You'll want to depressurize the fuel system from the upper fuel rail union. Remove the passenger tire, fender flares, and wheel well. From what i remember, 17mm wrench and t30 torx will do the job. Fuel will spray, so have some towels ready. Pretty easy job.
LR4 front fuel pumps
- Thread starter huchipila
- Start date
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thanks, i ordered both pumps on autohausaz.com for $163.99 each. pretty good price, but i wanted to make sure what the job would entail before i removed them. i have also heard you had to have special tools to replace them.
No real special tool, except the torx bit, which you should have if you wrench a Land Rover. Wear some eye protection, you seriously don't want premium gas in your eyes.
bblake12nd
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kennyao3001
Checking back in on this project. Were you able to successfully replace your fuel pumps ? Any pictures available ?LR4 2011
Active Member
The job requires the right side items in the engine compartment to be moved. Remove fuel line etc., similar to a timing chain job but can be done with a little patience.
210Hitman47
New Member
Did you have to lock the cam or timing chain to do the job?
Yes, you need to lock the intake and exhaust cam gears from the back on both bank 1 and bank 2. Well, thats if you want to do it properly. You'll also need to lock the flywheel from the starter.
Doing the zip tie version, you're also assuming that there's no chain stretch.
jlglr4
Full Access Member
Lock the cams to remove the HP fuel pumps? I haven't done this repair myself yet, but I don't see why you'd need to lock the cams unless you're removing the chain from the fuel pump cam. The pumps just run off some kind of tappet, right? So removing the pump shouldn't mess up the timing - at least to my understanding. I don't think you even need to remove the valve covers, just the fuel lines and then access from below through the wheel well.
Pulled up the manual, and they don't mention any need for cam lock. Manual tells you to remove a motor mount and the alternator to gain access. It also says to discard the high pressure fuel lines. Not sure if that's all really necessary. I have a feeling the motor mount removal is to get access to the fuel lines for complete removal. If reusing the fuel lines (which they say not to do), can probably skip the motor mount removal. Again, though, just looking at the pics in the manual, which can be misleading.
Haha, sorry my fault. No, you don't need to lock the cam gears for hpfp replacement. I've been wrapped around timing chain posts and helping a friend change out their timing chain.
For hpfp replacement:
- Open hood to remove engine cover
- Depressurize the fuel system with a 17mm open wrench on the union of the silver fuel lines
- Lift front LH side to remove tire and wheel well
- Remove the (I think) metal plate and foam covers for the hpfps
- Remove and replace the hpfps
- Reverse the process and that's it
You don't need to prime the fuel. It's ok to run dry for a few seconds before it fires up.
