together after checking my work.
Wife turned her on and I could see it spewing coolant from where in the vicinity of the water pump. Suffice to say, I’m stopping here and having her towed to dealership. Did some digging in past invoices and saw that less than 2 yrs ago they replaced water pump and all associated tubing and seals. Hopefully it’s all under warranty!

harbinger808 said:

This am I saw “low coolant” warning. Got her home and she was definitely leaking somewhere. Replaced cross over pipe and sure enough it had a crack. Put everything back together after checking my work.
Wife turned her on and I could see it spewing coolant from where in the vicinity of the water pump. Suffice to say, I’m stopping here and having her towed to dealership. Did some digging in past invoices and saw that less than 2 yrs ago they replaced water pump and all associated tubing and seals. Hopefully it’s all under warranty!

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So, there’s a small hole on the water pump that is a return. The hose design has been updated and pressure fits into the water pump. I snapped mine when I did my water pump (very brittle). Id start there if it was leaking. easy fix.

Part number and how do I get to it?...

harbinger808 said:

Part number and how do I get to it?...

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Upper thermostat hose kit

LR049989 LR045238

can i access all this by retaking the air plenum back off?... or do i need to take belts off?

harbinger808 said:

can i access all this by retaking the air plenum back off?... or do i need to take belts off?

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No belts. Crossover needs to come back out, but otherwise pretty quick. Make sure the pressure fitting seats correctly. Mine leaked badly until I got it seated.

I'm going to use this thread as impetus and get off my ass and call my local race/fab shop and see if they think they might be able to replicate the crossover pipe via custom welding or making one out of woven stainless.

I'm less concerned about cost, than eliminating a likely failure point that can toast your block without much, if any warning, in the middle of nowhere.

If anyone is interested, I will report back.