2005 LR3

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Crewdog

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I just purchased a 2005 LR3 for a decent price, it has the dreaded suspension issue. I do a fair amount of maintenance on my cars. The issue I have is the compressor comes on for about 5-8 seconds then turns off and displays a suspension fault ride height normal only with amber light. I know the previous owner replaced the driver front air shock and the air suspension module. What diagnostic tool should I buy, will it pinpoint the problem? Do I continue replacing the Air Shocks to get it right, or go ahead and replace with shock struts.

Thanks,
 

Shaggy

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I just purchased a 2005 LR3 for a decent price, it has the dreaded suspension issue. I do a fair amount of maintenance on my cars. The issue I have is the compressor comes on for about 5-8 seconds then turns off and displays a suspension fault ride height normal only with amber light. I know the previous owner replaced the driver front air shock and the air suspension module. What diagnostic tool should I buy, will it pinpoint the problem? Do I continue replacing the Air Shocks to get it right, or go ahead and replace with shock struts.

Thanks,

Welcome to the forum. How long ago did the or owner change the shock?
 

Crewdog

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Thank you, I am not sure how long ago it was replaced. I finally have some time today to get a good look at it I will keep you posted. Should I get it up in the air and take a look, or have diagnostic run on it first?
 

ktm525

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I would get a proper LR diagnostic run on it rather than just throw parts at it. I am betting compressor.
 

Ian Morrison

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I just purchased a 2005 LR3 for a decent price, it has the dreaded suspension issue. I do a fair amount of maintenance on my cars. The issue I have is the compressor comes on for about 5-8 seconds then turns off and displays a suspension fault ride height normal only with amber light. I know the previous owner replaced the driver front air shock and the air suspension module. What diagnostic tool should I buy, will it pinpoint the problem? Do I continue replacing the Air Shocks to get it right, or go ahead and replace with shock struts.

Thanks,
Hi, I too have a Land Rover Discovery 3, 2.7TDV6, HSE. To date I’ve replaced the whole of the rear suspension, Replaced All The Discs, Pads, Callipers and pipe work. I’ve got 2 fault diagnostic machines. The First and best I think is the Bearmach HawkEye Total Diagnostic Tool. This is great. You can calibrate your Handbrake and many other calibrations too. It’s also good after you service your car as you can reset you service light. It can read and reset all your fault codes and do live streaming. The 2nd tool I’ve got is the Lynx Evo Fault Code diagnostic tool which you link to your phone. I leave mine in my glove box so if anything goes wrong while driving it’s with me. Both are excellent tools and have helped me out of trouble. I also brought a book called EOBD Code Breaker By Peter Coombes. This tells you virtually every code your diagnostic tool reads, what this means and usually where too look. Finally had your Land Rover ever had water ingress in the drivers footwell or passenger footwell. Many of the faults you are mentioning are usually caused by water ingress caused by water damaging the wiring/ Connectors in you car footwell or behind dashboard . Hope this helps.
 

m_lars

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I just purchased a 2005 LR3 for a decent price, it has the dreaded suspension issue. I do a fair amount of maintenance on my cars. The issue I have is the compressor comes on for about 5-8 seconds then turns off and displays a suspension fault ride height normal only with amber light. I know the previous owner replaced the driver front air shock and the air suspension module. What diagnostic tool should I buy, will it pinpoint the problem? Do I continue replacing the Air Shocks to get it right, or go ahead and replace with shock struts.

Thanks,
I’ve got the Bluetooth version of the Gaptool. I like it and recommend it. It won’t pinpoint air leaks, but there are other threads on here that can help with that. Obviously you’ll never know why that compressor shuts down for sure until you pull the codes, but if he had a previous leak and still the original compressor, it’s probably shot. If that’s the case, my recommendation is go straight to an OEM AMK. I tried the aftermarket route, don’t make the same mistakes I did!
 

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