EBC Rotors + EBC GreenStuff 6000 Brake Pads Feedback

There are multiple different compounds of "Greens", as ktm25 noted in post #9. The compound varies by vehicle application. EBC would probably not offer a pad for the LR4 that was inadequate for the weight of the vehicle. That said, @keya, please let us know how they work long term - particularly pad and rotor lifespan.

Of interest is that EBC does not offer any Redstuff ceramic pads for the LR4. Next step up their performance ladder would be Yellows ($350+/set), and then Orange ($400+/set). That's a steep premium over the ~$200/set Greens. I'm too cheap bother trying any of them when OEM Ferodo are available for <$125/set, front & rear.

As for the issue with the D2 fading, yes, the D2 brakes are completely different sizes. Apples & oranges.

Bedding is critical, go easy on the new pads/rotors for several hundred miles of city/town driving before you hammer on them.

i have used akebono ceramics that have been pretty good...hawk ceramics too

gsxr said:

There are multiple different compounds of "Greens", as ktm25 noted in post #9. The compound varies by vehicle application. EBC would probably not offer a pad for the LR4 that was inadequate for the weight of the vehicle. That said, @keya, please let us know how they work long term - particularly pad and rotor lifespan.

Of interest is that EBC does not offer any Redstuff ceramic pads for the LR4. Next step up their performance ladder would be Yellows ($350+/set), and then Orange ($400+/set). That's a steep premium over the ~$200/set Greens. I'm too cheap bother trying any of them when OEM Ferodo are available for <$125/set, front & rear.

As for the issue with the D2 fading, yes, the D2 brakes are completely different sizes. Apples & oranges.

Bedding is critical, go easy on the new pads/rotors for several hundred miles of city/town driving before you hammer on them.

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Have you read the official Land Rover method to bedding new brakes? Hard and hot with cool down cycles especially when it comes to parking brake pads. Not sure how I feel about it.

Akebono will be my next set. Less dust, perhaps a smidge less feel but made in North America.

delete

ktm525 said:

Have you read the official Land Rover method to bedding new brakes? Hard and hot with cool down cycles especially when it comes to parking brake pads. Not sure how I feel about it.

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In general, this type of process is for rapid bedding... i.e., for race cars on a closed course, where they can't putt around with light braking for extended periods. I've done both. I prefer the slow & steady method. I once had a bad result with the rapid, hot & hard method. Never had an issue with the slow bedding process. YMMV, apply grains of salt as needed, etc etc. Oh, and I've never heard of a bed-in process for parking brake pads! I'll have to look that up. Maybe it's an unusual design.

ktm525 said:

Akebono will be my next set. Less dust, perhaps a smidge less feel but made in North America.

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As long as you are aware of the issues with feel, and possible fade under extreme conditions, Akebonos should be fine for normal use if your primary goal is reduced / lighter-color dust. I've not been happy with any ceramics I've tried, but that's just me. An awful lot of folks REALLY like them.

For those of you with 2010s there is a vin break with regards to the front pads required. It seems most manufacturers ignore this and I am not sure what the differences are but if you are experiencing strange issues perhaps this is a place to look. Here Brembo mentions it:




According to Brembo the earlier vin pad is 18.4mm thick vs the new part which is 18.6mm. Not sure if the earlier calipers cannot accommodate the thicker pad or what the deal was.

EBC also offers 2 different front pads / part numbers for the LR4. I wasn't sure what the difference was. 0.2mm thickness difference is almost nothing... gotta be some other change as well? I forget if MicroCat showed anything useful.

I bet the early pads were for easy install on the assembly line.

gsxr said:

Never had an issue with the slow bedding process.

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Is there an actual process, or do you just avoid spirited driving for the first phase? Honestly I haven't done anything differently after a new brake job in terms of driving style (which does veer toward the "responsibly spirited" side). Shame on me.

cperez said:

Is there an actual process, or do you just avoid spirited driving for the first phase? Honestly I haven't done anything differently after a new brake job in terms of driving style (which does veer toward the "responsibly spirited" side). Shame on me.

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Different mfr's have slightly different procedures, but as a vague generalization, the slow process is to initially do some gentle braking from about 40mph --> 20mph, release and wait 30-60 seconds for the brakes to cool, then repeat a half-dozen times. Then let it sit overnight, or enough hours to fully cool. Repeat the next day if you're the nervous type. Then just go easy and avoid panic stops, hard braking, trailering downhill, etc for ~500 miles or so. Generally, you will start to notice improved feel as the pads bed in. The idea here is the pads are warmed up, but never overheated or overstressed, while compound is gradually transferred to the rotors.

Some pad compounds are more picky about this. And in general it's more likely to be needed if installing brand new rotors, or changing pad compounds with old rotors. My personal experience is that ceramics are the worst and have a very long bedding process before they feel anywhere near "normal", like 500+ miles. The best I've ever encountered are Porterfield carbon-Kevlar, which even with new rotors felt perfect from the first stop at the end of the driveway - shocked me the first time that happened. Most OEM pads are somewhere in the middle.

I would follow the recommendation from the pad manufacturer, for the specific pad compound you just installed.