If that's the fan clutch ticking while the fan is slowly spinning less than engine driven fan pulley speed you should then have a higher rpm ticking sound when the fan is carefully slowed down and stopped.
BTW you living in a cold climate a block heater would be a good idea reducing cold warmup times on the engine. If I lived in that cold climate I would install a block heater as well a heating pad for the battery as well the most important addition installing a Pre-Oiler to the engine. Thin watery oil on up to 10 or 20wt (low number) muli viscosity oils no matter the weights a Pre-Oiler will allow pressurized oil in the engine before ever rotating the crank, rod bearings, cams and piston bores with oil slung off the crank. Bearings pressurized now with oil dripping out of them that will sling off the crank lubing the cold dry cylinder bores. Timing chain tensioners pressurized vs retracted after reading about the 5.0 having issues. Think about it, hot shutdowns the best way for hot oil to drain down. http://www.masterlube.net/exotic.htm I have no connection with Master Lube except phoned questions and conversations with the owner of Master Lube 20 years ago coming up January 2021. First cold start morning new ownership of Disco realizing it had dry cold start issues.
Their 3 quart system with replays, electronic (adjustable) time delay plus a single Red/Green LED with mini NO (normally open) switch low on the dash for a simple basic Pre-Oiling system any woman and wifey can operate. Ignition on, touch switch, Green LED goes to red and once system has cycled and engine been pressurized 8-10 seconds the LED turns to green again, start engine. No rattling rods dry starts, dripping wet engine internally. Best part after a "complete" overnight oil change, installing a empty 34 ounce capacity oil filter,
not LR speced undersized filter, oil added to known capacity in quarts, hit button and have a fully pressurized engine before starting vs ratting rods.
I rather have the LR engine run 2-300K happy miles vs early death problems.
Months reading 5.0 engines having issues from before and around 60K miles requiring expensive repairs to be repeated again later, WTH?
Protect what you got if it were my vehicles under normal climate temps not alone cold weather starts.
Talking a DIY Master Lube preoiler install with DIY designed control system protecting the "antique pushrod" 4.6 95 Disco of 19 plus trouble free years service. They have a bad case of morning cold dry starts of 7-9 seconds with rods ratting before oil pressure has been established. Starts after oil changes much longer times beyond the cringe zone. Not anymore with new 4.6 installed......~o&o>.......
http://www.masterlube.net/exotic.htm
BTW you living in a cold climate a block heater would be a good idea reducing cold warmup times on the engine. If I lived in that cold climate I would install a block heater as well a heating pad for the battery as well the most important addition installing a Pre-Oiler to the engine. Thin watery oil on up to 10 or 20wt (low number) muli viscosity oils no matter the weights a Pre-Oiler will allow pressurized oil in the engine before ever rotating the crank, rod bearings, cams and piston bores with oil slung off the crank. Bearings pressurized now with oil dripping out of them that will sling off the crank lubing the cold dry cylinder bores. Timing chain tensioners pressurized vs retracted after reading about the 5.0 having issues. Think about it, hot shutdowns the best way for hot oil to drain down. http://www.masterlube.net/exotic.htm I have no connection with Master Lube except phoned questions and conversations with the owner of Master Lube 20 years ago coming up January 2021. First cold start morning new ownership of Disco realizing it had dry cold start issues.
Their 3 quart system with replays, electronic (adjustable) time delay plus a single Red/Green LED with mini NO (normally open) switch low on the dash for a simple basic Pre-Oiling system any woman and wifey can operate. Ignition on, touch switch, Green LED goes to red and once system has cycled and engine been pressurized 8-10 seconds the LED turns to green again, start engine. No rattling rods dry starts, dripping wet engine internally. Best part after a "complete" overnight oil change, installing a empty 34 ounce capacity oil filter,
not LR speced undersized filter, oil added to known capacity in quarts, hit button and have a fully pressurized engine before starting vs ratting rods.
I rather have the LR engine run 2-300K happy miles vs early death problems.
Months reading 5.0 engines having issues from before and around 60K miles requiring expensive repairs to be repeated again later, WTH?
Protect what you got if it were my vehicles under normal climate temps not alone cold weather starts.
Talking a DIY Master Lube preoiler install with DIY designed control system protecting the "antique pushrod" 4.6 95 Disco of 19 plus trouble free years service. They have a bad case of morning cold dry starts of 7-9 seconds with rods ratting before oil pressure has been established. Starts after oil changes much longer times beyond the cringe zone. Not anymore with new 4.6 installed......~o&o>.......
http://www.masterlube.net/exotic.htm
