LR4 Calipers

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Johnnycakes

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Brought my 2016 LR4 HSE with 31,800 miles in to the local indy shop because I was hearing a grinding sound when braking. A few thousand miles ago, the dealer told me I needed brakes soon, so figured I'd get them looked at. Indy shop says yes I do need brakes (also does the rotors at the same time, I know this has been argued on this forum). But he also said that 3 out of 4 of my calipers are bad. Can't remember exactly what he said but it was something about them sticking. I have an extended warranty so he was going to try to get them to cover 3 out of the 4 and I would pay for the 4th.

Does this make sense?

Thanks in advance.
 

Strizzo

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if warranty will pay for them i'd get them done. If i were doing the work myself i'd unstick them, grease the pins and replace the rubber boots and hardware. If the pins are really bad, i'd replace them with new and grease them along with the new boots, etc.

i realize nowadays a lot of shops would rather just put a set of loaded calipers in and be done with it, since it takes a lot less time for them and the parts cost is higher even though book time is probably about the same.
 

ktm525

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Are they stuck on the caliper pins or are the pistons sticking? I am betting the caliper pins are sticking and they can't remove them from the caliper. These pins need at least once a year and better twice a year cleaning of the pins and a regrease with a silicone based lubricant which won't screw up the rubber bushing on the lower pins.


This is the result of a swelled caliper pin bushing. It was close but I had to remove each caliper to my bench vice and work it with a BFH and chisel to get them free. This LR bushed caliper pin is the nastiest caliper pin in the universe.

IMG_3326.JPG
 

howardduff

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When I removed the front caliper bolts on my 2015 LR4 only one had the rubber bushing. I believe it was the top bolt. I understand that if you don't put that bolt into the same position the calipers will not move freely and you it will produce excess heat and premature wear. Look at thread "Breaking Problems again Sticking Calipers" from the end of 2108. There are some good posts on this problem.
 

howardduff

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When I removed the front caliper bolts on my 2015 LR4 only one had the rubber bushing. I believe it was the top bolt. I understand that if you don't put that bolt into the same position the calipers will not move freely and you it will produce excess heat and premature wear. Look at thread "Breaking Problems again Sticking Calipers" from the end of 2108. There are some good posts on this problem.
 

ktm525

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When I removed the front caliper bolts on my 2015 LR4 only one had the rubber bushing. I believe it was the top bolt. I understand that if you don't put that bolt into the same position the calipers will not move freely and you it will produce excess heat and premature wear. Look at thread "Breaking Problems again Sticking Calipers" from the end of 2108. There are some good posts on this problem.


Bushed caliper pins only go in the bottom position as per the service manual. The top pins have no bushings. Shops constantly get this wrong although I honestly don't know if it makes a difference. The frequent use of a silicone based lube is very important.
 

Johnnycakes

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Well, my calipers have never been worked on before. Not sure how they have failed after 4 years and 31k miles. Waiting on the warranty company (I bought the Land Rover extended warranty) to tell me if it’s covered or not. Shop owner seems to think they may decline and call it corrosion at which point I may be in for a hefty bill. If that’s the case I will scream at the warranty company and the Land Rover dealer who sold it to me.
 

ktm525

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4 years low mileage or not is too long especially living in the rust belt. Clean and lube the pins yearly. Keep fighting and perhaps they will be covered.
 

Johnnycakes

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Warranty company covered 3 out of 4 calipers(the rear right was not “stuck”).

for all oem parts- pads, rotors, and calipers x 4, I’m at $1750 which includes my deductible.
 

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