Gas Tank Filler & Check Engine Light & Gas Cap Light

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

dngvt

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2015
Posts
6
Reaction score
2
So I have this problem with my 2103 LR4. From time to time my gas tank will not fill properly, and it will cut off as if full when it is barely filled. At the same time, the check engine light goes on and off from time to time, and sometimes the gas cap is loose light comes on too. Whenever it does I check the cap and it is perfectly attached and tight. sometimes the gas gauge jumps around at the same time, sometimes it doesn't.

Then these issues go away for a while. And then return in some odd combination or sequence, but always with the gas tank not filling correctly.

So what is this? I've tried searching for this issue and can't find anything.
 

cperez

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Posts
1,720
Reaction score
794
Location
Bethesda, Maryland, USA
Just yesterday I was reading some forum posts about skid plates, and how a damaged gas tank resulted in an LR4 with a max range of 150 miles. This would not necessarily explain all of the symptoms you mentioned, but is there a chance you have some damage to the bottom of your tank that might have jacked up the baffles, or tweaked the sensors in some way?
 

dngvt

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2015
Posts
6
Reaction score
2
Cperez,

Thanks for the idea. It was looked at and the bottom is all fine with no impact damage anywhere. I think the issue is somewhere in the filler neck, or the sensors that control the cutoff but have no idea how to go about assessing that.
 

Kenneth Kahan

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2016
Posts
10
Reaction score
6
Location
San Diego
A faulty DMTL pump will cause the light and message. This an emissions device that looks for leaks but only under certain conditions which is why yours goes on intermittently. It will not check if the tank is more than say 3/4 full. It will check only after the vehicle is shut down after being run for a prescribed time. And the cycle has to be run a number of times before it will turn on or turn off to indicate things are ok. None of this though has a connection that I know of to the filler problem, however I would check the filler vent that is probably connected to the DMTL system for obstruction. If air can't get out of the tank then gas can't get in.
 

abmty1

New Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2016
Posts
2
Reaction score
2
I had the same symptoms with my 2011. I purchased it used with a Land Rover service history. Previous owner reported same symptoms. Land Rovers corrections said it was a loose DMTL pump and could not duplicate it when they fueled it up.
Mine eventually thew a code, I believe it was PO442 but it relates to a small evap leak. A sucking sound developed from the gas cap when driving and at idle. It became more frequent so I decided disconnect all of the evap lines and blow a very low psi of air maybe 5 psi through the lines. I could not find a blockage. I decided to change the DMTL pump and purge valve. No luck. I really felt a blockage was somewhere so I took the evap system apart again but this time I blew a high psi of air, 25 psi if I recall directly into the charcoal canister for 10 minutes off and on while shaking it. It was still in its carrier but bolts removed. The light and suction from gas cap both went away. It has been about a year. I would guess the the previous owner was topping off the tank and the overfill line was directing the excess gas to the canister and caking the charcoal. Just my guess. Beats replacing the filler neck that 2 mechanics hypothesized. I hope my process, though it may be flawed helps someone as I could find nothing when I search how to fix the suction happening.
 

ReconPFDR

New Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Georgia
I just bought a 2011 Rover Sport. When I went to fill it up two days later, same problem: 1/2 to 1 gallon at a time. I tried all possible positions and angles from which to hold the pump.
Is there any media out there on the line clearing/ charcoal canister clearing specific to rovers? This is my first Range Rover and while I’ve done a fair amount of work on TJ Jeeps, I don’t really know much about this.
Thanks!
 

avslash

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2011
Posts
1,255
Reaction score
1,101
Location
The Lone Star State
I have had my 2012 LR4 since new.

It has sporadically exhibited similar symptoms. It will randomly throw a "small evap leak" code, or "check gas cap" code on the order of once every 3 or four months. Dealer replaced the gas cap under warranty, but was never able to replicate any other faults.

I just clear it with the IID tool, and drive on.

My truck did develop a crack in the sealing ring on top of the fuel tank that required replacement. That might be worth checking for you.
 

CaliDisco

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Posts
78
Reaction score
25
Location
Los Angeles
Time to resurrect this thread as I’m experiencing all of the same problems described above.
I replaced the DMTL but am still getting the sucking/ clicking sound at the filler. I’m also having a difficult time refueling with the fuel nozzle cutting off after a couple of gallons.

Any help on clearing the lines, recommendations on replacement of the charcoal canister, or easy fixes would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

Ubanghi

New Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Alright gang... hoping to resurrect this thread for some minor assistance with the same problem. I have EXACTLY the same issues as the OP. The wife's is a 2011 LR4. However, I can't figure out for the life of me how to get the tube/line from the tank off of the vapor/DMTL canister. Took me 20 min just to find it and I can get the connector off that goes to the valve. The other, for me, is a right angle/elbow that doesn't have a clear pin or clip or anything to release. Looks like maybe a hand tightened screw fitting like you might have on a garden hose. Any ideas? I'd like to get access to this hose to try to blow it out, before going to any great length to get the canister out, change it, or change the solenoid valve.

Also, is it typical to get at this this from underneath with the spare removed? I could have sworn somewhere I might have seen access via the inside luggage area from above. The bolts holding it in place are coming down from above the metal shelf it sits on.

PS: I'm something of a DIYer but with no real car experience. I'll try most things once though.

Thank in advance.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
36,223
Posts
217,594
Members
30,473
Latest member
OnoA
Top