2015 LR4 Coolant Change Issues

This straight from the horse's mouth (Service manual)


29. CAUTION: Be prepared to collect escaping
coolant.
Fill the coolant expansion tank until coolant appears
through the bleed ports.
9.
Set the 10. heater controls to maximum.
Start the engine and continue to fill the coolant until the maximum
level is reached.
11.
12. Increase the engine speed to 1500 rpm.
Check if the front heater is warm after 2 minutes, if warm proceed to
step 15.
13.
If not, turn the engine off for 10 seconds and then start the engine
and return to step 12.
14.
Once the front heater is warm, check if the rear heater is warm (if
equipped). If no heat is felt, increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm
for 30 seconds and return to idle.
15.
Once heat is felt at the rear heater, continue filling with coolant
until the level stops dropping and top up to 65mm below rim (to top
rib on back of the coolant expansion tank).
16.
37. CAUTION: Correct installation of the Coolant
expansion tank cap can be obtained by tightening the
cap until an audible click is heard.
17.
18. Switch the heater off.
19. Raise the engine speed to 2000 RPM for eight minutes.
40. CAUTION: Switch off the engine and allow the coolant
temperature to go cold.
Switch the engine off and allow to cool.
20.
Visually check the engine and cooling system for signs of coolant
leakage.
21.
42. WARNING: When releasing the cooling system pressure,
cover the coolant expansion tank cap with a thick cloth.
• CAUTIONS:
Since injury such as scalding could be caused by escaping
steam or coolant, make sure the vehicle cooling system is cool prior
to carrying out this procedure
Make sure the coolant level remains above the "COLD FILL
RANGE" lower level mark.
• NOTE: When the cooling system is warm, the coolant will be
approximately 10mm above the upper level mark on the expansion
tank with the cap removed.
Check and top-up the coolant if required.
22.

JAMike said:

I was only checking the vents on the roof above the rear seats, 2nd row. I didn't think to check the others. I will be sure to do that this evening. Thanks!

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I don't believe heat is sent through those. Again it has been awhile.

Thank you avslash! I will give this a try.

ktm525 said:

Right but when you say no heat do you mean the vent in the third row on the drivers side? Are you getting heat under the drivers/passenger seat for the second row?

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I did not have a chance to try again because I was unable to find the fourth bleeder valve. I will keep you posted.

jlglr4 said:

If you are only opening the forth bleeder (which is a good idea to try first), you probably don’t need to elevate the expansion tank as that forth bleeder is already lower than the expansion tank, and the forth bleeder is opened and closed with the engine running (i.e., coolant circulating). If that doesn’t work for you, I’d let the engine cool, then go through the whole procedure.

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I couldn't find the forth bleeder valve. Any ideas? I circled the three I have found.

Those are the only ones I have ever used.

You will know you are getting close when coolant spouts like a geyser out of the one closest to the firewall.

There is a bleeder on the crossover-pipe. Right dead center in your image. More like a cap that pops off rather than a screw type bleeder.

Word of caution, though - if you haven’t replaced that crossover tube, the plastic might be brittle. You probably should get an extra cap/plug from the dealer before you use this bleed point (they’re about $7 as I recall).

You might be able to get it to bleed out just using the other three points. Not sure, but might be worth a try first.

In the procedure I used, that crossover was the first bleed point (engine off), the firewall was the second bleed point (engine off), the expansion tank bleeder was left open perhaps to allow air to escape the tank - but I don’t remember fluid ever coming out, and the bleeder on the radiator hose was the last bleed point (engine running).

I can't believe people even try to bleed like all this ^^ ..... its nuts. Just get one of these vacuum filler tools. It seriously takes me 5 minutes total to fill my coolant after I drain it. I have never touched the bleed points on my engine... ever. Plus I am sure the system is leak tested and nothing is busted all in one step.

You drain from the lower radiator hose, put that back on, slap the tool on, draw vacuum, put the hose in a bucket of coolant, open it up and it fills to perfect level... done.. no fuss.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-244...ols+vacuum+fill+coolant&qid=1603834427&sr=8-2

jlglr4 said:

There is a bleeder on the crossover-pipe. Right dead center in your image. More like a cap that pops off rather than a screw type bleeder.

Word of caution, though - if you haven’t replaced that crossover tube, the plastic might be brittle. You probably should get an extra cap/plug from the dealer before you use this bleed point (they’re about $7 as I recall).

You might be able to get it to bleed out just using the other three points. Not sure, but might be worth a try first.

In the procedure I used, that crossover was the first bleed point (engine off), the firewall was the second bleed point (engine off), the expansion tank bleeder was left open perhaps to allow air to escape the tank - but I don’t remember fluid ever coming out, and the bleeder on the radiator hose was the last bleed point (engine running).

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I looked that over a few times thinking that might be the forth but it looked different than the others so I bailed. LOL. I will definitely give that a try and maybe buy a new one just in case. Much appreciated.!

mbw said:

I can't believe people even try to bleed like all this ^^ ..... its nuts. Just get one of these vacuum filler tools. It seriously takes me 5 minutes total to fill my coolant after I drain it. I have never touched the bleed points on my engine... ever. Plus I am sure the system is leak tested and nothing is busted all in one step.

You drain from the lower radiator hose, put that back on, slap the tool on, draw vacuum, put the hose in a bucket of coolant, open it up and it fills to perfect level... done.. no fuss.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-244...ols+vacuum+fill+coolant&qid=1603834427&sr=8-2

Click to expand...

I don't doubt this saves time but no more than I plan on doing this (never again) I won't get my money's worth. Thank you for sharing the link just in case I give up on the old school way.