2012 LR4 Reluctant to lower from off-road suspension mode

Longtrail

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You seriously missed out on the Black Friday sales on Lucky8, it was $448.

The cheaper alternative is Autel AP200, it's another alternative that does a few things like suspension calibration, register new key, and some other minor things besides the basic code reading/clearing, live values, etc that's vin locked. It doesn't compare to the Gap IID Tool, nor does it have the user support like Gap/Community.

Dang that sucks... There's always next year!...

The Autel AP200 looks like a good option for my basic initial needs, it seems to range from about $54 to $70 in the US. Hopefully it can pull suspension codes also (I've had a few suspension warnings appear)?
 
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ftillier

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Reach out to lucky8, they have in the past given discounts to forum members. They might even give you the sale price.
 

Longtrail

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Back to the main question, does anyone know where the air goes when you lower the vehicle, is this a valve issue or should I look elsewhere? Thanks.
 

ryanjl

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The main valve is called the reservoir valve block. It's right above the EAS compressor. I believe the air goes out there, but I'm not sure.

The intake for the compressor is located inside the driver's side rear quarter-panel, accessed from inside the boot.

Again, I'd just recommend letting all the air out of the system and let it reset itself. The reservoir valve block might let you do it, but I have a feeling the rear valve block will hold the air in the rear struts. So the rear valve block is probably the one you'll have to tackle.

Regardless, if you had to rebuild the front valve block, you'll likely have to rebuild all three.
 

ftillier

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Does the front lower ok, and it's just the rear that stays up in the air? If so, wouldn't that rule out the exhaust solenoid valve? One thing to note, given the age of your LR4 the desiccant might have turned to powder and started traveling the air lines and gunked up your valve blocks. I would recommend just replacing the dryer assembly, rather than rebuilding, given that the push-to-connect fittings don't always reseal properly after disassembly if that's the case. If it's just the rear that has trouble, cleaning out the valve block is straight forward once you get access to it.
 

Longtrail

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Does the front lower ok, and it's just the rear that stays up in the air? If so, wouldn't that rule out the exhaust solenoid valve? One thing to note, given the age of your LR4 the desiccant might have turned to powder and started traveling the air lines and gunked up your valve blocks. I would recommend just replacing the dryer assembly, rather than rebuilding, given that the push-to-connect fittings don't always reseal properly after disassembly if that's the case. If it's just the rear that has trouble, cleaning out the valve block is straight forward once you get access to it.

Thanks for chiming in, I went ahead and bought the Autel AC200; for $54 I'm super impressed but more about that in a separate thread once I get some time!

I cleared codes last night (with the AC200) and then managed to get a new suspension fault which gave me code C1A13-64 which states "Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery", now I'm getting somewhere! Further research points to desiccant and venting through the compressor, however, the front does appear to lower more readily and with the service that I performed on the valve the vehicle also appears to stay up over night... I agree with your assessment that the issue points to the rear valve rather than the compressor venting so I plan to service the rear valve, see how that goes and then tackle other parts from there. I don't know how to change the desiccant yet but will add this to the "ToDo" list as I strongly suspect it's broken down to powder (the front valve wasn't terrible but I did see some white residual). I'll report back when I know more.
 

Longtrail

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The main valve is called the reservoir valve block. It's right above the EAS compressor. I believe the air goes out there, but I'm not sure.

The intake for the compressor is located inside the driver's side rear quarter-panel, accessed from inside the boot.

Again, I'd just recommend letting all the air out of the system and let it reset itself. The reservoir valve block might let you do it, but I have a feeling the rear valve block will hold the air in the rear struts. So the rear valve block is probably the one you'll have to tackle.

Regardless, if you had to rebuild the front valve block, you'll likely have to rebuild all three.
Thanks :)

Are we talking boot as in British = American trunk??? :). Is there a pipe that runs up there?
 

ftillier

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Changing the dryer, if you have a Hitachi compressor, is straight forward. Hardest part will be disconnecting the hoses from the back side of the compressor (intake and exhaust hoses), and re-installing the compressor bracket when you reassemble due to a hard to reach bolt that need to be tightened. Once the compressor is out of the car, replacing the dryer is a Philips screw, twist and pull, install new in reverse order. If you have the compressor out, you can possibly inspect the exhaust solenoid and clear it of any dust. I'd recommend getting the new compressor hoses, there's a kit for the one that goes from the central valve block to the compressor dryer from Atlantic british, as well as some bits to replace the elbows where the old intake/exhaust hoses go if those got mangled during disassembly. Key to disassembly is to push the hoses into their push-to-connect fitting, and only then depress the release ring, before pulling the hose out.

You mentioned replacing o-rings on your front valve block - where did you source your kit, and did you find the o-rings to fit? I got a kit off amazon and the o-rings were close, but not the same, with several being quite a bit thinner in cross section. I didn't feel comfortable using them, so just cleaned the block out and have been having good luck so far.

The intake pipe goes up into the rear quarter area. The exhaust might also, but I'm not certain. You can see a picture of them in the parts diagram here: https://parts.landroverparamus.com/...0l-v8-gas/electrical--ride-control-components, #20 (intake), and #21 (exhaust, with the muffler can).
 

CRYA

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Changing the dryer, if you have a Hitachi compressor, is straight forward. Hardest part will be disconnecting the hoses from the back side of the compressor (intake and exhaust hoses), and re-installing the compressor bracket when you reassemble due to a hard to reach bolt that need to be tightened. Once the compressor is out of the car, replacing the dryer is a Philips screw, twist and pull, install new in reverse order. If you have the compressor out, you can possibly inspect the exhaust solenoid and clear it of any dust. I'd recommend getting the new compressor hoses, there's a kit for the one that goes from the central valve block to the compressor dryer from Atlantic british, as well as some bits to replace the elbows where the old intake/exhaust hoses go if those got mangled during disassembly. Key to disassembly is to push the hoses into their push-to-connect fitting, and only then depress the release ring, before pulling the hose out.

You mentioned replacing o-rings on your front valve block - where did you source your kit, and did you find the o-rings to fit? I got a kit off amazon and the o-rings were close, but not the same, with several being quite a bit thinner in cross section. I didn't feel comfortable using them, so just cleaned the block out and have been having good luck so far.

The intake pipe goes up into the rear quarter area. The exhaust might also, but I'm not certain. You can see a picture of them in the parts diagram here: https://parts.landroverparamus.com/...0l-v8-gas/electrical--ride-control-components, #20 (intake), and #21 (exhaust, with the muffler can).
Any good recs on a bolt on new dryer assembly in lieu of the internal guts replacement kit where i guess you drill out a rivet etc.? I'd rather spend a few bucks more if the new plug n play assembly is gtg.
 

ftillier

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Any good recs on a bolt on new dryer assembly in lieu of the internal guts replacement kit where i guess you drill out a rivet etc.? I'd rather spend a few bucks more if the new plug n play assembly is gtg.

It's part VUB504700, for Hitachi only.
You can get it from LR: https://parts.landroverlakebluff.com/oem-parts/land-rover-2003-2013-land-rover-dehydrator-vub504700
Atlantic British have one too: https://www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-suspension-parts/VUB504700/

I wish I'd gone this route, as I have a slight leak from the air tube push-to-connect fitting in the cap of my drier from taking it apart after 10 years. Replacing the cap is on my todo list.
 

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