A/C Blower Issue

These sound like the FSU units in the e39 m5 BMW that I had a while back. Are they cheap to replace?

Calling these a "resistor" seems a misnomer because I think there's a lot that goes on inside. They aint exactly cheap.

The OE ones are around $160. Atlantic British has one that's $79 that they say they run in all their vehicles.

Or, if you're a gambling man, there's some on Amazon Prime for $17.

Is that resistor located on the side of the fan? And awesome write up by the way!

I did mine over a year ago. Still doing its thing for $45.00. My photos.left new module right defective.
bottom photo you can see the connector right side.

remember5 said:

Is that resistor located on the side of the fan? And awesome write up by the way!

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It's located to the side of the fan, but not on the fan itself. It's towards the center of the vehicle from the fan. It has cooling fins that insert into the ductwork that leads to the fan.

Here's a video explaining how to get to the blower motor for an LR3, but it's the same as an LR4.


The resistor is right above this guy's left hand at around 54 seconds into the video. It's a little bit further back than the blower motor. In this video, it's gray with a green connector on it. My resister was more of a dark charcoal, and my connector was yellowish.

This guy in the video talks about removing the ductwork to get the blower motor out. I did that when I removed the blower motor to check it out. You don't need to remove it to get to the resistor.

georgekale said:

I did mine over a year ago. Still doing its thing for $45.00. My photos.left new module right defective.
bottom photo you can see the connector right side.

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That doesn't look like an LR4. That part doesn't look anything like the resistor in my LR4, and the location looks way different.

Here is what mine looked like:

https://www.roverparts.com/electrical/fuses-resistors/LR031677/

It's located up and under the passenger-side footwell, to the point where you can't see it unless your head is down where the front passenger's feet would be (looking up and with the trim panel removed).

Incidentally, might as well follow up again. Replaced the resistor on Saturday, and it all worked great in the minute or so I ran it after. Didn't drive Sunday. Drove around an hour on Monday, and it worked great. Started the vehicle up yesterday, and the fan was making a strange warbling noise for about 2 seconds and then it just all cut out again. I assume the fusible link blew again. So, have a new blower motor on order now. Maybe there's a short in the fan that's been causing this the whole time? Not sure. But the fan is pretty much the only thing left in the system.

What a PITA.

ryanjl said:

That doesn't look like an LR4. That part doesn't look anything like the resistor in my LR4, and the location looks way different.

Here is what mine looked like:

https://www.roverparts.com/electrical/fuses-resistors/LR031677/

It's located up and under the passenger-side footwell, to the point where you can't see it unless your head is down where the front passenger's feet would be (looking up and with the trim panel removed).

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Sorry. 2011 Range Rover L311 blower resistor.

Installed the new blower today, and everything seems to be working okay so far.

Few more points:

1. What Land Rover calls a "fusible link" is also called a JCase Fuse. I went into O'Reilly's today to get one and the ones they carry look exactly like the ones Land Rover used, which are these:

https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-LJCA040-XP-JCASE-Profile-Carded/dp/B009OZ7J1K

This is one of those things that's actually cheaper at O'Reilly's than Amazon (but only like $1).

2. In the video I posted above, the guy talks about removing that duct work that is just behind the glove box to ease access to the blower motor. The first time I removed the blower motor, I removed that duct work, and it was a colossal PITA to reinstall. It took forever to worm it back into where it goes.

This time, I tried removing the blower motor without removing that duct work. It made removing the old blower and reinstalling the new one a little harder, but I'd still much rather do it this way than to remove that ductwork and have to reinstall it.

ryanjl said:

Installed the new blower today, and everything seems to be working okay so far.

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This still working for you? I've been operating basically replacing that fuse about once a year or so. It just blew again, so I'm guessing I'll need to replace the blower motor and the resistor to cover everything.