LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

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gabrielef

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You don't need to lift the transfer case if you use the 2-piece transmission pain/filter kit. That's the whole point of the kit.

Unless I misunderstand what you are asking.
You don't really, but it's SOOOO much easier to remove even the two piece pan and loosen/tighten the bolts at the front of the pan.
 

gabrielef

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One question, has anyone had success with these ultra low profile torx wrenches? I was planning to lift after taking out the transfer case mount bolt but if using these would save that step then seems worth it.

I have the hex socket head bolts on mine and if you use an 8"+ allen key socket with a ball point, it makes accessing all the bolt heads super easy, especially if you've raised the transmission 2" or so. It was a gamechanger for me.
 

Nick11LR4

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You don't really, but it's SOOOO much easier to remove even the two piece pan and loosen/tighten the bolts at the front of the pan.
Yea that’s what I was guessing, seems worth the few extra minutes then. Will try your suggestion on the tools too. Thanks
 

ajkenned

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Just did this Sunday, took me 4 hours taking my sweet time, from sliding the jack under the truck to parking it after the test drive. I was so happy to get the lube locker gasket, I’ve been using them on diffs since high school and it makes these jobs so easy.

The new pan has two drain plugs it looks like.. the big 10mm hex like the original pan, and a small one. Anyone know why that one is there?
Reviving an old thread... just did the job yesterday, about 5 hours of work. Best things I did were get kitty litter as spill absorbent as there was oil nearly everywhere, and the Ford A/T gasket with a rubber seal and a metal structure. I can't even imagine messing with a flexible fibre gasket on this job. Not sure exactly how much fluid came out (a good amount), and put roughly 5L back in.

Looking at the same pan, I think the small one is the actual drain plug (takes a 5mm Allen key and is a bit blocked by the exhaust cross member), and the large one is attached to the plastic jobbie that, if I infer correctly, routes fluid over the magnets during operation, and I don't think is meant to be removed. I guess I'll find out when I do a drain and fill in about 15k (well overdue for a change, so want to maximize the amount of fresh fluid in the box now).

Does anyone else have thoughts on the question of the two drain plugs?
 

CRYA

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I reached the same conclusion as you and coincidentally also did the job about a week ago. It's the smaller plug that is the drain. You'll notice it's also lower in the pan than the big one. The big one has that lip higher in the pan so less fluid will be able to drain if you use it.
 

f1racer328

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Which pan/filter/kit did you guys purchase?

Mileage?
I'm planning this job and also want to do the mechatronic seals, as it doesn't seem like too much extra work.
 

CRYA

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103,000. I got mine from Lucky 8. I didn’t mind not using ZF fluid.
To me anything more than the fluid seemed like a lot. Took me about 5 hours as it was but I did it on my garage, no lift etc. Trying to do the sleeve for the plug looked like a **** when I could finally see what needed to be done. Like others, mine wasn’t leaking so I tossed the sleeve on the spare Rover parts bin.
 

mm3846

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I bought the cheaper kit from AB and all the hardware is rusting, so I don’t recommend that one.
 

f1racer328

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I bought the cheaper kit from AB and all the hardware is rusting, so I don’t recommend that one.
I was looking at the more expensive kit from AB and the only thing that looks different from the cheaper one is the gasket.
 

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