Suspension Fault Issues

Thanks for the good advice. My sense is it's a balance. You don't want to go "chasing problems on an LR4", but you don't want to ignore things that could be a real problem (even if they seem small). For instance, I've got a cowl ordered through my local independent glass shop (family owned, been here forever, and highly respected). They are going to replace the one I have because it isn't fully secured to the base of the windshield and I have been told that can allow water in through the pollen filter. I don't need soaked wiring and electrical problems or water damage to the interior.

The poor man's diagnostic tool longtrail mentioned seems like a great idea. I've been asking folks I trust with mechanical backgrounds about diagnostic tools. Their general take is they can point you in the right direction, but rarely are precise enough to tell you the specific nature of the problem. They work best in experienced hands that can guess what's likely wrong. Even then, you still have to start wrenching on the rig to uncover what's really going on. I'm not a mechanic or an electrician or a computer programmer but, for $49, it would be worth it to get an idea of what's up and pass that along to my local shop that has the tools and experience to fix it.

Just bought the IIDTool on Amazon. Thanks again, longtrail.

The tool on amazon isn't the IID tool, but an alternative. The IID tool only works on Land Rovers, but it gives you a wealth of information. You can then decide which are worth chasing and which aren't. For example, it told me my passenger side puddle light was out - easy fix, it had been unplugged when a glass monkey ripped the door panel off when replacing the door glass. I also have an intermittent GPS antenna error, and I checked the connection behind the head unit, but no dice. The next fix is to replace the antenna module, but that's under the 3rd brake light, which is glued on. So that one stays.

The cheap diagnostic tool should give me a taste. If that leads to a larger appetite, I'm only out $49 and will spring for the proper diagnostic tool.

Just curious, has anyone tapped into the air line after the valve block as a countermeasure to: a) compressor failure or b) valve block malfunction? Was thinking that might be a good idea, maybe. Any thoughts from our seasoned LR/RR veterans?

BigBriDogGuy said:

The cheap diagnostic tool should give me a taste. If that leads to a larger appetite, I'm only out $49 and will spring for the proper diagnostic tool.

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It will give you many codes that the IIDTool will so it's definitely a good starting point; in the aforementioned post I provided some of the graphs that the tool can provide; so opening and closing of valves. For $49 that pretty darn good and at least gets you in the OBD game! Keep us posted BigBriDigGuy on how you get on?

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San Moritz LR4 said:

Just curious, has anyone tapped into the air line after the valve block as a countermeasure to: a) compressor failure or b) valve block malfunction? Was thinking that might be a good idea, maybe. Any thoughts from our seasoned LR/RR veterans?

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I wouldn't do it. It'll just add more points of failure and complexity to the whole thing. You'll have to plan for leaks at the drier, compressor, air tank, all 3 valve blocks, and air struts. You'll probably want to add a ball valve after the valve block and a tee with schrader valve to air up before the air strut.

Instead, it's easier to make your own schrader valves connected to 6mm air line tubing. In an emergency, replace the airlines with these emergency bypasses to air up each corner manually.

Thanks. I will embrace the KISS principle.

Got the cheapo unit today and synced it up with the vehicle. It did come back with some faults. Since @Longtrail recommended it and has used it maybe he can point out which direction is North. Reading various posts, it seems the first step most people take is to clear all the faults and see which ones come back. The app allowed me to generate and save a PDF of the faults on the first read. That's my baseline. Guess I could try reading the owner's manual, give that a try.

You're bang on the money, reset all the codes and then see which ones keep coming back... Once you've got some consistent ones then start trying to figure out what's causing them. For example, mine kept having a mirror code issue, figuring it wasn't that important I ignored it until I had time/motivation to take a look, it ended up that the mirrors needed replacing which was super simple and cheap. Morale of the story - KISS and worry about the important things first!

CHECK THE 60A FUSE COMPRESSOR
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Fault C1A27-14 fixed​