LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

timc930 said:

Thanks, just ordered something similar, thank you.

tim

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So I actually ordered Gearwrench Torx bits that fit in a box wrench. Made it very easy to access remove/install the Torx bolts under the front and rear frame. Also able to use various length ratcheting flex head wrenches.

Yes, thanks, but what about the actual torque wrench itself?
The one I used was crazy expensive and was total junk, dead at the end of just this one little project.

txfromwi said:

Yes, thanks, but what about the actual torque wrench itself?
The one I used was crazy expensive and was total junk, dead at the end of just this one little project.

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Can you post a link to the Summit torque wrench that failed? Any chance it's still under warranty?

Doubtful that it's still under warranty and at that time I did not bother as I had bigger fish to fry.
But I need to get to this project on the 2013 and then eventually on the 2015 and need another vendor for the torque wrench!

Here is what I purchased, I see it's about half the price now vs what I paid back then.

The electronics is ok, but the gearing in the head is total cr@@.
After that one little job there is only one point / tooth that still engages.

Just a note, the model I purchased does not beep - that was a cost saving but I would highly advise purchasing a beeping torque wrench as being required to see that display makes it even more challenging.

Amazon:​

Summit Tools Bit-Head Digital Torque Wrench, 1/4 inch Drive Adopter, 0.74-14.75 ft-lbs Range, Measure Peak Torque, Compact Size, Calibrated (BMS2-020CN-S)​

Found it (link below). I thought it was a Summit Racing tool, but nope, it's an off-brand and I can't find the manufacturer's website. Almost appears to be an Amazon house brand?

Often there are repair kits available for the ratchet head, but you'd need to try and contact the manufacturer for info. You could also take the ratchet head apart and see if you can find out what's wrong with it. Could be a failed spring or something else simple.

gearwrench makes nice budget torque wrenches.

ktm525 said:

gearwrench makes nice budget torque wrenches.

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I ended up dumping all of my old Craftsman torque wrenches when I started having problems with the handle torque adjustment on two of them and purchased 3 CDI to cover 6-250lbs, then I bought a Precision Instruments that I use specifically for M8 around 18lbs. I read a lot of excellent reviews on "The Garage Journal", excellent information there.

txfromwi said:

What torque wrench did you use?

I used a Summit brand torque wrench that directly fits those T40 bits and is small enough to get in there, but the gears in the head were absolute crap and the wrench lasted only through this one project.

Any other ideas before I start this project on the 2013 6spd?

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I did not use a torque wrench, all by feel using a very short ratchet (and short wrench for the ones under the frame) so that I would not over tighten, should be only 10nm. (50 years of 911 valve cover nuts at 6lbs gave me a pretty good feel)

Good Morning!

On the 6 speed transmission, 6HP28 on the 2013 V8.

i found an interesting set of websites.
They take me down a rabbit hole of "you really should",
but I hear my grandfathers voice in my head "If it ain't broke don't fix it"

Looking for your opinions on dropping the mechatronic and replacing 5 seals when doing the pan replacement.


The first one looks to be (poorly formatted) but good information.
https://www.bavlogic.com/?p=3738
He recommends changing the mechatronic adapter seal (mechatronic bridge seal) at 60K miles.

Then I found these two websites (good videos and info) for a guy doing the job on an Aston Martin - on a 6HP26, not our 6HP28, but only very minor differences - looks like the actual work is child's play - but he can actually get in there oh so easily and of course, well, we can't.
Mechatronic bridge seal and 4 valve seals.

Your thoughts on doing this? Thanks!

Whole heartedly, YES! If you're doing the pan, drop the mechatronic and replace the bridge seal, 4 tube seals and canon plug seal. The bridge seals are notorious for leaking and bleeding line pressure...same with the tube seals. Between the fluid and seals, I noticed a HUGE improvement in my transmission when I did this maintenance....and that was before I put the zip kit into the mechatronic.

Can you please clarify what you mean by Canon Plug Seal?

Thanks.