2012 HSE 5.0 V8 Engine Rattle

[Androomantoo]

My 2012 LR4 HSE (112k miles) developed this ticking/knock/rattle about halfway home on my drive back to KC from Chicago after buying it.

The rattle is quieter when the weather is warmer and gets quieter once the engine has warmed up.

I have replaced the fan clutch and the drive belt tensioner and the rattle is still present.

It really only presents itself above idle and not under load. When I’m under load, say 5th gear going up a hill at ~45mph it almost disappears completely getting progressively quieter the more throttle/load I put it under.

I am really hoping it’s NOT the timing chains/tensioners/guides since I didn’t want to be forced to do them so soon. But it’s starting to seem like it might be time.

The last thing I can think of to try is get a new VVT solenoid and swap it in one at a time to see if that solves it.

I think it’s odd if it were the chains that it suddenly decided to start ticking mid-drive 250 miles after I bought it.

If there’s ANY hope someone had something similar that wasn’t the timing chains, please let me know.

 

[f1racer328]

How many miles are on the engine?

You mentioned you just bought it? It doesn’t sound like a timing chain slapping around.

 

[Androomantoo]

How many miles are on the engine?

You mentioned you just bought it? It doesn’t sound like a timing chain slapping around.

112k miles. Yep just purchased two weeks ago. It was dead quiet on the test drive and half of the drive home.

EDIT: I don’t think it’s the chains either since it seems to have the opposite symptoms (noisy when cold, quiet(er) when warm). That and ambient air temp affects it a lot as well, which is really confusing.

I have a new VVT solenoid on order and the updated pigtail it apparently needs. I’ll just swap each one out with the new until the noise (hopefully) stops.

I also went ahead and ordered some Liqui Moly Molygen 5w-30 and a Wix filter to get some good oil in it. No telling what bargain bin oil they used on the most recent oil change prior to trading it in.

 

[San Moritz LR4]

Sounds like a timing chain tensioner. Obviously, it is next to impossible to diagnose from a video clip. My suggestion is to take it to a independent LR shop/mechanic. Congrats and good luck.

Dean
- 2012 LR4 HSE w/ 177,000 miles
- Compomotive 18" Wheels
- Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T 275/65R18 (3PMSF)
- Johnson Rod 2.5" Lift
- Tactical 4X4 Front Bumper w/ Line-X
- Tactical 4X4 (Steel) Rock Sliders w/ Line-X
- Warn Winch 10,000 LB
- KC Hi-Lites

 

[Androomantoo]

Jag forums for the win! Uncovered this thread after exhaustive searching and his XF 5.0 NA is exhibiting nearly the exact problem. I have a used 125k mile intake from a 2013 RRS on the way along with new intake and TB gaskets.

Help!! Strange noise from engine (video) - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

XF and XFR ( X250 ) - Help!! Strange noise from engine (video) - Hello Jaguarforums! I recently bought a 2011 5.0 naturally aspirated XF Premium Luxury that upon inspection when driving was making a slight rattle or clanking noise that would be apparent on 1.5k - 3k rpm if you listened closely...

www.jaguarforums.com

Mechanic stethoscope also points to a variable runner problem since I detected the noise right above where the actuators are.

I am going to be one happy camper if this resolves it.

Stay tuned.

 

[georgekale]

When was the oil changed? What brand and weight of oil is used?
Wrong brand oil and wrong oil weight will cause your problems. Use factory recommended Castrol oil and the right weight. See if that helps.

 

[georgekale]

112k miles. Yep just purchased two weeks ago. It was dead quiet on the test drive and half of the drive home.

EDIT: I don’t think it’s the chains either since it seems to have the opposite symptoms (noisy when cold, quiet(er) when warm). That and ambient air temp affects it a lot as well, which is really confusing.

I have a new VVT solenoid on order and the updated pigtail it apparently needs. I’ll just swap each one out with the new until the noise (hopefully) stops.

I also went ahead and ordered some Liqui Moly Molygen 5w-30 and a Wix filter to get some good oil in it. No telling what bargain bin oil they used on the most recent oil change prior to trading it in.

Wrong! Wrong! Why out guess the engineers that design the motor. Use 5-20 Castrol oil and factory filter what the manufacture recommends, and you will be good.
I worked at Ford dealer as a Tech when customer comes in with F150 Ford 4.6 motor with less than 6000miles on it. Knocking so bad. Wrong oil installed Quaker state 20-50w oil and Fram filter.
The customer states " I always use this oil in all my trucks and never had problems?
Changing oil with the right weight oil and right filter solved the noise problem.

 

[Rover Range]

Wrong! Wrong! Why out guess the engineers that design the motor. Use 5-20 Castrol oil and factory filter what the manufacture recommends, and you will be good.
I worked at Ford dealer as a Tech when customer comes in with F150 ford 4.6 motor with less than 6000miles on it. Knocking so bad. Wrong oil installed Quaker state 20-50w oil.
The customer states " I always use this oil in all my trucks and never had problems?

I was a Ford tech also. I would see them come in with the oil filters blown apart.

 

[ktm525]

The obsolete 925 spec is simply a long interval spec (ie. the oil has a crap ton of inhibitors added to allow long oil change intervals). Use a quality 5W-20 synthetic, good filter and a reasonable oil change interval of 5-7.5k miles (certainly not Land Rovers 16k mile/24k km) and live a worry free life. The magical Castrol is not required. Current LR3 has 275k kms and the LR4 has 206k kms (on quiet original timing chains) following this protocol. YMMV.

Buy buying Mobil1EP 5W-20 over the Castrol Professional I have saved about $60 per oil change. 2 oil changes per year for 10 years = $1200 for my timing chain tensioner fund. .

 

[Androomantoo]

5w-30 isn't going to hurt this engine any (especially in the warmer temps of Spring/Summer) and Molygen meets or exceeds the 925 spec. Molygen 5w-30 has an HTHS of 2.9 which is fairly thin for a 5w-30. On the other side, Redline (a well-known high end oil) 5w-20 is actually THICKER than Molygen 5w-30 at HTHS 3.0. Castrol 0w-20's are anywhere from 2.6-2.8 HTHS, also not far from the Molygen.

Liqui Moly Molygen is a quality synthetic and not overly thick, I'm not worried.

Yes I would imagine if I threw 20w-50 in it that might cause some problems, but I did nothing anywhere near that extreme.

In any case, I have Motul Specific 948B 5w-20 sitting in my Amazon cart for the next change. I also have Motul X-Clean+ 5w-30 as well in case I decide to continue running that weight.

There is an LR4 5.0 on BITOG running Motul X-Cess 5w-40 at LONG 16k-mile intervals with no issues.