1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

2011 LR4 Pricing

Discussion in 'LR4' started by Seabassjfr, Sep 26, 2020.

  1. Seabassjfr

    Seabassjfr Member

    Age:
    28
    Posts:
    19
    Likes Received:
    18
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2020
    Location:
    Seattle, Wa
    Hey there! Hopefully to be part of this community soon, Im currently in process of buying a 2011 LR4 5.0L Gas V8 with 168,000 Miles on the odometer, With BFG KO3 All Terrain Tires,Johnson Rod Lift Kit, and Compomotive 18 Inch Custom Wheels. Im located in the PNW and Expecting to use as only vehicle for off road expeditions and highway traveling. Ill be adding a few other mods for overlanding up here.

    Overall the vehicle seems pretty well maintained and taken care of... Any suggestion what a fair price for a vehicle like this would be? according to my research book value is between 10k - 13k range, and any other considerations that i should look?, aside overall check.

    Thank you for your help!
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2020
    Michigan00 and Troy Angrignon like this.
  2. SkyTree

    SkyTree Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Age:
    30
    Posts:
    47
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2020
    Location:
    Southern California
    Hey there, and welcome!

    Firstly, congratulations on considering an LR4. There are few vehicles out there that can come close to competing with it's onroad prowess, offroad capability, and superior comfort and apportionments. That being said, depending on how it was treated before you buy, it could be the best vehicle you've ever owned or one of the most headache inducing.

    Do you happen to have a Carfax or vehicle history available for the one you are looking into buying? If so, post the link and I'll take a look.

    As a quick side... with that mileage, I would not pay more than $10K personally, though if it is really well maintained and certain work has been done over it's history, I might be willing to pay a little more.

    To start the convo off though, a couple pointers that I would consider "must do" before even considering buying...

    1) If there isn't a Carfax history available from the Seller, please, please take down the VIN and spend the $40 and buy one. This will give you a lot of important information such as major repairs, reported accidents, and maintainance schedules.

    2) Where did it spend most of it's life previously? If it has a bunch of rust on the bottom, avoid it entirely. The suspension system is complex on the LR4 and rusted out parts don't get fixed, they get replaced ($$$). Something as simple as a brake job can turn into sheared off bolts and all sorts of nonsense when rust is involved.

    3) How did the previous owner use it? Did they offroad every weekend? Did they sit in stop and go urban traffic everyday? Did they mostly drive on the highway over 55mph every day?
    Note: the Compomotive wheels and J-Rods are a little niche in the Land Rover community, not the typical mall crawler or stock wheels on 90% of Rovers out there. This tells me the previous owner probably beat it up a bit because they wanted to run larger than stock tires with more sidewall, which the Compomotives and Rods provide obviously. This could also indicate though that the previous owner really knew their stuff about this truck, and possibly took good care of it. Hard to say without a vehicle history.


    4) This is one of the more important things:
    How often was the oil changed and what does the engine sound like when it's just sitting stationary and idling? A posted video of this would be super helpful as it can let us know the state of the timing chain tension.


    These are the first things off the top of my head, so let's start there, then continue the convo.

    Step 1 though... get a Carfax today, and post the VIN so it can be looked up further. :)


    SkyTree
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2020
  3. mbw

    mbw Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,610
    Likes Received:
    323
    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2010
    Location:
    Des Moines, IA
    I actually think a lot less of an owner who puts johnson rods or any rods on an L319. But ya, the compos are a nice add, they are expensive.

    See if the transmission pan is plastic or metal (upgrade, implies they changed the fluid too). Make sure if you buy it to baseline all the fluids. Pretty easy to DIY change all of it.
     
    Seabassjfr and SkyTree like this.
  4. DaytonaRS7

    DaytonaRS7 Full Access Member

    Age:
    34
    Posts:
    214
    Likes Received:
    110
    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2020
    Location:
    11743
    Earlier this year, I paid 10,500 for my 2011 lr4 hse lux with 138k miles from a used car lot.
    Complete carfax, maintained at a dealer for 125k miles of its life. It had 1 accident on record, which appeared to be fixed properly.

    That said, maintained at a dealer doesn't mean preventative maintained for known issues is completed, therefore I changes the coolant pipes. And with all used cars I purchase, I replaced spark plugs, filters, and all fluids. Expect to do those items to start ownership as a clean slate.

    Expensive unexpected issue I had was to replace the parking brake. $1900.
    Cheap unexpected issues were a vacuum pump oil leak and oil filter housing oil leak. Under $300 total to fix both oil leaks.


    With the mods on that car, you may find that known issues have been addressed. Only an enthusiest would have wheels and tires and lift like that.
     
    gsxr and SkyTree like this.
  5. TrinidadLR4

    TrinidadLR4 Full Access Member

    Age:
    39
    Posts:
    257
    Likes Received:
    158
    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2018
    Location:
    NE Washington DC
    I generally tend to agree that Johnson Rods(or any rods) aren't an upgrade at all and add nothing to these trucks. As far as pricing, I think 11-12k is a fair price if: 1) chains are quiet 2) oil changes done regularly 3) trans shifts OK and 4) LCAs aren't clunking. Upon purchasing I'd replace coolant x-overs, water pump and do the trans fluid service.
     
    SkyTree likes this.
  6. Seabassjfr

    Seabassjfr Member

    Age:
    28
    Posts:
    19
    Likes Received:
    18
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2020
    Location:
    Seattle, Wa
    Thank you everyone for your comments according to your past experience. Ive reviewed the CARFAX and seems to be everything OK, however i was curious about the ownership lenght of each and asked why he has it for only a month. and about the mods and care of the vehicle... This was his response}

    ----
    We’ve had it for a few years but wasn’t transferred until last month. I’m a dealer and have my dealers license here so they can stay in my inventory for as long as I want and I decide to make it my daily driver so I transferred it so I can I sure it under gieco and not my bond. The work, lift tires and rims were put on by me. No rust in California and none rust vehicle. This vehicle has one owner before I purchased it and it was a daily driver with no off road sessions.
    ----

    Even do i like the vehicle ill always be skeptical from a dealership. Ive been browsing nationwide and this is the one ive been more leaned to (5.0L V8s rather than the V6)... however i dont like to be in any rush of being the one that i might think is the one and end up fixing a loose chain... i would really appreciate your comments this vehicle.

    Here are some videos on idle and pictures

    Bests

    Seabass




    Screen Shot 2020-09-26 at 9.15.01 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-09-26 at 9.15.11 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-09-26 at 9.15.17 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-09-26 at 9.15.23 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-09-26 at 9.15.30 PM.png
     
  7. Seabassjfr

    Seabassjfr Member

    Age:
    28
    Posts:
    19
    Likes Received:
    18
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2020
    Location:
    Seattle, Wa
    Heres also the carfax in case anyone would like to take a look!

    Thank you!

    Screen Shot 2020-09-27 at 12.07.11 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-09-27 at 12.07.18 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-09-27 at 12.07.27 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-09-27 at 12.07.39 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2020-09-27 at 12.07.50 PM.png
     
  8. DaytonaRS7

    DaytonaRS7 Full Access Member

    Age:
    34
    Posts:
    214
    Likes Received:
    110
    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2020
    Location:
    11743
    Thats a kind of crappy carfax.
    Where are the service records?
    Why is the odometer lower now than it was nearly a year ago? Lost 2000 miles?
     
    SkyTree likes this.
  9. manoftaste

    manoftaste Full Access Member

    Posts:
    587
    Likes Received:
    145
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2006
    And currently there is no other vehicle on the planet earth, I might add, that offers LR4' unique "Integrated-Body Frame (IBF)" chassis, which, in turn allows for that lower center of gravity + driveline isolation (while the driver still being able to sense all four corners), hence returning a uniquely refined, carved out of stone, well planted/secured, built like a tank feel (if equipped with the right rubber and with the right tire pressures), both on and offroad, with practically zero flex in the frame/chassis.

    The above driving experience, my friend, no SUV, no flatbad, no crossover, no landy, no LX, no X5, no Audi, no RollsRoyce, and not even another Land Rover product from its first ever vehicle to its latest and the greatest including the new Defender, can claim :)

    IBF was the result of engineering done right, vs: being lazy and following the trends/fads/market.

    But if you want to really truly feel and experience the full potential of IBF, you'll have to find a really low mileage LR3 with factory 18 inch wheels. This is because unfortunately with LR4, they screwed up the suspension tuning and the steering weight (primarily to make the soccer moms happy), robbing the truck of an amazing driving experience that could have been due to the redesigned suspension geometry of LR4 for even lower center of gravity.

    Before moving to LR4, I owned an LR3 for six years from 2006 to 2012, braving the last two years out of warranty and putting about 48k miles on it total before I sold it, and did a cross country drive from NY to LA in that thing while the truck was still brand new (only four months old and about 3k miles on it.)

    To this day, I have never driven/owned a vehicle, whether a car, an SUV, or a truck, which felt as safe and well planted as an LR3 on both the potholed riddled city streets as well as at speeds upwards of 75+ mph while driving thru heavy downpours and crosswinds. The feeling of being completely safe inside the cabin of LR3 was so real regardless if it was sunny out or a blizzard/storm was in progress.

    If an uneven surface area appeared in sight while at highway speeds, instead of panic, the feeling of confidence would take over, that: "no prob here, just stay on top of the controls, and the truck will just absorb and float over it while keeping the contact patches fully intact, uncompromised, and without the loss of grip and traction, with zero suspension jarring. Unfortunately the same cannot be said for LR4 when compared to an LR3 :) The suspension/steering weight tuning of LR3 was just perfect. The truck had the true James Bond personality, covering for the paved freeways to the washboard surfaces.

    LR4 on the other hand unfortunately gets super unsettled on any washboard type of surface as the suspension and its rate of return is just way too firm at the top end as well as the steering weight is way too light at higher speeds. But the right tire (like the TerrainContact from conti) and experimenting with tire pressures can mitigate some.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2020
    SkyTree likes this.
  10. Jasevo3rs

    Jasevo3rs Active Member

    Age:
    50
    Posts:
    30
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2020
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    As a comparison I paid $10k from a dealer for my 2012 LR4 HSE LUX with 189k miles a few months back. Came with a reasonably comprehensive Carfax report that showed regular dealer services (unfortunately didn't detail any major fixes) and single owner up to 169k miles. Truck was based in the Texas Hill Country for most of it's life, so can assume mostly country drives. Paint work and interior immaculate. Saying that considering the mileage I did expect to encounter a few issues and have since replaced the battery, starter motor and as of this weekend, the front shocks due to leaky bag on the RH front. All reasonably easy DIY jobs if you have the time and a little handy on the tools. Oh.. also did fluids and crossover pipes as preventative maintenance when I first got her.

    Buying one of these trucks with the higher mileage is of course a roll of the dice but same can be said for any 8-10yr old vehicle. However I spent 16hrs on the road the week before last driving up to Midland TX and have to say she is the most comfortable vehicle I have ever owned... and I've driven across Australia a few times! Whilst I am sure she has a few more surprises in store (had a wierd "Fuel Cap error" come up the other day!), I'm sold. Love her and try to find any excuse just to jump in and take her for a run... "oh, we're out of milk".. no problem, returns in 2 hours! Just need to get off the tarmac and into the bush!

    One thing of note is that with the weight and the V8 she is thirsty for premium fuel. Around town, I'm lucky if I hit 12mpg. Drive up to Midland I averaged 20mpg... which was not too bad. However the V8 is super responsive and considering her bulk she gets up and goes ok!

    Good luck finding a rig that suits.
     
    SkyTree and Seabassjfr like this.

Share This Page