2011 Coolant leak + I broke the oil cooler hoses

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Untyped

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What a stupid day...
I have noticed that I had a very tiny leak of coolant from the overflow hose at the end closer to the engine due to a homemade hose made by the previous owner in which a 90-degree turn was made and caused it to crack and leak slowly.

I decided to order an aftermarket hose from Amazon with almost the original bends as the OEM since I am cheap and shipping to Canada is always ridiculous. I ordered and installed it with some elbow grease and noticed on start that there is a bigger leak now somewhere in the middle of the engine looking from under... I couldn't trace it because in the process of trying to trace it, I f'd up something else...

Jacked the car from the front subframe with a regular hydraulic jack and got crooked so I lowered it back with the jack since the suspension released some air, the front got lower and in that time I pinched somehow the two aluminum hoses going to the OIL cooler...so a bunch of fluid leaked out... maybe 100ml? Now in the process of finding those two pipes, the bigger question is how do I add fluid and what should be the fluid (the ATF I am talking about)? I don't want to do a full flush...The car shifts fine and no issues with tranny.

Also, where could the coolant leak be? This should not be the common crosspipe issue... wouldn't make sense to leak that badly after replacing a coolant hose for the overflow....

So now I can't start the car to continue tracing the coolant leak since the oil cooler hoses are completely exposed.

Is there any way of checking the ATF fluid level?
 

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itsaguything

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Well... this is a state of affairs.
Once you get the piping corrected, the only way of confirming the transmission fluid level is to get the engine and transmission up to operating temperature. You should really look at the workshop manual. Details for filling the transmission are included there or in the zf.com document. I have no idea which model of the LR4 you have. There are 2 distinct transmission depending on MY.

The only way I know of checking for leaks is to run a pressure test.
 

Untyped

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Well... this is a state of affairs.
Once you get the piping corrected, the only way of confirming the transmission fluid level is to get the engine and transmission up to operating temperature. You should really look at the workshop manual. Details for filling the transmission are included there or in the zf.com document. I have no idea which model of the LR4 you have. There are 2 distinct transmission depending on MY.

The only way I know of checking for leaks is to run a pressure test.
Thanks! Will report back
 

Longtrail

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I have the ZF document if you need it (PM me with your email address and I'll send it over), I just went through a transmission oil change and also the filling procedure. Note that when you do the refill it's really important to use the ZF fluid.

A leak around the middle V of the engine points to:
- Front crossover pipe (these need doing somewhere between 60 and 100k miles)
- Water pump
- Water pump to oil cooler (quite common as the seals fail)
- A few hoses in that vicinity

It's all quite doable. Good luck.
 

Untyped

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I have the ZF document if you need it (PM me with your email address and I'll send it over), I just went through a transmission oil change and also the filling procedure. Note that when you do the refill it's really important to use the ZF fluid.

A leak around the middle V of the engine points to:
- Front crossover pipe (these need doing somewhere between 60 and 100k miles)
- Water pump
- Water pump to oil cooler (quite common as the seals fail)
- A few hoses in that vicinity

It's all quite doable. Good luck.
Thanks!! I will PM you once I confirm the oil level. Just changed the damaged hoses...

And I believe I found the coolant leak. It's from the 90-degree plastic thingy right of the throttle body... This is 99.9% one of the reasons and I hope the only one. Looking with a flashlight under the manifold everything is looking completely dry and dusty. I am somewhat positive that these were done or still haven't failed.

But here is the next issue... Looks like in 2013 the design for that little hose changed.. From 8A557A to 8A577B and what plugs to that hole right of the throttle body is 8555C... I am not sure how to proceed...What baffles me is that the new design 8A577B now has an open port. There is nothing to plug there? Wouldn't coolant just spit out? Is that fitting tapped?

I think I will order both; the new design from Amazon and the brass 90-degree connector. I managed to pull out the plastic one from the plastic hose but another thing baffled me.... inside there was a tiny orange ball. Is that some check valve?

Attaching pictures of my findings.
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Longtrail

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That 120 degree connector is actually blocked on the new assembly, watch this video as it helped me a lot:


Here's where Rover Range spotted a mistake I made during my recent Timing Chain endeavor (read the thread to get the background!):


Let me know if you need better photos and I'll go take some. I just sent you an email with transmission details.
 

Untyped

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That 120 degree connector is actually blocked on the new assembly, watch this video as it helped me a lot:


Here's where Rover Range spotted a mistake I made during my recent Timing Chain endeavor (read the thread to get the background!):


Let me know if you need better photos and I'll go take some. I just sent you an email with transmission details.
I got the answer!!! Thanks so much!
Just sent you my cooling system parts list, here's a snippet of that spreadsheet:

View attachment 25627
And thanks for this!
 

Untyped

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An update...


Did replace the two hoses I damaged with genuine LR ones and tranny seems to shift fine... don't want to check oil level right now. Not the greatest weather. Will I get some kind of warning for low tranny oil?

Also the coolant leak was from the plastic 90 degree connector... I broke it while installing the overflow apparently... got a $13 brass one from Amazon and $3 coolant hose from NAPA to fix it. Will replace with the new design once weather improves.

All seems good so far. Haven't driven thy much but just around neighborhood and idling for 10 mins or so, thermostat works and I do get hot air in the cabin. Did a quick pressure test to 15psi and did hold.
 

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