Auxiliary chain and sprocket change

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Rover Range

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Once you lock the the flywheel.
Insert the fuel pump alignment tool.
If it doesn't line up, remove the aux chain tensioner.
There's enough slack in the chain that you can take a pick and "walk" the chain around the the fuel pump sprocket. Keep inserting the fuel pump alignment tool until it lines up. Then reinstall the tensioner.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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Might take this job on myself, my fuel pump jumped time.

@Thepuckstopshere

@Rover Range

Can you guys give me any useful guidance tips or ideas to get this job done without removing the oil sump.

I have never attempted a job like this but am too invested in this car to just sell it so any guidance would be amazing.

I get that I must buy a tool to time the fuel pumps properly but any guidance on how to do it without pulling the oil sump and what other tools I will need throughout the journey.

Thanks!
 

Rover Range

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Once you pull the lower timing cover off, you will see the fuel pump drive chain.

Getting the crank pulley bolt off is a chore. I bought a 3/4" breaker bar at Northern Tool just to break these loose.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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Once you pull the lower timing cover off, you will see the fuel pump drive chain.

Getting the crank pulley bolt off is a chore. I bought a 3/4" breaker bar at Northern Tool just to break these loose.

I have jack stands and a jack, but am I going to need a lift of any kind or do any work under the car? I saw you mention something about the flywheel
 

sdtim

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Might take this job on myself, my fuel pump jumped time.

@Thepuckstopshere

@Rover Range

Can you guys give me any useful guidance tips or ideas to get this job done without removing the oil sump.

I have never attempted a job like this but am too invested in this car to just sell it so any guidance would be amazing.

I get that I must buy a tool to time the fuel pumps properly but any guidance on how to do it without pulling the oil sump and what other tools I will need throughout the journey.

Thanks!
I just replaced the auxiliary tensioner without dropping the oil sump. It was annoying, but not too difficult. I was doing the timing as well, so the car was already apart. It REALLY made me wonder why the LR engineers didn't factor in an access hole to remove the bolt.

Removal
1. I made a special tool - pounded out the bit out of a T45 torx socket, trimmed the torx bit to make it as short as possible, taped it into the end of a 5/16 wrench
2. Use the special tool to break it loose, then needle nose or 90deg pliers to back it out until it's out of the threads
3. Pry the bolt and tensioner out - requires a bit of force (make sure nothing drops into the oil pan. watch out for the spring to go flying)

Installation
1. Install a nut on the new bolt, trim ~1/4" off the end of the bolt. Run the nut on and off the bolt until it threads as smoothly as possible.
2. On the new tensioner, use a zip tie to secure the sprint tensioner close to the body (this helps with clearance)
3. Make sure the bold is as clean as possible (you want to avoid tool slippage)
4. Install the bolt into the tensioner and place a small drop of oil on the tip of the bolt
5. Holding the top edge of the tensioner, fish the assembly back in place (may take a few tries)
6. Start the threads - I used a pick in the center of the bolt to hold it in place
7. Cut and remove the zip tie
6. Tighten the bolt - I used a combination of needlenose & hose grip pliers, and the tool I made
 

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sdtim

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You'll also need the fuel pump timing tool when you realign the auxiliary chain.


1679525000639.png


You'll also need a crankshaft puller/installer for the LR4 engine. You might be able to remove it would a loaner tool, but re-installing is going to be an issue without the proper tool.


1679525723403.png
 
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Jimmy Brooks

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I just replaced the auxiliary tensioner without dropping the oil sump. It was annoying, but not too difficult. I was doing the timing as well, so the car was already apart. It REALLY made me wonder why the LR engineers didn't factor in an access hole to remove the bolt.

Removal
1. I made a special tool - pounded out the bit out of a T45 torx socket, trimmed the torx bit to make it as short as possible, taped it into the end of a 5/16 wrench
2. Use the special tool to break it loose, then needle nose or 90deg pliers to back it out until it's out of the threads
3. Pry the bolt and tensioner out - requires a bit of force (make sure nothing drops into the oil pan. watch out for the spring to go flying)

Installation
1. Install a nut on the new bolt, trim ~1/4" off the end of the bolt. Run the nut on and off the bolt until it threads as smoothly as possible.
2. On the new tensioner, use a zip tie to secure the sprint tensioner close to the body (this helps with clearance)
3. Make sure the bold is as clean as possible (you want to avoid tool slippage)
4. Install the bolt into the tensioner and place a small drop of oil on the tip of the bolt
5. Holding the top edge of the tensioner, fish the assembly back in place (may take a few tries)
6. Start the threads - I used a pick in the center of the bolt to hold it in place
7. Cut and remove the zip tie
6. Tighten the bolt - I used a combination of needlenose & hose grip pliers, and the tool I made

Did you pull the front bumper and radiator to do the job or did you just remove the fan and casing around it and reach in there yourself?
 

sdtim

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I used a universal crankshaft pully removal kit to remove the pully and didn't remove the radiator. However, when I used the LR kit (mentioned in my previous post) I DID have to remove the radiator. The installer bolt is too long to fit with the radiator installed.

The shop manual says you need to disconnect the AC lines, but I was able to leave them intact, detach the other cooling elements, and remove just the radiator. There are 6 screws (3 on each side) on the front side that attach the other elements to the radiator. The front grill unclips, providing access to the bolts. Take your time and be VERY gentle so you don't damage anything.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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I used a universal crankshaft pully removal kit to remove the pully and didn't remove the radiator. However, when I used the LR kit (mentioned in my previous post) I DID have to remove the radiator. The installer bolt is too long to fit with the radiator installed.

The shop manual says you need to disconnect the AC lines, but I was able to leave them intact, detach the other cooling elements, and remove just the radiator. There are 6 screws (3 on each side) on the front side that attach the other elements to the radiator. The front grill unclips, providing access to the bolts. Take your time and be VERY gentle so you don't damage anything.

Would it be easier if I pulled the condenser and the bumper so I could gain access to the auxiliary chain easier?

Just confused on how you did all the careful tensioner work on the aux chain by reaching thought the top of the engine. Seems like it would be too awkward but maybe I’m wrong
 

sdtim

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I did the timing chains/guides/tensioners and the aux tensioner and didn’t have any trouble, even with the radiator in place. It might be easier with access through the grill, but it could also be equally awkward depending on the distance and angle. Plus, you’d have to disconnect the AC line a which would require a recharge.
 

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