I need to replace my fuel pump!

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Scott97217

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Greetings,

I have a 2005 LR3 HSE. Over the last year or two, everything seems to be breaking on it. Exterior door trim pieces are falling off, alternator went out, sun roof drain tube is now leaking into the passenger compartment and shorted out the key fob, suspension compressor is about to give out, and NOW I am pretty sure the fuel pump just went out.

It has plenty of cranking power and and tries to start, but doesn't seem to be getting fuel. There is 1/4 tank in it currently. When it first went out, it would start for about two seconds and then die. It did this several times, and now won't crank over at all. I figured it started initially because there were gas fumes in the line, but those are gone now.

I checked all the fuel related fuses, and am getting ready to run a check on the relay. I can't seem to find the fuel pressure check valve in the engine compartment to see if it squirts fuel. I also can't find a diagram of where to access the fuel pump, and I don't want to completely strip the interior to get to it if I don;t have to. Based on what I saw underneath the car, it looks like the tank sits under the passenger side, and I think I would only need to pull the carpet back on that side to access the pump from the top (i have no way of dropping the tank). I figure I will also have to remove the seats on the passenger side as well to get at it... is this correct?

I was also wondering since the sunroof drain has corroded the key fob relay that sits in the wiring harness that runs along the bottom of the passenger side perhaps the water also screwed something up with the power running to the pump as I would assume the wiring to the pump runs along that same track?

I am a bit of a novice when it comes to these things, so any advice would be appreciated. If anyone can point me towards an LR3 specific tutorial, that would be amazing.

Update: I managed to fold the middle seat forward and pull the carpet back a bit to reveal some padded sticker things. Could the fuel pump be under them?

fuelpumplocation.jpg
 
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Scott97217

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I took another look at the engine and found what i believe is the fuel pressure check valve. It was a stem like a bicycle tire on the fuel rail with a blue cap on it. I turned the engine to ON, then depressed the valve stem and it shot out fuel. Tried this twice and did it both times. Then, I tried to start it and after several seconds it did fire up, then immediately shut off again after running for about one second. So, I assume the system is priming, which would make me think that maybe the fuel pump isn't dead? Below is a photo of the blue capped valve I depressed.

fuelcheckvalve.jpg


So, is my fuel pump dead? Could it be a clog in the fuel filter? In the line? Could the water infiltration issues that killed my key fob relay be doing something? Oh, one last thing, when I began investigating the issue, I found a dead mouse under the engine cover. He had made a nest using the foam from the bottom of the engine cover. He had also slightly chewed some wires, but they are still in tact. I do need to tape them up, but I wasn't sure what effect it would have on the fuel system.
 

Houm_WA

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Very good chance that that little guy chewed up some wires affecting your engine, maybe disrupting spark??? Your fuel pump is inside the fuel tank!
 

Scott97217

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I hadn't thought of it disrupting the spark. How should I test this?

I knew the pump was in the tank, and I am just not sure how to access it. I have seen a video (
) that showed the same issue I am having with it cranking but not turning over as being a burnt out connector in the fuel pump (minute 5:13). This was in a range rover though, not an LR3.
 

Houm_WA

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Okay, wasn't sure if you knew. I think I've read that the RR has pump access from inside but that the LR3 does not. I'm not 100% on that. My brother had an LR3 and a RRS at one point that both had rodent issues and both had symptoms like yours. I don't remember the precise wires needing replaced but I think it was the coil wires on the engine side. I've asked him via text. When he gets back to me I can update you.
 
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Scott97217

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Okey dokey. Well, that will save a bunch of time ripping the interior apart looking for access if there really isn't any.

So, do you think that because I am squirting at that valve that my pump is probably okay? Otherwise, I will have to find some sketchy way to jack it up on a slight hill to drop the tank. I REALLY don't want to do that.

I will do a thorough examination of all the wires in the engine compartment and see if that fixes things. I will also be pulling the wiring harness on the passenger side to repair the key fob issue, and maybe I will see some other corrosion issues that are causing me problems. I have already ordered a new drain tube for the sun roof gutter.
 

Houm_WA

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I'm not sure about the pump but given the rodent and wire issues I'd definitely go through all the electrical and rule that out first. IIIRC the pump is a real pain in the ass and unless you have small hands and long arms to reach it you are better off replacing the tank wholesale.
 

remember5

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The only way to access the fuel pump on the LR3 is to drop the tank. Literally there are like 8 bolts and 1 electrical connector and maybe 4 pipe connectors, its' really not as bad as it sounds, I pulled mine out twice while I was replacing the sending units and the fuel pump. I'm going to attach the sections of the manual that deal with this. I would request 1 thing and that is when you drop the tank and open the cover will you please take some pics of the inside, I have replaced mine and am at an intermittent starting situation, same conditions you are having except it starts almost every time but some times it takes several hours of intermittent trying to get it to start and I'm concerned I have hooked one of the internal connectors up incorrectly. Also I bought a Beck Arnley aftermarket pump, not the factory LR and am concerned about that as well. I don't have the fuel rail ****** so I can't test the pressure and am really not sure where to look next. The manual discusses a valve in one of the lines but I don't seem to have that valve either, mine is a 2006 4.4.
 

Attachments

  • Description and Operation.pdf
    545.9 KB · Views: 176
  • Fuel Pump Removal.pdf
    108.7 KB · Views: 194
  • Fuel Tank Filler Pipe Removal.pdf
    115 KB · Views: 109
  • Fuel Tank Removal.pdf
    350.7 KB · Views: 166
  • Specifications.pdf
    17.7 KB · Views: 146

Kjohnster

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This might help... the long winded version is below as to why I found this, if interested :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbaCq9ELu-U
****
I've also had some odd fuel supply issues with my 06 LR3. First clue - did not start, and I thought that I had plenty of fuel (1/3 of a tank according to the gauge). After the initial panic of trying to jump the car and checking for faults with my GAP tool and finding nothing I actually started thinking... good crank, but no catch and it sounded like it was starved for fuel... Luckily my step-dad had a couple of gallons handy and it fired right up once I added them. OK, it was a fluke, I WAS pointed down hill at a pretty severe angle. Since then I've never an issue starting, but then again, I also make sure I've got plenty of fuel and if at all possible, I park pointing up hill. But since then, I've 'run out of fuel' going down hill with 1/4 tank. I was on a fire trail and the engine just quit. Again, I was lucky and had 10 gallons in jerry cans on the roof with a siphon, but, it's clear something's wrong with in the fuel system. So far my solution is to fill the tank as soon as I get below 1/2, but once I can figure out a way to get a weekend and a lift - changing the fuel pump is in the cards i fear.
 

remember5

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I had watched that video before and tried the pump only replacement he did but the ****** size of the replacement unit did not match my connectors and I returned it and bought the aftermarket Beck/Arnley complete assembly. Below is the pic I sent the company showing the different ****** size.

upload_2020-1-1_10-51-51.png
 

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