2012 LR4 H/K subwoofer > No longer working

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Jimmy Brooks

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I’ve got a 400watt JL ported enclosure with a built in amp. once I got it tuned it sounds like it was meant for the car. Bass is Chrystal clear and will crank loud. sadly I got the measurements wrong so I can’t use one of the third row seats but honestly don’t really need to use it anyway. I’ll send photo when I’m home later if anyones interested.
 

double 0

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I’ve got a 400watt JL ported enclosure with a built in amp. once I got it tuned it sounds like it was meant for the car. Bass is Chrystal clear and will crank loud. sadly I got the measurements wrong so I can’t use one of the third row seats but honestly don’t really need to use it anyway. I’ll send photo when I’m home later if anyones interested.
Sure, would love to see it.
 

jlach993

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If you don’t care for the rear seats and can sacrifice a little trunk space, then by all means by any ready made boxes off of crutch field and disconnect that rear sub in the tailgate.
 

double 0

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If you don’t care for the rear seats and can sacrifice a little trunk space, then by all means by any ready made boxes off of crutch field and disconnect that rear sub in the tailgate.
Building a box doesn't seem too terrible. But how was the wiring?
 

jlach993

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Eh not bad honestly. Take it to any competent audio shop and they’d be able to figure it out. I personally did the work myself on this truck and its a pain in the ass. It cost about $2,500 total from thinking about the idea to actually sitting and blasting bass into my ears. It also took many hours of my days for a month, where I ultimately needed a professional audio shop. However, knowing what I know should shave at least 1/4th of those costs. If you’re that interested let me know….BUT if you don’t care about sound quality and “all ahh datt”, it can be done for $500 or so. I wanted my box to look super factory to the LR4. I hate when people “rice” the crap out of these trucks. It’s a prestigious “British” vehicle that is both beautiful/rugged as hell. I’d hate for someone to be around my trunk and say “wow what a big ghetto 1990’s looking box in a bright ass beige interior of a range rover?”. Cmon people….we’d all feel that HAHA.
 
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mm3846

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A line out convertor, 12v remote turn on wire, and 12v power and you're done. pretty simple.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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Mine wasn’t too expensive, the sub I used went up in value due to the shortage of supply because of the ports being backed up. I originally got mine for $500 and install was around $300 making it around $800 for the whole setup. The guy simply just wired the sub input to the factory sub input. The cables for the factory sub are located behind that left removable panel in the back. For me it was worth every penny but that’s because I love crisp low bass. I ended up turning down the factory sub on the Logic 7 system which reserved wattage for the vocals so I get 0 distortion at ridiculously high volumes with the windows down. (Forgot to include this but I also placed sound deadener all over the inside of the doors and door panels myself about a year prior so I don’t get door rattle distortion) I didn’t end up buying a bass knob either, I just simply adjust the factory sub setting and that automatically adjust the settings on the JL sub as well. The only time I ever fidget with the sub setting is if I go windows down and A/C off I use a little more sub. heres A photo I have just off of my phone, I’m at work now but will take more photos later including the sound settings and the setting on the sub I use. Here’s the link to it on the JL website: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/acp110lg-tw1-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93332
 

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Jimmy Brooks

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Eh not bad honestly. Take it to any competent audio shop and they’d be able to figure it out. I personally did the work myself on this truck and its a pain in the ass. It cost about $2,500 total from thinking about the idea to actually sitting and blasting bass into my ears. It also took many hours of my days for a month, where I ultimately needed a professional audio shop. However, knowing what I know should shave at least 1/4th of those costs. If you’re that interested let me know….BUT if you don’t care about sound quality and “all ahh datt”, it can be done for $500 or so. I wanted my box to look super factory to the LR4. I hate when people “rice” the crap out of these trucks. It’s a prestigious “British” vehicle that is both beautiful/rugged as hell. I’d hate for someone to be around my trunk and say “wow what a big ghetto 1990’s looking box in a bright ass beige interior of a range rover?”. Cmon people….we’d all feel that HAHA.
Agreed, although yours is much more of a cleaner, factory looking design i can completely relate tho this. I ended up waiting over 3 months just for the specific sub i have now. You can either go big or go home. If you get an incompetent sub then Your going to have to deal with it everyday. Again I did end up placing a ton of dynamat inside of the doors and inside of the door panels about a year prior to this job to stop my doors from rattling and to improve the vocals of the Harmon/Kardon 480 watt Logic 7 system my truck came with (a much better sound processor and way clearer vocals then then the meridian systems they use now in the new D5 IMO). not sure how much sound deadening would be from a shop but I ended up spending around $240 on the dynamat and nice whole Sunday on installing it. It’s not necessary but again it’s just what I did since I’m a sound ***** but I have 0 regret about it what so ever. Here’s a link to the form I did on it a while back. https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/door-deadening.41671/
 

djkaosone

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jlach993

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Mine wasn’t too expensive, the sub I used went up in value due to the shortage of supply because of the ports being backed up. I originally got mine for $500 and install was around $300 making it around $800 for the whole setup. The guy simply just wired the sub input to the factory sub input. The cables for the factory sub are located behind that left removable panel in the back. For me it was worth every penny but that’s because I love crisp low bass. I ended up turning down the factory sub on the Logic 7 system which reserved wattage for the vocals so I get 0 distortion at ridiculously high volumes with the windows down. (Forgot to include this but I also placed sound deadener all over the inside of the doors and door panels myself about a year prior so I don’t get door rattle distortion) I didn’t end up buying a bass knob either, I just simply adjust the factory sub setting and that automatically adjust the settings on the JL sub as well. The only time I ever fidget with the sub setting is if I go windows down and A/C off I use a little more sub. heres A photo I have just off of my phone, I’m at work now but will take more photos later including the sound settings and the setting on the sub I use. Here’s the link to it on the JL website: https://www.jlaudio.com/products/acp110lg-tw1-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93332
Wow that's pretty expensive though and it looks of really good quality. That is not what I was referring to when I said "big ghetto box" by the way. I meant the sub boxes wrapped in the cheap extra wooly/fuzzy black felt carpet and just sits in the middle of the trunk unbolted and bouncing around haha. That set up is actually way easier than mine as the amp is built into the box. I had to hide my huge amp behind the side cubby trim by where the tire changing apparatus is located. The one plus side for me is that the seat is usable. I regularly use all the seats in my truck.
 

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