Diy timing chain

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ryanjl

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When I had my timing chain job done at the dealer last December, they put the Gucci Castrol 0w-20 in when they were done. I think that's all they use for gas engines now.

I changed my own oil about 5,000 miles later and used 5w-20 Motul. To me, it seems the engine runs a little quieter with the 5w, but it could be all in my head.
 

ktm525

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Someone who knows more than me can definitely correct me where I’m wrong...As I understand it the 0w applies to when the engine is cold. Theory being that the oil kicks around the engine without much resistance when it needs it most (on startup when most wear occurs). 5w oils predate full synthetics and I think Land Rover service now only puts 0w20 in even the older 5.0 v8 engine with the 5w20 spec. Again, new to the entire oil scene. Lots of good discussions on this site.


Yup but then it gets complicated. The bigger the "spread" the more additives required to get the oil to behave like the end points. As long as the 20 portion on the OW-20 stays that way and does not shear down to a 15 or 10 then you should be fine. Make no mistake 0W-20 being pushed is only for two reasons: 1) Simplicity for dealer (all gas engines use) and 2) fuel economy.

The push for fuel economy in the LR4 made things much more complicated than they had to be; stupid eco start/stop and a down power supercharged six. All for a 1 MPG gain.
 

cperez

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I think Land Rover service now only puts 0w20 in even the older 5.0 v8 engine with the 5w20 spec.

Thanks. I have read that here and was also told as much by one of my local dealers. I follow the oil discussions to a degree. Even there it seems that there are questions about 0w and whether LR is going that way for MPG gains at the expense of engine wear (one of many conjectures). It's one of several LR-related questions that don't have a clear answer...at least to me. I shouldn't expect a black and white answer to a question that comes down to the nearly infinite nuances to any particular use case (driving style, climate, miles/yr, age of engine, related maintenance, etc.). Still fun to learn and discuss.
 

Red Top Engine

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I was going to ask how you did yours.
The first couple times I just pulled the pin and press as hard as I could but no click. The blades could still be moved back a little. I thought this was acceptable as oil pressure would provide additional tension when the engine was running. But every time I would manually turn the crank, the chain would jump.
I'll try the c-clamp idea. Haven't reinstalled the tensioner yet. Need to disassemble the vvt and clean the filter. The oil that was dripping out of there was pretty dirty and sludgy. And I just did an oil change less than 1,000 miles ago.

There are discrepancies between the Land Rover & Jaguar manuals on how to set and install the tensioners. In speaking to Gareth from Atlantic British, he indicated pulling the pin would suffice. LR manual indicates you have to pre-set them then pull the pin. Jaguar on the other hand indicate one has to pre-set, pull the pin and apply force until a second click is heard. Tonight I will take apart and install new tensioners using the Jaguar method since the the truck is running sluggish after running perfectly first 50 miles of using Atlantic British/Gareths method. Note, I replaced everything on that engine (VVT's, rods, bearings etc) but the same VVT errors pop up doing the timing job twice on same engine, leading me to believe not setting the tensioners correctly is the culprit.
 

Huy Tran

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There are discrepancies between the Land Rover & Jaguar manuals on how to set and install the tensioners. In speaking to Gareth from Atlantic British, he indicated pulling the pin would suffice. LR manual indicates you have to pre-set them then pull the pin. Jaguar on the other hand indicate one has to pre-set, pull the pin and apply force until a second click is heard. Tonight I will take apart and install new tensioners using the Jaguar method since the the truck is running sluggish after running perfectly first 50 miles of using Atlantic British/Gareths method. Note, I replaced everything on that engine (VVT's, rods, bearings etc) but the same VVT errors pop up doing the timing job twice on same engine, leading me to believe not setting the tensioners correctly is the culprit.
Let us know how that works out.
I took a break from working on the darn thing due to the holidays.
I was able to finally put enough leverage on the blade to make the tensioner click and hold the chain without any slack. But when I went to turn the crank manually, the cams sprockets slipped again. I cannot figure out how that's possible as there's no slack at all. The teeth and chains don't show any wear or rounding.
I'm really tempted to reassemble everything and cranking it up and hoping that oil pressure will provide additional tension. Just don't want to risk damaging the head.
@Red Top Engine are you a Honda guy?
 

Red Top Engine

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@HuyTan, I am a Honda guy indeed.. among other Japanese cars. The cam sprocket slipped? Once you lock the camshafts snug using the special tool, there should be no movement of the cams when installing the VVT phasers. Make sure all three chains are correctly seated on the crank sprocket.
 

blake aiken

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Does anyone near Denver, CO have the tools I could rent from you? If anyone is willing to ship them that would be awesome too. Would also potentially buy them from any of you guys done with the job. Much appreciated
 

blake aiken

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Is this the crank damper puller you guys are using?

c5ecb891ce09d4965ced852a0b377c11.jpg
 

blake aiken

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This is everything I’ve bought to have on hand for future service.
- engine timing tool kit
- fuel pump timing tool
- fuel injector slide hammer
- fuel injector seal calibrator


Is it possible to remove/install the crank bolt in park w/ parking brake + flywheel locking pin?


f8cb372c4629c6d3a7aad50cb3fcaedc.jpg
 

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