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  1. M

    V8 short drive belt replacement

    Following on from my 'water pump failure' post below. So the serpentine belt is showing cracks, so am replacing it while replacing the broken idler pulley. I have a new short drive belt, the stretch fit one. I offered it up and it looks woefully short. Before I cut the old one off (looks okay...
  2. M

    Does this sound like a failing water pump?

    So my wife reported "the car is making an odd sound" when she drove it today (2010 V8, 180k km, new engine at ~80k km from LR). I just went out and it is making a horrible screech-grinding nose from the fan area. Revved it a bit and no change in noise. Does this sound like the water pump...
  3. M

    Brake bleed question

    So after noticing that it was 3yrs since last brake fluid change, I proceeded to complete it today, ignoring Land Rover manual procedure. Used a mityvac vacuum gun on each corner. Worked fine and replenished the system with 1.5L of DOT 4. Two things I noticed: 1. When I sucked out the old fluid...
  4. M

    Slack seat belt tensioners?

    So, my 2010 has had generally slack seat belt tensioners since we got it at 60k miles, witness the scarred passenger interior door trim from the buckle getting slammed in the door. Have made do with spraying belts periodically with silicone spray to improve slipperiness, but effectiveness...
  5. M

    Dreaded rear hatch actuator issue!

    2010 model: So I have read a number of accounts of rear hatch actuator issues with varying symptoms. Before I throw $$ at it and order parts I would be grateful if anyone can give me additional insight to pinpoint likely malfunctioning part(s). Out of the blue today I could only open the rear...
  6. M

    Rear parking sensor system failure

    Hi, So the rear parking sensor system on my 2010 has totally failed. Put it in reverse and the parking sensor dash button flashes several times and then goes out. No beeping from sensors at back (or front). Over past 24 months have replaced all four sensors at the back with non-OEM parts. When...
  7. M

    Starting issue

    Hi, 2010 V8 105k miles. A couple of times over the past 6 months you go to start it and there's a click and nothing else. Repeat starting a few times and all okay. Has now happened several times over past 24hrs. This morning also turned over for a fraction of a second, before faltering and then...
  8. M

    Workshop service manual for north american 2010 LR4 V8

    Hi, I have bought two $20 download manuals online and both have various issues (missing figures, poor formatting etc.). Can anyone kindly recommend a reliable source for the full LR workshop manual?
  9. M

    Air compressor hose disconnection????

    So.........trying to take out the Hitachi compressor on my 2010. I cannot get the two air lines equipped with metal quick connect fittings to release at the rear of the unit? Squirted with WD40, tried placing an open ended wrench head and pressing it against the quick release while pulling on...
  10. M

    LR bolt specs?

    Hi, Bolt size specs have always been a mystery to me. I am in Canada so we have north American sizing systems and also metric. LR bolts take metric spanners so obvs metric sized bolts, but is there more than one metric system? I ask because the lower air compressor bolt that holds the plastic...
  11. M

    Correct procedure for checking transmission fluid level on 2010 LR4 URGENT! :(

    Hi, Relating to my earlier post. On Monday departing on 6k km road trip. Noticed transmission oil leak and decided to check level with engine turned off. Gingerely removed filler plug and fluid gushed out! Oh dear.......... can only find links to LR3 procedure for checking level which involves...
  12. M

    Transmission oil leak........

    Hi, So obvs 2 days before leaving on a 6k km road trip I notice what appears to be a tranny fluid leak. The leak appears to be coming from beyond the front of the pan. The lower section of the gearbox housing appears damp. The fluid is moving backwards resulting in the front half of the pan...
  13. M

    Rear brake pad weirdness and EPB repair mutterings

    So, Just replaced rear pads on my 2010 V8 LR4. Last done with rotors (brembo pads and rotors) 12k miles ago. Both sides were kinda whacky with uneven pad wear. I had same issue with front drivers side pads, but that was due to one siezed slider pin. Slider pins at back sliding nicely. I took...
  14. M

    Rebuild hitachi compressor or buy new aftermarket compressor?

    Hi, Getting intermittant code indicating compressor is on its way out. $CAD 110 for rebuild kit, or $CAD 300 for generic new pump. Has anyone experience of rebuilding them re. Ease and continuing fault codes after seals and desiccant replaced?
  15. M

    C1A20-64 Fault (normal ride height only)

    Hi, 2010 V8, 100k miles. Getting an intermittant fault code and dash message. Seems compressor on its way out, and/or desiccant issues? Has anyone thats been through this have any tips? I gather mine should have a Hitachi type unit. Can't be bothered rebuilding existing compressor, so would...
  16. M

    2011 to 2016 LR4 touchscreen display unit

    Used item. Its off a 2016 and does not fit a 2010 as I found out! Please check part number to ensure it fits your vehicle before purchasing. $CAD 350 plus shipping from Toronto, Canada.
  17. M

    Not a repair I was expecting:)

    Noticed the tailgate 3rd brake light seemed higher at one end. Whacked it to re-engage presumed clip retainers to no effect. Closer examination shows the plastic brake light unit is glued in place and lifting off at one end. Ordered windshield urethane adhesive and will wait for warmer weather...
  18. M

    2010 V8 serpentine and accessory belt replacement

    Approaching 100k miles and think the belts should be replaced as PM. Any tips on doing this? Tools for fan removal? I would think worth replacing tensioner pulley and idler pulleys at same time?
  19. M

    Prolonged engine choke operation when starting from cold

    Hi, Not a major issue, but wondering if easy fix? Have noticed this winter on cold startup the revs are staying at 1,200rpm when I shift into drive resulting in a bit of a jolt as drive engages. If I blip the gas before engaging drive, revs stay at 1,200rpm instead of non-choke 600rpm. In...
  20. M

    When is it time to say goodbye?

    Just doing my 2021 taxes. My 2010 V8, 100k miles cost $CAD 5k in repairs in 2021. You can add in another $CAD575 for tools. A friend leases a RAV4 for $CAD4,800 a year. Only maintenance is oil changes :( The cost-benefit of ownership is naturally on a declining curve. No major breakages in...
  21. M

    Spare tire low pressure warning

    So I got the spare tire low pressure warning and checked the pressure. It was 40psi vs. 60psi. Pumped it up, but annoying warning remains (havent rechecked to see if it has deflated again mind you). Is there a way to disable this with the IID tool?
  22. M

    Intermittant steering 'rattle' noise on full lock?

    Hi, 2010 LR4 with 100k miles. Twice over the past week the steering has made an odd rattle noise on full lock. Sounds like I have run over a flimsy piece of metal. Wife has heard it too when she was driving it. Only happens occasionally so far. PS fluid changed with OEM a month back. Otherwise...
  23. M

    2010 upstream O2 sensor replacement - any tips?

    Just pondering replacing the upstream O2 sensors. Looks straightforward-ish in the manual. Had a quick look under the vehicle. LH side could not quite see the nut which holds on the elec connector cover - is this better accessed from the side with the front wheel off? Any tips? Have not done...
  24. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    So........ girded my ***** and am in the middle of replacing the LCA's on my 2010. Drivers side LCA bolts all undone (had to cut one). Ready to remove it, but not enough clearance between the ball joint and the drive shaft. Had read this is an issue on earlier vehicles. Pop the drive shaft out...
  25. M

    Front LCA replacement - ball joint separation

    2010 LR4 - planning to do front LCA bushings using new LCA's. Just wondering whether separating the ball joint by whacking the steering knuckle with a hammer is a reliable method of separating the ball joint, or should I get a ball joint tool / pickle fork - if so, any thoughts on tool size...

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