Fuel leak and mechanics won’t let me drive it

Socialseb83 said:

Ouch!!! Well i hope my warranty cover that! Then i can tell my mechanic to get all over that. Win-win!

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Yes, if it starts sounding like a Diesel engine, they are on the way out. Best way to keep it from happening is do 5k-7500 mile oil change intervals. I have not heard of one instance of failure at that interval...although I’m sure there are cases out there

Socialseb83 said:

Ouch!!! Well i hope my warranty cover that! Then i can tell my mechanic to get all over that. Win-win!

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It does...that’s what we were pointing out...you’re in good shape

Based on what y’all see here, anything else i should try to get done under this warranty while i still can?

Socialseb83 said:

So apparently my car has a fuel leak on the top of the tank. Mechanic shop said they cant even let my wife drive it out cuz it could catch on fire.
Assuming there is a hole in the top of the tank, or some associated part, how much could this end up costing me? I dont want to get taken advantage of. also, anything i need to know going blind into this situation? I say that because i’m in Arkansas, while this is going on in Houston with my wife in that vehicle. I have attached the images that the mechanic shop sent me.
i purchased an extended warranty on the vehicle. Is a leaking fuel tank the sort of thing warranties cover? I barely got the car like a month or two ago. Any advice will be appreciated. Especially any advice that may help reduce the costs of possible repairs. Thank you guys!View attachment 10184 View attachment 10185 View attachment 10186 View attachment 10187

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that “oil or transmission” leak is an oil leak, no question. Not a huge concern. Most likely the vacuum pump for the brake system. They have a tendency to leak. Mine is leaking now...it’s on the bottom of the engine. Leaks about 1/2 quart every 5000 miles which is acceptable for a rover... it also could be a valve cover leak, but judging by the position, seems to be the former. If your warranty will repair it, I’d go for it. Also, I’d provide the warranty to a trustworthy mechanic. Have them check every system that’s covered. I’m sure they can find some things that need attention.

Socialseb83 said:

Elaborate. Remember i’m new to this. Should i ask for my timing chain to be replaced?

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Others have already responded and at any rate, if your timing chain isn't making obvious noises that it's slapping around in there, you're not likely to be covered for that expensive job until it needs it. I commented because timing chains have achieved infamy among owners. Take the advice that's been offered and keep up to date with your oil change intervals...5K miles between changes to be safe.

Well written coverage, timing chains but not what causes those timing chain problems, the chain tensioner slippers the problem but not listed. I bet should you have approval of timing chain replacements they would reinstall the old slippers, no worries you'll be back again soon.

Any NTSB safety issue recall reports involving your LR's fuel tank? Sounds like a ripoff strealership being a woman with a disabled vehicle also out of state at the mercy of their stealership. If not covered by extended warranty I would get that puppy towed out on flatbed to the nearest independent LR repair shop. Repaired has to be much cheaper than that stealership reducing your out of pocket cash losses. Hell there must be a LR owner in the area that can lend a hand looking for the leak which like mentioned before possibly a hose has failed then a way cheaper repair overall. Win win!

With that leaking and wet plastic gas tank your gambling driving it once known and documented by LR so no burned to the ground replacement LR for you. That's a rather nasty looking leak vs just a hint of gas fumes after topping off the tank as the D1 era LR's tanks had issues with the top of the tanks splitting open. A safety notice or recall if you want to call it that with NTSB involved I recall years ago on my 95 D1 possibly early D2 owners. Possible free tank replacement but only after their inspection, "passed inspection no replacements".At that time LR would also tell owners it's a good time to replace the in tank fuel pump which they offered at a $379 LR price, customer pays for fuel pump replacement. LR recovering the gas tank replacement cost and labor obligation by sticking the customer with a overpriced fuel pump which is a standard General Motors replacement pump costing between $49 and $63 which is also an easy and cheap DIY replacement pump. I never had them inspect my tank after performing a tank pressure check same procedure the stealerships performed by the information from a service tech writer and 'ex LR mechanic friend had told me several years ago when that issue was announced. Original fuel pump at 143K, spare in the trunk, no worries easy DIY replacement as i've done three on past D1 owners already. Hope it's resolved and your covered by the warranty as your already out by their copay fee. End of novel.....~~=o&o>......

My mechanic fixed the problem and even cleaned all involved parts. Said he always cleans parts that way if i ever take it back to him and he sees spots, he knows they’re new and not old spots.
It was a broken fuel pump and my warranty covered it! All good now on that front. My new issue is being discussed in another post.

I plan on following the recommendation for 7500k oil change frequency. What oil do you guys recommend?

Robbouchard said:

I plan on following the recommendation for 7500k oil change frequency. What oil do you guys recommend?

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That’s covered in many other discussion boards (I say that in the nicest possible way). It’s all a matter of preference and everyone has an opinion.

biggest part is frequency. Lots of folks get geeked out over oil and some really good discussions on this board previously

scott schmerge said:

That’s covered in many other discussion boards (I say that in the nicest possible way). It’s all a matter of preference and everyone has an opinion.

biggest part is frequency. Lots of folks get geeked out over oil and some really good discussions on this board previously

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Ditto the above. There are multiple threads on this forum discussing the subject ad nauseam. The really short version is to use the viscosity recommended in your owner's manual, and only full synthetic (although I don't think you can get those viscosities in anything except a full synthetic.) And still change no later than 7500 miles under normal service; more often with severe service / towing / etc.

I like changing at 5k just because you'll know when it's due without having to check records... 100k, 105k, 110k, etc etc.