Wiper Linkage/Transmission Replacement

Exhaustive searching turned up nothing on this, but I'm about to embark on replacing the wiper linkage, arms, and plastic cowl. Seems the 2011 LR4 I just bought has almost no splines left on both wiper arms and the linkages that come up through the cowl.

I've never seen anything like this and wanted to know if anyone else here has. The only way I can think this happens is if the wiper arms are not tightened down properly.


Thanks,
Nick

FWIW, I fixed a used car I had with this issue using JB Weld on one side, and mold release spray on the other. I bought new wiper arms (had good splines) and used the JB Weld to make new splines on the other. Held fine for years!

Thank you for that, greiwswig! I thought about going the JB weld route, but didn't think of the mold release spray (I would have tried that had I thought it through more carefully).

I'm replacing everything since the splined nubs that come up through the cowl are virtually gone as well.

I'm baffled this thing made it through a VA safety inspection like this.

sfdaytona said:

Exhaustive searching turned up nothing on this, but I'm about to embark on replacing the wiper linkage, arms, and plastic cowl. Seems the 2011 LR4 I just bought has almost no splines left on both wiper arms and the linkages that come up through the cowl.


I've never seen anything like this and wanted to know if anyone else here has. The only way I can think this happens is if the wiper arms are not tightened down properly.


Thanks,
Nick

Click to expand...

I’ve just uploaded a video replacing the cowl and the a pillar trims. You can clearly see the mechanism etc.

Whistling windscreen solved, Land Rover A pillar and Cowl replacement, "banish that attack Kazoo"

Not sure if it helps you at all.

Stuart Barnes said:

I’ve just uploaded a video replacing the cowl and the a pillar trims. You can clearly see the mechanism etc.

Click to expand...

I appreciate your clear and thorough videos, Stuart. Cheers

greiswig said:

FWIW, I fixed a used car I had with this issue using JB Weld on one side, and mold release spray on the other. I bought new wiper arms (had good splines) and used the JB Weld to make new splines on the other. Held fine for years!

Click to expand...

No this can't be having Duct Tape bumped from first to second place on the "there I fixed it" list?
Sounds like someone didn't properly torque down the wiper arms be it LR factory (not the first time finding factory faults) on down the current vehicle owner.

Undamaged it's a good idea after removing arms to retorque checking a second time later, better safe than sorry, trust nobody.....~~=o&o>......

BeemerNut said:

No this can't be having Duct Tape bumped from first to second place on the "there I fixed it" list?

Click to expand...

I wasn't suggesting JB Weld or duct tape was ideal. But if the problem is already there, I found that it worked really well. And it's not exactly a life-or-death situation if it doesn't. (This from a guy in Oregon)

Just to put it out there, the torque for the wiper arm bolts is 24Nm / 18 lb.ft for anyone that’s interested.

For comparison it’s less than the oil filter cap. So not much at all.
It’s the captive dual locking washers that do the work on this mechanism keeping the wiper arms snug and the tapered spline that transmits the torque

No mention what the material was made of for the tapered male spline and the female end on the wiper arm.

The screw securing the arm to the tapered spline a plain or coated screw with locking compound like Loctite (Henkel) product on it?
If plain and were my venicle I would recheck the screw torque a month two later or after several wiper cycles dealing with a tapered joint it will become loose agin until finally seated with a repeated failure to follow.

Same issues with Pitman arms on tapered output splines on steering boxes torqued to spec and after 50-100 miles use the Pitman has creeped up the taper farther reducing the initial torque numbers to less than half the tightened torque. Yes that much of a reduction a 105 ft/lb recheck have seen nut movement at 38 ft/lbs.
Anti-vibration with the properties to readjust screws Loctite compound comes to mind retorquing later with a low strength 222 Loctite compound. Low strength able to remove later still having locking abilities vs high strength good luck with that removing compound requiring heat to remove. Thinking dealing with a lot of plastic modern day vehicles.....~~=o&o>......

Good call on the recheck of the nuts that secure the wiper arms down. I buttoned it up to 18 ft/lbs, but honestly haven't driven it or operated the wipers outside of a few tests post-install. I'll recheck it periodically to make sure it's still good to go.

I've often re-checked/re-torqued cyl head bolts after a few heat cycles (once everything is cooled of course) to ensure nothing backed out. I know it's not the same as a tapered output joint, but things can loosed slightly over time, and it's always good practice to double check until things are seated.

I appreciate everyone's inputs. Very helpful! Thank you all!