I found the leak a while back it was the bleeder on the front driver. Replaced the fluid and it has held for two weeks with no issues. The red brake light won’t turn off. There were some videos online about resetting the lights, but I have been unsuccessful. Anyone have an idea on how to do...
Had my brakes done a month or so ago. Shop that did it bled the brakes. Didn’t figure this out till the light came on and found a puddle in the garage.
Filled it back up with the correct DOT fluid. Top is full, but the light won’t turn off. All pads are wearing evenly the best I can tell...
I grabbed one off rock auto the other day, but haven’t been home long enough to take it off.
Rotors, brakes, plugs, coolant cross over tube. Then this mystery..... Not to bad for 140k
So there is a cv joint noise... doesn’t sound the same. It is intermittent, doesn’t get worse with turning the wheel. Sounds almost like something is taping, I pulled the wheel off, changed the rotors and brakes on both sides. Nothing feels loose, looks cracked or anything of the sort...
She is up and running. Trapped air was the fix. Also ran a can of sea foam through her to make her feel good about her new plastic she gets to work on destroying.
The two rings beside it, is where it broke.
2010 Lr4 140K
So I replaced my coolant cross over pipe today under the manifold. Hooked everything up. Took it on the street I live on. No leaks, it just says it's running hot. And shows a high temp.
1. Air pocket?
2. Thermostat?
3. Or something else.
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