Rotating 5.0L Engine Manually

avslash · Jun 1, 2020

I'm about to pull the intake to replace the front/rear crossovers, so I'm thinking I might buy the needed bits and walnut blast the intake ports/valves while I am in there.

Anything to keep in mind on these when rotating the engine manually to close the intake valves on the cylinder being blasted?

I'm assuming:

1. apply parking brake
2. set transmission to neutral
3. pull plugs to relieve compression
4. breaker bar on crank pulley and spin

Am I missing anything?

Anybody find a shop-vac adapter on ebay or otherwise that is a reasonable match for the intake ports on our cylinder heads?

Edward2595 · Jun 1, 2020

When I did (walnut blasting) mine I bought one that was for a mini cooper. Maybe from FCP euro but I don't remember.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...ing-tool-kit-mini-gen-2-turbos/81292208038kt/

It was a super messy job even with the tool. Cover as much of where you don't want the shells to go as you can. Also, tape off small openings like gas lines, etc. I also manually removed some of the carbon using a long but small screwdriver which really helped to remove the stubborn bits.

Also, I think they say to rotate the engine clockwise (normal as if you were going to start it) as it keeps the tension on the chains if you might have bad tensioners but i'm not sure on that (it's what I did and it still running).

mbw · Jun 2, 2020

Yes, what he ^ said. Don't rotate the engine the other way or you can skip the chain and loose timing. Seems like a scredriver is a bit agressive, could score something, but I am wondering how I will get this done in a few years when I need it. I'd rather have someone do this job, even though I have don't literally everything else on my truck myself.

blake aiken · Jun 2, 2020

I’m in the middle of doing the timing chain job and I just used brake cleaner, rags, wood skewers and dental picks to clean up the valves. It took a few hours but got the majority of the gunk out. Not perfectly polished but no more carbon warts.

Edward2595 · Jun 2, 2020

mbw said:
Yes, what he ^ said. Don't rotate the engine the other way or you can skip the chain and loose timing. Seems like a scredriver is a bit agressive, could score something, but I am wondering how I will get this done in a few years when I need it. I'd rather have someone do this job, even though I have don't literally everything else on my truck myself.

Screwdriver could score if used too aggressively. I used the small long screwdriver after 90% of the walnut shell blasting. I didn't do this blindly. I ended up with carbon on the back side of the valve stem that cupped it like a 'c'. I used the screwdriver to pop it off and then vacuum it up. I then blasted it again with the walnut shells. I was gentle on it and had zero issues. I was laying over my valves in the engine bay visualizing each and every valve. This was a long and tedious process rather than a bearish and aggressive one. All in all, this was how I did mine and a suggestion of what worked for me but proceed at your own risk.

Huy Tran · Jun 4, 2020

I used an old piece of coolant hose that I had laying around. It was almost a 90 degree elbow so it worked out great. I put a hole in the elbow to feed the blasting pipe through, then added some window insulation foam about a inch from the tip. The rubber hose molded somewhat to the intake port and the foam kept about 98% of the media from blowing out. The hose also happened to fit the shop-vac perfectly.

Anybody find a shop-vac adapter on ebay or otherwise that is a reasonable match for the intake ports on our cylinder heads?[/QUOTE]

Rotating 5.0L Engine Manually

avslash

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Edward2595

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mbw

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blake aiken

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Edward2595

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Huy Tran

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