Reliability

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Quijote

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...it became terribly expensive to maintain after I put over 150,000 miles on it. When my RR starts having consistent issues, I'm selling it.

That's the case with any luxury car, though. I can't imagine anyone with large sized German sedan or SUV not making that same statement.

Who would ever buy a Land Rover (or BMW/MB/Audi/etc) as the value choice for a 200k mile life?
 

avslash

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That's the case with any luxury car, though. I can't imagine anyone with large sized German sedan or SUV not making that same statement.

Who would ever buy a Land Rover (or BMW/MB/Audi/etc) as the value choice for a 200k mile life?


That is most definitely conventional wisdom.

I will say, though, that after owning the LR4 and a GLS450 following a long string of domestic SUV's, that the foreign ones, to this point (90K, and 50K miles respectively), have not proven to be any more trouble prone than the domestics were at comparable mileage.

Having said that, one of my chain tensioners probably just hit the garage floor...
 

Mason Courtney

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Once things start happening though, LOOK OUT.

The ONE thing these things do best is disappoint.

Could they build a better vehicle? Of course.

Are they using inferior materials (rubber and plastic components, primarily)? Definitely.

Look at your key fobs. It's the same crap under the hood.
 

ktm525

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Once things start happening though, LOOK OUT.

The ONE thing these things do best is disappoint.

Could they build a better vehicle? Of course.

Are they using inferior materials (rubber and plastic components, primarily)? Definitely.

Look at your key fobs. It's the same crap under the hood.


My 2010 fobs look brand new. What has happened to yours?
 

avslash

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I don't disagree with those sentiments, but the reality is pretty much all manufacturing has followed that path.

I'm getting really close to pulling the trigger on a new John Deere tractor to work some land I recently acquired and I am nervous as hell to get the thing and compare it to the 1983 tractor it will be replacing.

The 1983 model was called "the zombie tractor" by my girls, because even though it looked like hell, it just flat out refused to die. I fear the new one will a be disappointing in that regard.
 

Rene Koesler

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Even though we're supposed to be in lock-down at home, I've driven somewhere almost daily but NOT where there are people! I go eagle watching and just driving down "I wonder where that road goes" roads and even though I keep waiting for the LR4 to go to s..t, it's been running flawlessly for the last three months! Must be something wrong with it! When it did act up in January, it showed some "warning lights" but they went away after stopping and turning the vehicle off and then starting again. Well, I hope you are all doing OK, and let's hope we all survive this mess we're in!
 

DaytonaRS7

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im surprised people are comparing this car to a honda or toyota.
Besides the capability of the LR4, it is a different class than the run-of-the-mill japanese cars.

Compare the LR4 with Eurpoean or German cars, and its cost of running is right in line. My Audi (RS7) eats brakes, tires, and has a rather demanding maintenance schedule. Dealer price for Brakes is $4k all around every 30-40k miles. Tires are $1800/set every 20k. if my maintenance wasn't pre-paid as a bundle, it would be about $3500 from new to 45k miles.
Besides the brakes, im sure every other Euro or German car is comparable.

If you expect to drive a car and barely maintain it, the Honda/Toyota is the way to go. but you get a cheaper car, that is "boring".
Once you move into any luxury brand, maintenance is key to long term reliability. And unfortunately the maintenance tends to be more $$ than cheaper cars. gotta pay to play. and turning a wrench yourself doesnt help.

for example ive replaced the following by myself:
spark plugs - $70
Front rear coolant pipes - $160
Coolant change - $30
vacuum pump (leaking oil) - $200
PCV valves - $30
engine and cabin air filters - $30
Replace front and rear diff, transfer case, trans fluid - $120
front lower control arm and new bolts (+ alignment)- $160 (+150)

If you were to ask a dealer to do that, it would be at least cost to $4k. Ive spend about 10 hours total for the above and spent under $1k.
 
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ktm525

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You have done all that work in 10 hours? It would take a LR dealer 30.
 

DaytonaRS7

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You have done all that work in 10 hours? It would take a LR dealer 30.
about that...

spark plugs - 2 hours
Front rear coolant pipes - 3 hours
Coolant change - included with the coolant pipes
vacuum pump (leaking oil) - 1 hour
PCV valves - 20 minutes..and thats a gross overestimate
engine and cabin air filters - 10 minutes
Replace front and rear diff, transfer case, trans fluid - 2 hours (drain and fill 2X for the tranny. did not drop the pan)
front lower control arm and new bolts (+ alignment)- 2 hours. not including alignment. i also got lucky that my bolts weren't seized.

maybe im a fast worker? or have a good set of tools that lets me reach places that techs would normally remove alot of surrounding parts to access?
The room around this engine and drivetrain makes it a dream to work on compared to my audi.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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I will say that these trucks are solid for a good 75,000 miles. After that things will wear. At 90,000 I had my tranny rebuilt which was an expensive 6,500 (still needs a new e-clutch damper/Accumulator but I’ll get it for free because of warranty). This won’t happen often this was a rare occurrence that happened to me. At 100,000 I did the compressor for 1,000 as well as the front shocks for 1,300 at 103,000. At 110,00 I did sway bar bushings and control arm bushings leaky fuel gasket engine mounts for 3,000 still have to do a valve cover gasket and a new a/c compressor and that will probably be another 3000. (Note I live in California so some seals wore because of the extreme heat as well as the A/C running every single day those will be uncommon things that happen. The transmission was just pure bad luck)
 

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