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There was a TSB on the p0089 code that was being fixed with a software update. I had it done, but I’ve always been a bit suspicious of that fix - thinking it might have just introduced a little tolerance for a slowly failing low pressure pump. At any rate, that TSB is out there somewhere.
The other thing you can try checking is your fuel trims. If you have a low fuel pressure condition, I would expect high positive fuel trims. Check at idle and at steady rpms at two higher levels (e.g., 1500 and 2500 RPM).
As for the fuel smell, might check your fuel line junctions in the engine bay - make sure there isn’t a little leak someplace. A really badly leaking injector can give you some fuel smell, but kind of doubt that‘s the issue here. Smoke on startup? Other than that pump flange, a leak in the evap system someplace can give you fuel oder, but should also through a code for an evap leak (and CEL).
This is great info. I really appreciate this. I’m going to take a short day tomorrow and really dig into this using the info you’ve provided.The only good way to read fuel trims is to run both short and long term…
That's some good info right there. I've been battling rich fuel for quite (3 years) a while and still can't figure it out. When I did my timing chain, I replaced a lot of fuel related things hpfp, injectors, all o2 sensors, both maf sensors, map sensor, and still shows negative fuel trims. I gave up, but might have to check for vacuum leaks again.The only good way to read fuel trims is to run both short and long term simultaneously for both banks along with RPMs. So, five fields: short term bank 1, long term bank 1, short term bank 2, long term bank 2. Then, hold it steady as you can for 20 seconds or so at a few different RPM levels: idle, something around 1500, something around 2500.
If your overall (short+long) trim is negative, the engine is running rich. If positive, its running lean. By looking at the trend as RPMs increase or decrease, you can sometimes get a better picture of what’s going on (e.g., positive fuel trims at idle that tend to zero out at higher RPMs points to a vacuum leak; fuel trims that get more positive as RPMs increase might point to a fuel starvation issue, or MAF issue; rich conditions might be a fuel injector; etc.).
So, these graphs are not ideal, but your long term graph is way positive, indicating a lean condition. When you accelerate, looks like it comes down. Short term always jumps around a lot while driving (which is why steady RPMs are easier to read), but looks like short term is also dipping when you hit the gas. So, more than likely, you have a vacuum leak of some kind (vacuum is highest at idle, and air flow is at a minimum, so a vacuum leak shows up more at idle and evens out as you throttle up). But it would be good to run that data again at steady RPMs.
If the tank is leaking air, that could be the source of a vacuum leak through the purge valve.
I remember your truck and username. I purchased my truck on April 20th of last year and you posted about your purchase around the same time. That color is amazing. I love the grey and I’m happy with it, but every time I see a Firenze one I get a little jealous hahaYep awesome pics! I just hit 1-year with mine too, but yeah, I don't got time for those awesome pics. I added some from our EMHT trip. Definitely check it out, starts out of Needles.
If the tank is leaking air, that could be the source of a vacuum leak through the purge valve.