Top Hatch Won't Open - What to Replace?

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mshale

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I had my top hatch fail on my '13, and I'm not sure what to replace. I've fairly certain that it's the actuator, as I can pull the cable and get it open. The cable is still attached at both ends. I can hear the noise when the button is pressed, but the hatch won't open. I have gotten the trim all removed, and ready for replacement after repair.

I noticed that Atlantic British sells a "kit" that includes the actuator, latch, and dust protector. Is there a need to spend the extra money on the latch? I would assume that the latch is targeted toward the LR3, but I don't really know. What would make the latch itself fail?

The local dealer quoted $900.00 for the repair as they said the only way to do it is to physically break the panel. I found the guide on AB, so whatever I get will come from them. Their video was for the 3, but the 4 is almost identical back there. The carpeted panel is much more difficult to get outta there, but it's doable.
 

Fuji4

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If you can get the hatch open try greasing the latch receiver. Worked a charm for me. As long as the actuator is firing. You may have to check that your wire didn’t pop free of the actuator. Was not a problem in my 14 but I know they changed the design for 14.
 

mshale

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Yeah, the actuator is physically working, but doesn’t sound strong enough to pull the latch open.

I don’t think anything has come loose because I can pull up on the cable and pop the latch. Most that have something come off has to push in line with a tool to pop the latch.

I’ll try and clean the latch part. It looks clean, but who knows. Thanks for the tip.
 

mshale

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I wonder what the possibility of upgrading to the 14-16 actuator and latch is. Now that I've gotten into this one, I can tell it has been replaced before. Seems like a 50,000 mile part. lol

I have a video of the actuator. It isn't strong enough to pull itself in even with no load on it. It's also slow to return when manually pushed in.

 

Fuji4

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Yeah that’s dead. Mine fires hard but the latch was sticking.
 

mshale

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Not sure if you fixed your issue, but I did this after my first experience and never again. I replaced my actuator, but now I have a manual override from the inside with this mod.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...rade-prevent-rear-door-failure-for-25.159873/
Yep, I found your thread when searching for an upgrade path. I ended up doing the poor mans version since it’s only to be used in the event of a failure.
I used some parachord and 1/4 fridge water tubing to make my own. The rope is looped under the L-shaped part of the cable so if it comes off, I should still be able to get it open. Ignore the misaligned trim, the photos were taken during test fitting.

E0423AC5-708D-4BA0-B69E-2CBAB6D72819.jpeg


13286FC2-5F65-4BCF-8938-B1A6D31B2F1E.jpeg
 

Ian Morrison

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I wonder what the possibility of upgrading to the 14-16 actuator and latch is. Now that I've gotten into this one, I can tell it has been replaced before. Seems like a 50,000 mile part. lol

I have a video of the actuator. It isn't strong enough to pull itself in even with no load on it. It's also slow to return when manually pushed in.

Looking at your YouTube clip it’s definitely your Actuator at Fault. When you buy the new one you will see the difference in force it apples when you open the upper Tailgate.
 

mshale

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Looking at your YouTube clip it’s definitely your Actuator at Fault. When you buy the new one you will see the difference in force it apples when you open the upper Tailgate.
Most definitely. I’ve replaced it already and can tell a huge difference. It was probably going when I bought it but I didn’t know what it was supposed to be like.
 

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