Engine oil analysis results on 2010 LR4 V8

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DirtyHal

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Attached is my first Oil Analysis, 130K on my motor, This is the first time I have used the OW-20 SpecialTec LR Liqui Moly. Prior to this oil change I used their Motor Oil Flush and then I used their Ceratec, and Motor Oil Saver products along with their Specialtec 0W-20 LR blend.

EDIT: Forgot to say I have a 2011 with the 5.0L v8

1.8.20 Oil Analysis.JPG
 
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Troy A

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I will add mine. 2013 LR4 at 82K miles. I love how flowery the comments are from the Blackstone team. I'm expecting the next one will say "good job, your oil has a great social life and is fun to hang out with!". :)
Blackstone Oil Report redacted.png

If anybody is interested, I could start a group shared Google doc and we could put all our data in there to see how it looks over a number of vehicles and model years...
 

callin

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2016 LR4 at 43K miles. First oil change since I've bought it, did it in my garage with help from the oil change thread here. The JLR shop I bought it from said the oil was changed when I bought it, so I'm assuming it was the JLR spec castrol. The new oil is the extended performance edge0W-20 (i.e. the gold bottle) since it was on sale at walmart and they didn't have the mobil 1 in stock. I plan on keeping the 6000-7000 mile OCI going forward
 

f1racer328

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Here’s another sample from my 2013 MY. I’ve been running Mobil 1 5W-20 EP since I got the vehicle at 40,000 miles.

FFF62DA8-358F-4605-8636-52DC4C74E145.jpeg
 

gsxr

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Forgot to post the analysis from spring 2022, see attached. Still using Red Line 5W-20. Numbers still look good. Next change will probably be at 140k (9kmi) later in 2023.

:driver:
 

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  • 2010_LR4_oil_analysis_131k_Apr-2022.pdf
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gsxr

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Finally have an update. We moved in 2022, and racked up a lot of miles on the LR4 while going back & forth multiple times for the move (700 miles each way). And, at our new place, I also didn't have a lift to make oil changes easy via the drain plug method, and I didn't own a vacuum extractor. So, I broke down and bought a JohnDow 6-gallon unit (link) for $235 delivered from Amazon. Full writeup on the JohnDow unit is here if you are interested. TLDR: I like it and think it was worth the price, and would recommend it if you're in the market, AND have a small air compressor.

This oil change interval ended up longer than anticipated at 11,000 miles over 16 months. Wear metals all look normal, which is a huge relief, as I discovered the Genuine LR oil filter from the dealership failed at some point! A portion of the filter medium/mesh broke away from the outer shell, allowing some unfiltered oil to circulate. I will get photos of the filter failure and add them here. I have no idea how long the filter had this "hole" in it, but that was unsettling. I also discovered what I believe are counterfeit "Genuine" oil filters being sold on eBay, allegedly made in Germany or UK, that may be garbage counterfeit filters - I should post a new thread on that topic.

Somewhere around 10kmi or so (spring 2023), the oil level showed lower than normal on the electronic display. IIRC after a change with 8 quarts, the display shows in the middle. Around 10k it was showing down 0.5 quart, and when I changed at 11k the display was showing down 1.0 quart. I never added oil since I was planning to change it anyway. If I had added oil, that would have boosted the TBN from the low-but-not-critical 1.5 level. You don't want TBN to go under 1.0, and adding a quart of oil boosts TBN with fresh additives in the new oil. In theory I could have gone closer to 15kmi but not having UOA data on Red Line beyond 6k, that didn't seem prudent. I wasn't happy about the Red Line "consuming" possibly a quart near the end of an 11k interval. I will try to remember to check the level more often to monitor this.

The next planned change will be at 150k (8kmi interval). Since Red Line prices shot up at the end of 2022 from ~$12/qt to ~$17/qt (link) !!!!!, I'm not sure if I will continue to feed this engine Red Line. If so, I might try to push the interval to 10k from here on out. If using lesser oil (Group III base stocks at $6-$7 per quart), I might change at 5kmi. Haven't decided yet, but Mobil-1 Extended Performance at $6/qt (link) is pretty enticing, even if I have to change it more often.

:hmmmm:
 

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  • 2010_LR4_oil_analysis_142k_2023-July.pdf
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ktm525

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Two things. 1) Don't buy auto parts off of ebay. 2) I suggest Mobil 5W-20 EP high mileage. A little seal conditioner at those miles is not a bad idea unless you like weeping valve covers and vacuum pumps :)
 

gsxr

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Two things. 1) Don't buy auto parts off of ebay.
Totally agree! I was trying to find a source for Genuine Land Rover oil filters, as the online dealers seem to be vanishing rapidly... the few that remain seem to all have outrageous shipping fees, and none offer free shipping on orders over X dollars. Poking around eBay, I found what appeared to be Genuine LR filters with labels that appeared legit, and both the label & filter said Made in Germany (or UK). AFAICT, these are flat out counterfeits... not old stock as I originally thought. I did NOT buy anything from eBay sellers. I've only purchased oil filters from the LR dealership.


2) I suggest Mobil 5W-20 EP high mileage. A little seal conditioner at those miles is not a bad idea unless you like weeping valve covers and vacuum pumps :)
Valve covers are still dry, and I replaced the vacuum pump a year or two ago because I was tired of the oil leak. The new style vac pump has been dry. I do have oil weeping from the back though, possibly rear main seal, or oil level sender? It's not enough to drip on the floor even after 11kmi, so I'm not losing sleep over it, yet.

:driver:
 

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