Supercharger Rattle?

Michael Gain said:

Awesome job brother. Please let us know any tips/tricks for rear crossover with s/c still on. Also, how did you separate the snout? The other forums talk about it being a super pain..

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Not too bad. Wrestling,rapping,etc. not really stuck.

@Fuji4 Newer to the supercharger setup - what maintenance intervals for oil change on these and can you describe the sound leading up to your snout swap. 2014 LR4 with 115K miles and just did some major maintenance and would like to keep up better than previous owner did to get/keep this in tip top.

LR4FoxsSake said:

@Fuji4 Newer to the supercharger setup - what maintenance intervals for oil change on these and can you describe the sound leading up to your snout swap. 2014 LR4 with 115K miles and just did some major maintenance and would like to keep up better than previous owner did to get/keep this in tip top.

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well eatons recommendation is as follows :”Eaton
FAQ for Superchargers
Q: How often do I need to change the oil in my supercharger?
A: The sealed oil reservoir in a supercharger is designed to last the life of the vehicle. Changing the oil is not recommended unless you suspect contamination, leakage, or other issues like bearing failure. Also, if your vehicle has an abnormally heavy duty cycle, such as racing or towing, you could consider changing the oil at regular intervals such as 20k, 30k, 50k, or 100k miles depending on usage.”

that being said I would say our trucks are heavy and if you drive in the city or tow anything or push the car or have it modded like mine that would qualify as heavy duty use. Considering mine was almost dry at 70k I would say you would be best served by checking the level at least every 35k miles and a change every 50k-75k depending on use. The oil is cheap and checking it is easy. Why not?
I view it the same way I do the transmission. They are also considered lifetime fluid items. But really the zf units benefit from a change maybe every 40-50k.

Well I hate to be posting here again but I have a new issue. Or maybe it is a continuation of the old issue. After the snout replacement things were fine no issues. Then a few days ago I was on the highway accelerating and I got a total loss of power. Engine was moving through the range of Rpms but it was totally anemic. Ok so I stop the car and shut it off and restart it. Things go back to normal. Weird. Then a day or two later it happens again. This time I keep going but the car is anemic and has a hard time holding 80mph. The rpms keep going higher trying to hold speed as it keeps a lower gear. Then I get a plume if smoke out the rear it starts dumping smoke and I pull over to the slow lane and slow down. It is still smoking marginally. It throws a CEl at this point as I get to my destination. Then after an hour I start it and drive to my Indy. He pulls the codes. It has a supercharger boost problem code. But the smoking is gone. And it sounds normal. He tells me to keep driving it and see if anything happens.
So today after some normal city driving I start hearing a rattling. It is loud and sounds like maybe the rest of my supercharger gave up the ghost. Not sure though yet. Can’t get in until Monday.
Here’s the video.

Yeah I would not drive that anymore. Aren't you running a smaller pulley for more boost? That Eaton sc is marginal at stock boost.

Well based on my preliminary research I am thinking it’s a faulty bypass valve. Not sure how likely it is but it would make sense given the loss of power and the restart causing it to work again. Seems like it’s either mechanical getting stuck or that the boost was too high for the tune or something. Have to circle the wagons tomorrow and get to the bottom of it.

Agreed. Faulty bypass valve or boost leak. Smoke sounds like a byproduct of running rich. I hope that it's an easy fix, brother!

Update. Got the unit off the truck and up to superchargers online in Simi Valley. They rebuild a ton of Eatons. Here is the bearing noise. https://youtu.be/glHOyO1Z2dc
These guys are legit and will get to the bottom of the issue. May or may not need new vanes. We will see.
here is the unit on the bench at their shop. mans a picture of the set screw for the bypass valve that my Indy mistakenly left half way out. This may have caused the butterfly to stick fully shut (boosted all the way) which during throttle off may have caused the ecu to go into limp mode. This would explain my half power issue which went to normal on restart. Now we still have to see what went wrong internally. Might have blown a seal and ingested it or something. Not sure yet.

bypass stuck fully closed or fully open would cause problems. I thought there were oil fills front and rear on these since they have gears and bearing at both ends?

Strizzo said:

bypass stuck fully closed or fully open would cause problems. I thought there were oil fills front and rear on these since they have gears and bearing at both ends?

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Only one fill and drain. At the rear of unit. This unit is the Eaton TVS1320