Our diffs are the same (non-locking)
I use Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75w-90, 2 bottles @ $16/ea on amazon.
Front: .69L, Rear: 1.16L
Easy DIY job using gravity and a long tube/funnel, or a cheap hand pump
See post 9 in this tread - it's all there.
- pull out entire aux panel with flip lid - unplug wires
- gut contents, stick the new BT panel into old circuit's space - push wires out so you can solder/crimp
- mate wires from vehicle to appropriate BT panel...
As far as I know, my 2007 is still running its original compressor
No record of previous owners replacing it
I completely refreshed it at 120k, now have 170k
If it ever dies, I will replace with same for sure
I just did this - for a grand total of $17 I now have "factory" BT streaming audio!
$11 for BT, and $6 for a new AUX plug. This item fits the 3/8" hole perfectly:
Could not be happier! Completely hidden, auto-on/off, easy connection, OEM sound quality...
when you buy a new key at a dealer, you provide your VIN and then LR makes/sends a key for that vehicle.
There may be independent shops that can do this for you also - I think there is one here in California who has done it for customers for less $ than dealers charge.
I suggest maybe trying...
most likely - depending HOW cheap your eBay special was - you got a dud.
what is the seller's return policy?
What is damaged on your original? More than just o-rings I assume?
I would trust a used/junkyard valve block over unknown brands, then refresh with a new o-ring kit.
might save you some...
- do you smell coolant?
- is your level good, do you need top-ups?
- is the engine overheating?
- when was the thermostat last changed?
- how is your water pump?
(btw: you could still have trapped air, LR3s are difficult to purge)
My spare tire is in right now, so can't easily get a look for you - maybe someone w/o a spare in can confirm?
But the little pin you just circled is definitely not your "rusted plug of concern".
That little release pin on the front (that pops the D-shape pin out) is inaccessible to welding once...
That's not the pin.
Directly below your red arrow is a D shaped pin in a rectangular hole.
Between the safety chain loops, very low on the hitch receptacle.
That D shaped pin is the part that retracts.
Seeing how crusty your seems to be, a few taps on the pin should maybe loosen it.
Just following the manual would be a good start?
Castrol 5w30, every 7,500 miles.
Or follow your friend's schedule/spec.
Or use whatever GF3 5w30 you like.
Mann, Mahle, Wix filters are good.
Mine is getting higher mileage so I do Castrol GTX every 5k.
And Wix for price/local availability.
To help anyone else with this problem ending up here:
I JUST did this last week.
You must remove the door panel to gain access to remove the switch plugs.
It is not hard, just 8 screws and a bunch of clips around perimeter. See:
My master switches for the rear stopped working.
I started by...
Dealers also probably charge more for the compressor itself
R&R is pretty straightforward - it won't take you 5-6hrs - unless something breaks
Usually the little captive nuts, but hopefully your compressor came with them (RYH500170)
Just make sure you have no leaks at the hose connections . ...