LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

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Lgibson

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Alot of items seem somehow to run through the ECO battery - I doubt that the ECO battery affects the transmission, but I thought I would ask.

Our local inspection shop here in Houston passed the truck even with the ECO light on. Might be your regulations require no idiot lights to be illuminated.

On the shift. It's not bad bad, but it's just harsher than it should be. Yes, we wait until the RPM has come down.

In our case the dealership reported failure of the start/stop battery had caused a fault to be stored in the PCM preventing monitors from being set.
 

f1racer328

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No signs of a leak anywhere, but then again, it would have to be large to have noticed it with my casual look abouts.
I will take a much closer look...

And then, there you have it! The 1st TSB above, LTB01296NAS2, includes our 2016 LR4 VIN and that may explain why the dealership was so agreeable to replace the transfer case under warranty. They never said anything about the transmission fluid, but this one is decidedly worth serious inspection. Looks like a very first pass would be to top up the transmission fluid and do the LTB00855NAS1 reset. Then the pan swap at a later date after I pay off the IID Tool...

I will update once the top up and reset have been completed.

MANY THANKS!

Dan
Why was your transfer case replaced? Leaking?

I had my car in (under warranty) for a driveline vibration and during their troubleshooting they replaced a wheel bearing and the transfer case (Mine was making metal)

Didn't even tell me until I picked it up lol, which was fine since they covered it all.

In the end, my vibration was due to having a lift on the suspension (Via GAP, vibration around 83 mph)

Lowered car back to stock and it went away... got a few extras with that one lol.
 

txfromwi

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I took it in for another issue and while I was driving it to show them, I said hey, what about this.
When driving forward and turning with the wheel at the limit, there was a small shudder.
It didn't bother me, but as soon as they felt it, they moved forward and then there was a new transfer case...
The shudder is gone now so I guess that was the problem.

But, they said the transfer case fluid was low and burned. Hmmm, in a sealed system...

So that gives me the motivation to keep a close eye on the transmission, that's why I am concerned about the harsh shift from P to D.

And after seeing that TSB above, I will proceed one step at a time. First an investigatory open, check fluid level and top up, and a bit later a pan change so I can do a full fluid change.
 

txfromwi

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By visual inspection.

For both LR4's.

The 6 speed 2013 has a drain plug, no protective shield.
The 8 speed 2016 has a drain plug, the protective shield was attached by 4, 10mm bolts that came off faster than it took to get under the truck. One needed a box wrench, the other 3 were fine with a ratchet.

The drain plugs on both are 10mm.

First step is a simple drain and refill.
 

txfromwi

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OK, so it's always the bit you think will work fine that is the problem.

At this point I have opted for a simple transmission fluid drain and re-fill rather than the whole pan swap option.


On the 2016 LR4 8 speed transmission drain plug.
The drain plug is a female and requires a male socket

Brand new 10mm Male torque socket.(CORRECTED)
Fits perfectly.
Being very careful
Does not unscrew the drain plug, simply spins inside the plug.
Added a layer of foil HVAC adhesive backed tape to the socket.
Fits like a tight glove
Still cannot break the drain plug loose - spins inside the plug.
It says 8Nm on the plug - 8Nm my a$$...


I have not deformed the drain plug, it's still fine with no ill effects.

So before it gets crazy here - any ideas??

One option is to cave man it, tap it out, thus destroying the plug - but a new plug is - get this $50-$60 depending on dealership. Any vendors on this other than dealerships?

Other option is just to change the pan out. I already have the oil.
The only no-oil kit I can find is an aftermarket at Rimmer and it's $87.
Anyone know if that kit is ok?

Anyone know where to get an upgraded gasket rather than just the paper gasket?

Remember, this is the 8 speed - most of this string addresses the 6 speed....
No kits at AB, they only have kits for the 6 speed, not the 8 speed....

Thanks.
 
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Stuart Barnes

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Not tackled this myself yet. But I was under the impression that it was a 10mm allen socket not a 8mm torqs socket that you needed to use. You shouldn’t need any tape on a correct sized tool unless it’s already been damaged. Has someone else done a fluid change to your knowledge?

Yep and please make sure you can remove the filler plug before the drain. Otherwise it’s a flat bed ride for you :(
 

txfromwi

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Corrected, drain is a 10mm, my error.

It's that the plug is a cheap piece of plastic and deforms really easily and is still factory installed and way too tight!

Yes, I already loosened the fill plug - no problem with a breaker bar.
 
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Stuart Barnes

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Corrected, drain is a 10mm, my error.

It's that the plug is a cheap piece of plastic and deforms really easily and is still factory installed and way too tight!

Yes, I already cracked the fill plug - no problem with a breaker bar.

Sounds like you’re 90% caveman on this. Give the drain plug the last 10% and call it a day if it’s already deformed.

At least then you’ll know you have 2 new plugs to go in.
 

Michael Gain

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OK, so it's always the bit you think will work fine that is the problem.

At this point I have opted for a simple transmission fluid drain and re-fill rather than the whole pan swap option.


On the 2016 LR4 8 speed transmission drain plug.
The drain plug is a female and requires a male socket

Brand new 10mm Male torque socket.(CORRECTED)
Fits perfectly.
Being very careful
Does not unscrew the drain plug, simply spins inside the plug.
Added a layer of foil HVAC adhesive backed tape to the socket.
Fits like a tight glove
Still cannot break the drain plug loose - spins inside the plug.
It says 8Nm on the plug - 8Nm my a$$...


I have not deformed the drain plug, it's still fine with no ill effects.

So before it gets crazy here - any ideas??

One option is to cave man it, tap it out, thus destroying the plug - but a new plug is - get this $50-$60 depending on dealership. Any vendors on this other than dealerships?

Other option is just to change the pan out. I already have the oil.
The only no-oil kit I can find is an aftermarket at Rimmer and it's $87.
Anyone know if that kit is ok?

Anyone know where to get an upgraded gasket rather than just the paper gasket?

Remember, this is the 8 speed - most of this string addresses the 6 speed....
No kits at AB, they only have kits for the 6 speed, not the 8 speed....

Thanks.

Google the part number LR065238 and you will find more pan options. The 8 speed uses a rubber gasket, not a paper gasket, and the pan will come with it already installed. To answer your final question, I have found that the drain plug always feels like it is slipping (both upon removal and install). Just keep loosening and the rotation will get smoother prior to it finally coming out.
 

txfromwi

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2016 LR4 - 8 Speed Transmission

I double checked. The drain plug is not boogered up and is not damaged. The socket is actually spinning in the drain plug, the drain plug is not going to come out without destroying it.

Since the plug is $60 and the kit can be as little as $87, it makes sense just to change the pan and replace the filter.

Most of this tread is addressing the 6 speed transmission, so I have to ask.
Has anyone actually changed the pan on the EIGHT (8) speed transmission.

I took a quick look and I need to look again, but on the attached photo.

There is a frame member going from drivers to passengers side just a bit forward of where the oil filter connection point is on this photo.
The 4 bolts on the left hand side.
The 2 on the outside will be challenging, but I can probably get a wrench on those.
The 2 in the middle - I can't see them and I don't even see a way to get anything back there.

Thoughts?
Thanks



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