Intake Valve Cleaning

jlach993 said:

What rpm did you hold it at whilst spraying?

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Not far took above idle, 2500.

jlach993 said:

Hey everyone, i have a few questions i’d like to ask you all in regards to the valves on our DI engines. I’m not experiencing any issues with the motor, but i know they’re prone to carbon build up on top of the valves. I just want to do some preventative maintenance as the truck has 89k miles. I’m a bit lazy/cheap to do walnut blasting as of yet. Is it okay to buy CRC cleaner or Seafoam and spraying it down the throttle body? Would that make a difference in cleaning off the gunk? My plan was to do a can a week for a month which would be 4 treatments. Is it worth it or just a waste of time? Also what cleaner should i go ahead with. Let me know honestly people. Thanks a lot for all your inputs!

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Your starter thread question "regards to the valves valves on our D1 engines". That covers 1994 to mid 1998 3.9/ 4.0 with a few 4.6 push rod engines sold in the US including 1990 3.5 engines sold in Europe.

Your thread went off track highjacked instantly into LR3 & LR4 series OHC engines with direct injection, not even close to member jlach993 starting thread question, WTH?

Yes the 3.9, 4.0 & 4.6 push rod engines have carbon buildup issues on the back side of the valves to a point of ugly talking a 1/8" to 3/16" or more of crusty ugly buildup crap on up the valve and stem up until where carbon contacts the guide removing carbon at max valve lift.
Talk about a restriction for the already crappy missmatched assembly intake manifold and heads assembly from the factory already. The incoming fuel/air flow as well the carbon mass acting like a sponge absorbing the fuel then releasing it as if it's breathing not allowing a constant fuel/air ration to burn also confusing the O2 sensor hence a crappy running engine overall.

Walnut blasting, no thanks I do not want gritty hard carbon particles with walnut shells grinding into the cylinder bores and impacted into the soft aluminum piston in my engines as well burnted and stuck to the fine honeycomb of the CVats. Sea Foam another joke but has followers, believers, I call them dreamers. If it works for you go for it and forget my approach advice with this issue as i've seen buildup on several engines even from a factory new push rod LR engines by 25-30K miles running clean high grade with detergents like Chevron with Techron gasoline here in the USA. I can hear it now me being called an A-hole being vocal or opinionated, that's ok i'm not going to bed with them anyway.

To do a sanitary cleaning with ZERO carbon grit and crap entering the combustion chamber is the name of the game unless you do not care or repect engines, I do.

With your D1 series like my 95 D1 with ram tubes above the intake manifold it's easy to remove, later D1's with the long cast aluminum runners and twin logs a bit harder to remove.

Locate cylinder number one by rotating crank manually to compression TDC number one. Stuff the other seven intake runners with paper towels, I prefer cloth rags as they can have the intake valves still opened not wanting crap blown into them. Cover the fenders and any painted surfaces including covering the windshield and cowl area.

First I looked into the port to see how bad the buildup was, even used a endoscope with the laptop to get an idea not just guessing the buildup but knowing visually.

Cut towel material into 2 1/2" squares, gripped in the center by a flexable parts tool pickup tool. Dipped or sprayed until the towel is soggy with Berrymann B-12 carb cleaner then swab the intake valve in a jabbing way to dissolve the carbon buildup. Several applications, checking your progress as you go until the valve backside, stem look smooth metal gray or stained color like new valves again. Air blast the port dry and clean removing ever bit of carbon particles left behind. I'm a medically clean person with my aviation background rebuilding aircraft engines, high strict standards of the FAA I enjoy and maintain vs slam bam dealerships looking for the most profit. They bhave no interest in making your LR run 300K miles, rather get you into another newer expensive model to keep their doors open.
When happy plug that port with a rag then rotate the crank to the next cylinder in the firing order of compression to TDC and repeat. Note covering all paintwork from any B-12 being blasted out the ports to not damage your paintwork.
When all done your valves will be clean with zero carbon grit entering the engine. This hard carbon builup can not be fully removed by the use of Seafoam, i've seen first hand with the endoscope shocking the LR owner who wasted their money.
Yes you will spend 3 to 4 plus hours depending on how much buildup your dealing with as the buildup does not change if your chugging around town or down the highway exercising the 5 speed with 4,500 to 5,200 rpm upshifts.

OMG I love my 4.6 powered 5 speed 95 D1.

On a sad note Berrymann B-12 now days slowly evaporates thanks to the EPA BS 50 states legal vs years before it'd almost freeze your fingers with fast evaporation. They call it CHEMTOOL these days, I find it cleans better than GUNK Carb Cleaner. Berrymann B-12 best purchased in a metal one gallon can sealed preventing evaoration also best for soaking carbs plus way cheaper overall than buying spray cans even when buying the 20 oz. spray cans.
DIY end results knowing your clean again plus running better overall.......~~=o&o>......

Pretty sure DI refers to “direct injected” not “discovery one”

Fuji4 said:

Pretty sure DI refers to “direct injected” not “discovery one”

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No doubt.

My apolgy to the cammer engine section.
This morning my D1 Discocover ONE friend opened up his laptop and had this thread opened up telling me about a "Disco One" carboned up issue. I took the opened thread and ran with it what I used on my group of Disco ONE owners having them maintained geared up with servicing, troubleshooting and correcting issues DIY vs dealerships.

Intersts in the 5.0 Cammer's started and ended quickly after getting roped into an adventure locating a pair of good used heads for a "found dead sold as is dirt cheap 5.0 LR". Almost a tow it away it's yours transaction. After locating good used replacement heads, gaskets and fluids we ended up a little over $550, my labor free.

He owes me bigtime years to come I kept telling him my Bier bill will cost more than the value of his new to him now running LR4.

Moving on with more Disco Ones on the repair wait list but only after I wack my knuckle head friend in the head tonight for handing me his laptop this morning, that should be worth a least a six pack of STOUTS ya think? Easily a $35 Bier bill, another visit this friday night.

Carbon buildup with 5.0's, "they're prone to carbon buildup on top of the valves", this the valve head facing the combustion chamber or the backside of the valves facing the ports this buildup issue? I like a good mystery......~~=o&o>......

With regard to the MAF being disconnected and running, ours would not run, or would for a while and then not, with the intake completely off. I had to bend the straw into the throttle body while holding it open a little ways. It probably depends on how confused your computer gets by getting no MAF flow, and the throttle being open and rpms being high. Ours decided to shut off the fuel after a while since there "was no air".

Al Pizzica said:

With regard to the MAF being disconnected and running, ours would not run, or would for a while and then not, with the intake completely off. I had to bend the straw into the throttle body while holding it open a little ways. It probably depends on how confused your computer gets by getting no MAF flow, and the throttle being open and rpms being high. Ours decided to shut off the fuel after a while since there "was no air".

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This happens because the maf sensors play a huge part in how the truck runs. On the driver's side (LH looking from the cabin) there's a PCV inlet pipe that goes into the plastic intake resonator, remove that pipe on the bottom, and you can spray through it.