2011 LR4 screens black but runs....Any help?

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Mikepa

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Where I am at:
2011 LR4 HSE will start, run and drive without issue but only if I start using backup key fob positioning under steering column BUT with no displays -, no audio control, no hvac, no speedo/tac, no clock, no RF remote locking/starting. Both instrument cluster and touchscreen and blank, although the instrument cluster will display "engine on" and "lights on" (no LR4 image, no temp, gas date or gear display) That's it.

Vehicle drove flawlessly for 90 minutes on a 90 plus degree sunny day with AC on. Literally got to destination driveway when everything started failing. First fault was tire pressure monitoring system . After that, the hvac turned off and would not turn back on and both the instrument cluster and touchscreen went blank. Car still running fine. Parked but it would not start back up. Floors on both side of the vehicle with lots of water.

Changed the battery on the FOB and managed to get it started after many attempts using backup key positioning under steering column. Got the car home [with no displays] changed the main battery (which was reading between 7v and 9v and no change. Removed and checked every fuse in both central and engine junction boxes. Tore into the floor, vacuumed and dried up all the water over the last week thanks to these hot Mass days. Cleaned all four roof drains. Found HVAC drains in footwells of both sides clogged with small pieces of foam (mice). Cleaned out both. Given how dry it has been, I suspect AC condensation drains failure is where the water inside came from.

Started pulling off every panel possible. Found two mice nests. One inside the center console above the trans linkage cable. Another inside the rear side plastic area above the passenger wheel well where the satellite hardware resides. Other than what resides under the seats, all wiring looms inspected with no noticeable wire damage anywhere. Removed and cleaned all noticeable grounds on the floor.

original owner with just over 100K miles and no electrical issues up until now. Trying to avoid bringing this to the dealer but suspect I need to as i do not have a way to diagnose electrical (i.e., CAN-bus) other than with a multi-meter and disconnecting devices as I find them. Have read everything online and do not see anything similar.

So, what common component could be at fault here? Would an Enging or Central Junction Box fail in such a way that some circuits work but others do not?

Again, car runs once started and many things (e.g, air suspension, 4WD modes, lights, directionals, windows, etc all work fine). Just no displays or controls related to center stack.

Anyone?
 

ftillier

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If you intend on keeping it, I'd suggest buying an IID Tool to read the codes and figure stuff out yourself. In my experience, the dealer will just quote you high enough amounts to push you into a down payment on a new model (JLR Portland quoted me 1300 for a rear pad replacement, for example). It all depends on whether you can manage having your LR4 down while the tool makes its way to you.
 

Mikepa

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If you intend on keeping it, I'd suggest buying an IID Tool to read the codes and figure stuff out yourself. In my experience, the dealer will just quote you high enough amounts to push you into a down payment on a new model (JLR Portland quoted me 1300 for a rear pad replacement, for example). It all depends on whether you can manage having your LR4 down while the tool makes its way to you.
Thx. I have owned three Disco's since 1999, this being the longest. While I have always appreciated the drive, fit and finish of my Rovers, I am simply looking to get this one back to street legal and sold so not really interested in a IID tool purchase.

As you point out and as I have not found any pertinent info for my problem, I am likely looking at two to three thousand quid to replace numerous modules (i.e., BCM, Junction boxes, etc) just to get this back on the road. Funny thing is that it runs perfectly. I just cannot turn on the HVAC or radio nor can I tell what speed I am running or how much is in the tank.

I have downloaded and researched most of the electrical system and many factors (including fuses whose circuits do not read 12v) point to the BCM control being bad. Problem is, replacing this requires reprogramming which I cannot do.
 

ftillier

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Depending on where you are, a forum member here might be willing to read the codes for you with their IID Tool. I don't believe you need to be VIN-activated to read codes, only to make changes. That might help narrow things down. The other thing I'd do, if you had water in the car, is to make sure everything really dries out - probably worth getting some desiccant to absorb whatever moisture might still be there. A hair drier blowing at the main junction box (behind the glovebox) might help sort things out a bit.
 

Mikepa

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Depending on where you are, a forum member here might be willing to read the codes for you with their IID Tool. I don't believe you need to be VIN-activated to read codes, only to make changes. That might help narrow things down. The other thing I'd do, if you had water in the car, is to make sure everything really dries out - probably worth getting some desiccant to absorb whatever moisture might still be there. A hair drier blowing at the main junction box (behind the glovebox) might help sort things out a bit.
Good point. I can post a different thread re: local IID Tool.

With regard to water, that's exactly what I have been doing for the past few weeks before calling anyone (i.e., dealer). Pulled all the floor trim off around the doors sills, vacuumed up standing water with Shopvac, vacuumed carpets with Bissel, propped the carpet up off the floorboards, parked the car on an incline and have run fans and/or let the outside heat (80's) dry everything up. At this point, there does not appear to be any moisture left.

I have also started the engine and tested every fuse in the engine and central junction boxes. My notes are at home but recall four in the engine box and six in the central box not showing steady 12V. Tracing their electrical diagrams back, many lead to relays in the BCM "box".
 

Mikepa

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Just wondering if I bump this topic would anyone else know what to do. I am just now getting back to fixing this problem but it seems no one else has any experience with it. Dealer said it may cost thousands just to diagnose because they have to take entire interior out. Sadly, i have owned three rovers in my life and will not likely own another. Anyone recommend a good mechanic in the MA area?
 

Mikepa

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Found HVAC drains in footwells of both sides clogged with small pieces of foam (mice). Cleaned out both. Given how dry it was weather wise, I suspect AC condensation drains failure is where the water inside came from.
 

djkaosone

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I wonder if your MOST system is damaged from the water. It sits under (I think) LH seat. You can probably pull it out and see if there's any corrosion or damage.
 

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