Diy timing chain

Nothing to see there. Sounds fine. It will get a lot louder when there is an actual issue.

Video doesn't always represent well, but It doesn't sound bad to me either.

As far as the "slack" you see, I pressed on mine the same way this evening. It is similar and I have all new timing set.

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Thank you both!

Releived and suprised to hear that.
So it is possible to have "high (140k) miles with original tensioners and guides. Maybe not the norm though.

Hopefully someone in the future sees those videos and can use them as a reference

DaytonaRS7 said:

Before I really go down this rabbit hole, does anyone want to comment on any of these videos?

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It's not TOO bad, BUT that timing chain is pretty loose. I also wouldn't want to jab it with a flat head too hard as it may scar the chain. The chain should be taut like a single gear bicycle chain.

djkaosone said:

It's not TOO bad, BUT that timing chain is pretty loose. I also wouldn't want to jab it with a flat head too hard as it may scar the chain. The chain should be taut like a single gear bicycle chain.

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We have no idea on the amount of pressure being applied and the tensioners only work while the engine is running since they utilize oil pressure?

djkaosone said:

It's not TOO bad, BUT that timing chain is pretty loose. I also wouldn't want to jab it with a flat head too hard as it may scar the chain. The chain should be taut like a single gear bicycle chain.

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i wont discredit you opinion, but seems your the odd one out.

good point about the flat head..it was the first long handle tool i saw in my drawer. i never would think a scratch on a chain could cause an issue.

ktm525 said:

We have no idea on the amount of pressure being applied and the tensioners only work while the engine is running since they utilize oil pressure?

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i applied just enough pressure so any slack was taken up. when i felt resistance (taught chain), i let up.

if i had to give a distance of deflection, it would be a heavy 1/8"

They have a hydraulic component, but they definitely apply a significant amount of tension at rest as well. When you replace them you pull a pin and they snap tight right away.

I agree that pressing on the chain in that location is a very crude assessment of the chain tension. It also does not take into account any slack that is being generated in the chain under load.

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AGLR4 said:

They have a hydraulic component, but they definitely apply a significant amount of tension at rest as well. When you replace them you pull a pin and they snap tight right away.

I agree that pressing on the chain in that location is a very crude assessment of the chain tension. It also does not take into account any slack that is being generated in the chain under load.

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understood.

do we all agree is sounds ok though? can I at least go by that?
compared to other videoas, i hear no chain slap, but as mentioned....sound on videos can be deceiving.

To me yes. The 2010s are now over 10 years old and they are going to make some noise. Chasing problems in a 10 year old Rover is expensive and don't you worry, acute problems that need the be addressed will pop up, I can guarantee it...

Chasing random air suspension issues
battery replacement
rear hatch switches
control arms
brake rotors and pads with frightening regularity
coolant cross overs
water pumps

That's enough on the plate as is. With over 10 years of data all maintenance/repairs on my LR4 has been $0.09/km CAN or $0.144/mile CAN. or about $0.11 US/mile


So over 100k miles that is $11 000. Good vehicles but they do require attention and wear components are expensive.

I've owned my 2011 LR4 since around 60,000. I assume the previous owner never installed updated guides, Based on my ears I've never heard a problem, but would also appreciate expert ears. Appreciate all everyone here offers! I could not own an LR4 without your help!

Q's LR4 Engine Timing Chain Check Jan. 2022