2013 LR4 - Transmission Sonnax Zip Kit Completed - The Results

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TrinidadLR4

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Greetings all,

Over the past week, I had the zip kit transmission service done to my 2013 LR4(95.2k miles) with the ZF 6HP28 transmission and wanted to share the experience and details. I was inspired by @Fuji4 and his experiences with it, although his was done on the later 8sp trans that came on 14-16 models. The overwhelming bulk of the work ended up being done by my dad in his much-more-suitable garage but I was involved throughout the process and gathered all the parts and information for him. So, here goes:

Background: we did an ATF drain and pan/filter/fluid change about 6 months ago, switching to the newer two-piece pan and filter design. At the time, I bought the Atlantic British kit and the Febi Bilstein ATF that was compatible with the ZF fluid. The gasket that was supplied with the new pan started leaking soon thereafter and over time, the shifting started deteriorating slightly, with downshifts becoming harsher and upshifts happening too early. Every indication was pointing to either low fluid or improper pressure somewhere so, it was probably a good idea to do this job all over again, with a different/better gasket if possible. Also, we initially didn't replace the connector sleeve and drop the valve body and do the 4 tube seals + double square seal behind it, so now was a good time to maybe do that too? On top of that, I saw Fuji's post about the zip kit and why don't we try doing that too? While you're in there...Also since my dad loves disassembling things and putting them back together with no leftover parts, he was on board. So, off we went.

So as to not rush, we started Monday and finished today. Here is all the information fit to print:

Instructions: For the zip kit itself, we used the excellent instructions supplied. A great walkthrough and backup reference was https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/...-zip-kit-install-solenoid-replacement-192881/


Parts:
For the pan/gasket/filter kit, I ended up going to Rimmer Bros this time and ordered their DA2142 kit.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR007474BPKITEF

Fluid is here: https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/LRN13754-MFG36.aspx

For the seals behind the valve body/mechatronic unit: There are 4 tube seals and a double square seal. I ordered this(it also includes the connector sleeve, which we replaced): https://www.thectsc.com/products/sealing-sleeve-and-adapter-kit-6hp26/28/32-242-50.html
The zip kit itself: for the lr4, you need the gen 2 zip kit. I ordered it from ebay and got this particular one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/222531774522
If that link expires, search for 'Sonnax ZF6 GEN2ZIP'. The LR4 has a 6HP28, so you need gen2. The LR3s will probably use GEN1, not sure.

Since the zip kit job will require separating two halves of the mechatronic unit, you will need a new separator plate. From all the research, it is POSSIBLE to reuse the old one if you are careful but to be safe, just order a new one. The catch is that you don't know what separator plate you will need until you take off the pan and read some numbers off of the valve body. For the LR4, there are two versions and this guide is invaluable: https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/179-zf6-valve-body-separator-plate-application-chart

Mine was the A063/B063. Since you won't know until you drop the pan, you don't want to order it and have it take 4 days to ship while your car is in pieces. Transtar came through for me - it came in a day from their warehouse in NJ. They carry both versions:
https://transend.us/search/catalog/guided?pageNumber=1&listType=1&description=separator plate&vhid=4a5294fa02dc&searchType=catalogGuided&priceDisplay=false

Finally, the trans pan gasket. I was going to take my chances with the gasket supplied in the Rimmer kit but @Daniel Atkinson came through just in time and pointed me to this instead: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUB-LLT-F6R80

I am so glad I ordered this because the flimsy rubber gasket that came with the Rimmer kit didn't look great. This gasket is awesome and doesn't need any sealant.

Otherwise, it is a matter of following the detailed steps laid out in the zip kit(cross referencing the walkthrough in the Jag forum) and taking your sweet time. Every single portion of the kit is in a separate bag, labeled clearly and the instructions are fantastic. FWIW, the torque values for the pan bolts are wrong - 14nm is too much, I ended up going with 10. With the lubegard gasket, it was plenty.

As far as the upgraded zip kit parts - the biggest noticeable upgrade seemed to be the end plugs for the mechatronic unit. The original ones were rather loose while the new ones had beefy o rings in them and had to be shoved in. There were other upgrades too, which are detailed in the zip kit writeup. I elected not to replace the solenoids themselves, but the solenoid orings were replaced with the zip kit.

After all was said and done, filled it with fluid as per official procedure and reset the adaptations using my IID tool. Then, off for a test drive!

There were a few immediately noticeable differences. It shifts noticeably faster now, as well as is in the proper gear much more often. Before, it would upshift early and then get confused when you wanted to accelerate, etc. Coming to a stop, downshifts are much smoother. Overall, it just seems much more buttoned down, executes quick two-gear downshifts on the highway, and seems like no more confusion+no more catching up to what you are trying to do. So far, I am very happy with the results. Also, no leaks so far!

Anyway, hope this helps. This forum is awesome and the collective knowledge we have takes us far, so happy to contribute as much as I can. If I left anything out or can clarify, feel free to ask.
 
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TrinidadLR4

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Update: I have had over a week with the zip kit now and have driven about 700 miles total, taking it on two long-ish trips. I couldn't be happier. The car feels so much better, overall. The transmission shifts really well, holds gears much better and I am under the impression that the truck accelerates faster too. On the highway, it won't downshift right away and will pull away in the current gear. If you give it more throttle, the downshifts are very quick and snappy. Maybe the torque converter lockup is better now? Either way, really glad I did this. No leaks, nothing abnormal so far.
 

TrinidadLR4

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I think it's worthwhile doing if you are changing out the fluid anyway. It's extra work but not significantly more. Just take your time and be prepared for the car to be out of commission for a couple of days. From everything I've read, the rubber and plastic seals behind the valve body will go eventually anyway(as will o-rings and seals inside the valve body), as the fluid has tons of detergents. Since proper pressure is crucial to the trans operating properly, shifting will then be affected, etc. Looking back, I should have probably replaced the solenoids themselves also, as almost every other moving or sealing part in the valve body is now new.

If there is one key takeaway that I would emphasize, whether you do just a fluid change or end up doing the zip kit - absolutely use the lubegard trans pan gasket rather than the junk that is supplied with the conversion kit. An extra $20 is worth to prevent seeps and leaks.
 
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mbw

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Thank you for the links. I have redone my pan and gasket twice and it leaked after the first time. I used lots of sealant this time... I wish I had seen this other gasket.

I may end up redoing it again just to get this other gasket in there. My trans still shifts really great so I don't know that I need the zip kit. But I haven't done the connector yet. It hasn't leaked.
 

Cbass

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As someone who has been thinking of doing the same on my 2010, thank you for the nice write up and links! I also did the AB trans pan swap and Febi fluid and had a leaky gasket lol. I was able to retorque the bolts and that seemed to fix it. These transmissions seem to be pretty sensitive to fluid level.

It has been about a year on my fluid change, but I did want to do the zip kit and maybe solenoids at some point along with the other parts you mentioned. We'll see...
 

gsxr

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If there is one key takeaway that I would emphasize, whether you do just a fluid change or end up doing the zip kit - absolutely use the lubegard trans pan gasket rather than the junk that is supplied with the conversion kit. An extra $20 is worth to prevent seeps and leaks.
Thanks for all this info, and the link to a proper gasket! I've not yet done the conversion to the metal pan with separate filter, and one of the reasons I was reluctant was the crappy paper gasket supplied. I've dealt with those in the past, they are too leak-prone with a stamped-steel item like the aftermarket pan. I knew it would need sealant to not leak, and I hate smearing sealants on paper gaskets, as it is a massive PITA to clean off the next time.

The LubeGard LLT-F6R80 filter claims to be aluminum core and appears to have silicone beads silk-screened on the faces (both sides, I assume) which is PERFECT for this application. No sealants needed, and it also shouldn't stick to either pan or transmission flanges.

I just recently did a fluid-only change (only get 3.5 qts out, of 10.5 total, aaargh) and will probably do another couple of those before finally dropping the pan and converting.

:beer:

lub-llt-f6r80_xl.jpg
 

mbw

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Ya, agreed. This gasket looks 10x better. I really had to use quite a bit of sealant this last time and I know it is going to suck to redo it again. But brake cleaner works well. Just such a messy job. Wish I had seen this a few months ago. :D
 

mbw

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I just ordered this gasket. I may just redo the fluid and take the pan off one more time (third time's the charm) and change to this gasket and a new filter. Fluid should be well flushed by then.
 

DaytonaRS7

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I plan to be doing this in the next couple weeks, would you mind sharing how long it took you to do the work on the actual mechatronic unit? Ive done a pan swap already, so i know what im in for that part. Im just just trying to figure out how much total time i should be allotting.

Thanks in advance.
 

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