Fan clutch

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Michael Gain

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Thinking that my cooling fan assembly needs to be replaced. I scoured Google and the forums but have not found a definitive answer on my problem.

Without all of the other harmonic symptoms, what would the experts say if the fan only moves about 1"-2" (when vehicle has sat overnight) and I try to "free-spin" the fan by applying quick force in either direction?

I can move the fan if I apply constant force, but if I try to quickly spin it, I see very little movement.

On the other sites, lots of movement or locked movement calls for replacement, but mine seems to be in between.

Thank you in advance for any wisdom!
 

DaytonaRS7

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what symptom is the fan giving you that you feel it needs to be replaced?
Mine was clicking when first started, in colder weather.

this is one of those things that I wouldn't replace unless it was an obvious problem. not noisy, no cooling issues...leave it alone. regardless of how it spins by hand, if it works...it works.

FYI, i purchased URO parts fan for $220. fit perfect. IMO, i wouldn't spend $500 for this OEM part.
 

Michael Gain

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When accelerating from a stop, I get a high pitched whine (intermittent) and a weird vibration at partial throttle. Accelerating and coasting there is not vibration. I originally thought torque converter shudder or cv axle.

I think that it is drivetrain related. Because they were due, I replaced the front LCA, UCA, wheel bearings, inner and outer tie rods, and sway bar bushings. Also replaced the rear driveshaft because the carrier bearing was shot. I also drained and filled the tranny this past weekend. the diffs / transfer case fluids were replaced about 500 miles ago when I replaced the rear diff pinion seal.

I called an Indy in Nashville and he suggested I check the fan. I'll admit though, I may have to check other sources.


what symptom is the fan giving you that you feel it needs to be replaced?
Mine was clicking when first started, in colder weather.

this is one of those things that I wouldn't replace unless it was an obvious problem. not noisy, no cooling issues...leave it alone. regardless of how it spins by hand, if it works...it works.

FYI, i purchased URO parts fan for $220. fit perfect. IMO, i wouldn't spend $500 for this OEM part.
 

jlglr4

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Wondering if this could be the transmission heat shield bracket. The vibration at part throttle (actually right at about 1200-1500 rpm) is a key symptom, but its a vibration you hear rather than feel so much. It can cause sort of a harmonic whine.
 

Michael Gain

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I really appreciate your input. Unfortunately, it was the first thing I replaced when I bought the truck.

It is definitely a feeling and not a sound... I'm going to trouble a little today, but already made an appointment with my Indy for next week, in the event I still can't figure it out.

Wondering if this could be the transmission heat shield bracket. The vibration at part throttle (actually right at about 1200-1500 rpm) is a key symptom, but its a vibration you hear rather than feel so much. It can cause sort of a harmonic whine.
 

gsxr

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FYI, i purchased URO parts fan for $220. fit perfect. IMO, i wouldn't spend $500 for this OEM part.
A word of caution... in general, avoid ÜRO parts like the plague. Don't take my word for it, Google for more info, read first-hand accounts. In the German parts world, they are known as the worst of the worst. Their Rover parts will not be any better. The most frequent complaint is short lifespan on many of their parts. For a non-critical part like a plastic light lens or antenna mast, sure, go for it. But when a fan clutch can come apart and destroy the radiator, I personally wouldn't risk it.

Disclaimer: I have not looked into what brands are available for LR4 fan clutches, as my original is still working fine at 125kmi. If there's not a middle-of-the-road option, I'd eat the $500 needed for OE Genuine.

There are a lot of garbage parts on the market. Do your homework and be really careful when the pricetag is a tiny fraction of OE/OEM. If it sounds too good to be true, etc.

The link below has a useful list of many common brand names for aftermarket parts. The stuff to avoid is near the bottom:
https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/500e-e500-parts-manufacturer-quality-list.1882/


:eek:
 

DaytonaRS7

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A word of caution... in general, avoid ÜRO parts like the plague. Don't take my word for it, Google for more info, read first-hand accounts. In the German parts world, they are known as the worst of the worst. Their Rover parts will not be any better. The most frequent complaint is short lifespan on many of their parts. For a non-critical part like a plastic light lens or antenna mast, sure, go for it. But when a fan clutch can come apart and destroy the radiator, I personally wouldn't risk it.

Disclaimer: I have not looked into what brands are available for LR4 fan clutches, as my original is still working fine at 125kmi. If there's not a middle-of-the-road option, I'd eat the $500 needed for OE Genuine.

There are a lot of garbage parts on the market. Do your homework and be really careful when the pricetag is a tiny fraction of OE/OEM. If it sounds too good to be true, etc.

The link below has a useful list of many common brand names for aftermarket parts. The stuff to avoid is near the bottom:
https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/500e-e500-parts-manufacturer-quality-list.1882/


:eek:

good to know. ill keep an eye on it for signs of failure. dont think ill replace it prematurely though.
and nice that someone compiled a a list of brands!
 

16FujiDisco

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Michael, any update on this cause? I'm on a trip in Tulsa and just noticed mine making a short vibration sound at initial takeoff. Goes away quickly at low rpm and I don't feel it in the wheel or floor or anything. It does sound like it's coming from the front right area though.
 

Michael Gain

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Michael, any update on this cause? I'm on a trip in Tulsa and just noticed mine making a short vibration sound at initial takeoff. Goes away quickly at low rpm and I don't feel it in the wheel or floor or anything. It does sound like it's coming from the front right area though.

In your case it could be a couple of things. If you think that you have narrowed it down to the front right, check the idler pulley right above the alternator. Pull the belt and manipulate the pulley by hand. It would also give you a great opportunity to test the other rotating systems.

External to the engine bay, it could be a wheel bearing, or LCA.

On mine, the whine is gone, but vibrations continue intermittently. Over the months, my diagnosis points towards tires and now air / fuel imparity.

Not included in this thread, I replaced a lot of parts (including the fan and idler pulley I mentioned above). Some solved certain issues, other showed no change. Im sure that I am slowly going insane, but I am ignorantly blissful lol.
 

jlglr4

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a short vibration sound at initial takeoff. Goes away quickly at low rpm and I don't feel it in the wheel or floor or anything.

The other common problem here is the transmission heat shield bracket - if you haven’t already had that fixed. It will produce a vibration sound right around 1200 RPM. Just a sound - you won’t feel it, and usually quite brief as you pass through the 1200 RPM range. Very common - there is a TSB on the issue. Not a difficult repair from what I hear (I had mine done under warranty, but others on the forum have done it themselves). If you just hold your RPMs around 1200, you’ll probably hear it come and go a bit.
 

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