Probably dumb frame horn removal question
- Thread starter Michael Gain
- Start date
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I'd say, yes. You don't want an open gap with any edges that can catch the tire. Imagine it drops to the bump stops and the steering is cocked to one side and catches, you're done. Why take the risk.
mbw
Full Access Member
My understanding was that the frame horns are to keep the wheels from entering the cabin in the event of a crash. They are part of the design of the crush aspect of the frame. If you remove them you are just reducing the safety of that part of the frame.
avslash
Full Access Member
I would not leave them open.
That would be a big, gaping hole waiting to get packed with mud, water, etc.
That would be a big, gaping hole waiting to get packed with mud, water, etc.
Expand your ideas not limit them. I was raised on a work bench from age three, later in a machine shop.
Besides welders add a lathe and Bridgeport mill to really expand you abilities making parts not manufactured, a vision becomes a reality vs just a wet vision becoming a lost illusion. Being a gear head also helps. Made an 1 1/2" tall intake spacer off an idea for the 4.6 powered 95 D1 now a hoot to drive and way better than as stock 4.6. Well a chip plus several other mods yet passes Kalif. smog test. Handling was first, then power upgrades not accomplished without custom DIY parts machining.
Take welding classes, even get certified, it helped me at work being called as a welder. BTW get the highest amperage welder you can afford, lowering amps is ok, needing more when already at max amp output really sucks. Able to Tig 1/2" thick aluminum in one pass, 3/8" Mig one pass was my requirements. Not your Home Dump Off toy welders. Get owner owned bottles vs lease, over time saving a ton of money. Seven 250/260 cu/ft owner owned bottles besides 150 cu/ft nitrogen for home brewing. Bigger bottles costs less per cu/ft than smaller bottles to refill......~~=o&o>......
No, you dont. it isnt structural there so JB welding a small piece of metal is fine.. Hell, its your car.
Michael Gain
Full Access Member
iSurfvilano
Full Access Member
The early LR3 had that bolted on... Once you remove it then it looks like the LR4 when cut off.
iSurfvilano
Full Access Member
Can you post a pic? Thanks
Michael Gain
Full Access Member
Lucky! I do prefer the LR4 even with its quirks
Of course! Please see attached. Basically, I cut the top and bottom support, and cut a 1/2 inch section out of the external side. Then, I notched the far side and just pounded it over. It still have a ridge down the center, so I notched that as well and then pounded it flat. Painted it black and called it a day.
On a side note, I re-routed the rear heater lines, but not over the wheel well. I was able to route them behind the body mount and sway bar bushing, then behind the air strut before finally attaching to the rear attachment point.
Of course! Please see attached. Basically, I cut the top and bottom support, and cut a 1/2 inch section out of the external side. Then, I notched the far side and just pounded it over. It still have a ridge down the center, so I notched that as well and then pounded it flat. Painted it black and called it a day.
On a side note, I re-routed the rear heater lines, but not over the wheel well. I was able to route them behind the body mount and sway bar bushing, then behind the air strut before finally attaching to the rear attachment point.
