Supercharger Rattle?

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Fuji4

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Forgot to mention, the SC oil was like turkish coffee. At only 75k. The new stuff is clear.
 

Fuji4

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Also here is a picture of the fill/drain plug. Had a hard time finding it as most m112 applications drain on the snout C4848856-9BEF-4F15-9AD3-16746F2FA5A9.jpeg
 

Fuji4

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And last snag before completion is that the new coolant Y pipe apparently is a new design. It does not fit the elbow and crossover that I had replaced a few thousand miles ago. So I had to go back to the dealer and drop another hundred $ on a NEWNEW crossover.
Here is a picture of the design difference. Apparently the old one is more of a two piece sandwich construction. And the new one is more of a unified mold process. Parts guy said most failures were along the seam of the old ones.
33DF005C-9000-43DE-84DD-282401C34FDC.jpeg
so in sum if you want the new mold process you need to buy both the Y pipe and the crossover. And don’t forget that bleeder plug because it does not come in the new pipe.
here’s to hoping the new pieces last the life of the car.
 

Fuji4

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Final note on this job is that there was next to no oil in the supercharger. Took all 8oz of oil and almost nothing came out. Lesson here being you may want to check your own oil level as my truck only had 75k miles on it and was way low.
 

Michael Gain

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Awesome job brother. Please let us know any tips/tricks for rear crossover with s/c still on. Also, how did you separate the snout? The other forums talk about it being a super pain..
 

zski128

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And last snag before completion is that the new coolant Y pipe apparently is a new design. It does not fit the elbow and crossover that I had replaced a few thousand miles ago. So I had to go back to the dealer and drop another hundred $ on a NEWNEW crossover.
Here is a picture of the design difference. Apparently the old one is more of a two piece sandwich construction. And the new one is more of a unified mold process. Parts guy said most failures were along the seam of the old ones. View attachment 10262 so in sum if you want the new mold process you need to buy both the Y pipe and the crossover. And don’t forget that bleeder plug because it does not come in the new pipe.
here’s to hoping the new pieces last the life of the car.

Interesting that they made a change that will make that part more reliable...hopefully. Any idea when the update part was introduced? Haven’t heard anyone else mention the updated part before. I have a 2016 might have to go take a peak under the hood.
 

Fuji4

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Interesting that they made a change that will make that part more reliable...hopefully. Any idea when the update part was introduced? Haven’t heard anyone else mention the updated part before. I have a 2016 might have to go take a peak under the hood.
Not sure. Seems recent.
 

Fuji4

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Awesome job brother. Please let us know any tips/tricks for rear crossover with s/c still on. Also, how did you separate the snout? The other forums talk about it being a super pain..
Had to remove the oil filter stand and water pump to get the snout off. No big deal really. Rear crossover job is helped by looking at a picture of the back of the engine which I found here on these forums somewhere and printed out.
 

Michael Gain

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Not physical access to the bolts. I was wondering how you pried it apart. I saw a couple different methods mentioned, and wondered what method you found to work the easiest. Thanks!

Had to remove the oil filter stand and water pump to get the snout off. No big deal really. Rear crossover job is helped by looking at a picture of the back of the engine which I found here on these forums somewhere and printed out.
 

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