2013 LR4

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Winegrower

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We acquired the LR4 when a couple who had bought it new decided they needed a vehicle they could tow behind the motorhome they purchased from us. We had been towing a 2017 Buick Enclave Premium model which they decided would fit their needs just fine. I'd had my eye on Land Rovers for a long time but due to their reliability ratings had shied away. Well we made the trade anyway, met the folks in Oklahoma and hooked a U-Haul to the Class 4 LR hitch. We emptied the motorhome contents into the U-Haul headed south to Texas to visit the kids then west to Arizona and home.

The original owners had taken good care of it and it had never seen dirt. Overall it is in excellent condition with 57K on the odometer. The LR is a delight to drive. Power, comfort, handling, and quiet combined egonomic design features made the LR much nicer to drive than the Buick, the Lexus GX 460 that had preceeded the Buick, and definitely the '94 Toyota FZJ 70 which had been towed before the Buick. My wife described the Toy as the deathtrap buckboard. In my mind this LR is a real keeper. It is the base LR4 model with black option. How do I find out if it has a limited slip differential? Build codes in the glove box? Serial # on the axle?

Now for the "however" side of the story. I've begun to notice a knocking sound and felt a little shudder when I apply the brakes. The symptoms vary a little depending upon pedal pressure. The rotors show an obvious rim on the edges. And in addition, more troubling, is I've had to add coolant. Based upon some of the forum comments I'm leaning toward replacement of the crossover tubes immediately with an appointment at Land Rover Tucson already scheduled this coming Friday and minimal driving until then.

I'm looking forward to learning more and hopefully contributing a little as I become familiar with this exceptional vehicle.

Cheers to all
 

RyanRR

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Welcome!

Best way to find if you have the locking rear differential would be to plug your VIN into this VIN decoder: https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Land Rover

Then you search to see if you have the HD package. I put my VIN into that website, hit CTRL + F at the same time to open the search bar, and search the page for the word "locking". I was pleasantly surprised to find mine had the locking rear differential. If you don't have the HD package/locking differential, it will say "open rear differential"

As for the brake issue, I'm also getting very close to needing brake work myself (might be due up for new calipers due to our awesome Midwestern salt/rust).

I've had exceptional luck ordering parts from places like FCP Euro, which is almost always going to be significantly cheaper than ordering from a dealer, with better quality parts than you'll find at Autozone or Oreillys, etc.
 
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Winegrower

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I'll investigate. I'm sure enjoying the LR, more than I expected. I do want to stay ahead of disabling issues. The diff is open, rats! On the bright side less tire wear and I'm unlikely to run the rocks at Moab so probably not much of an issue. Thanks for the tips Ryan.
 

RyanRR

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I'll investigate. I'm sure enjoying the LR, more than I expected. I do want to stay ahead of disabling issues. The diff is open, rats! On the bright side less tire wear and I'm unlikely to run the rocks at Moab so probably not much of an issue. Thanks for the tips Ryan.

Like you said, if you're not rock crawling you probably won't miss the locking diff. At any point if you want though, places like Atlantic British (roverparts.com) and I believe Lucky8 sell the locking diffs.

The last thing I'd recommend would be to pick up a GAP IID tool. In my 3-4 weeks of LR4 ownership it's already almost paid for itself. I've read and cleared numerous codes, used it to diagnose my failing battery, raised my suspension a little bit to my liking (instead of paying $125 for Johnson Lift Rods), and I'll be programming my new key I got off Amazon for $30 (dealer wants $400+ for key & programming).
It's a very worthwhile investment at $525 if you plan on keeping the LR4 for a while.
 

Winegrower

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Like you said, if you're not rock crawling you probably won't miss the locking diff. At any point if you want though, places like Atlantic British (roverparts.com) and I believe Lucky8 sell the locking diffs.

The last thing I'd recommend would be to pick up a GAP IID tool. In my 3-4 weeks of LR4 ownership it's already almost paid for itself. I've read and cleared numerous codes, used it to diagnose my failing battery, raised my suspension a little bit to my liking (instead of paying $125 for Johnson Lift Rods), and I'll be programming my new key I got off Amazon for $30 (dealer wants $400+ for key & programming).
It's a very worthwhile investment at $525 if you plan on keeping the LR4 for a while.
I looked at the GAP website. Thanks. That tool will do a good deal more than my old run of the mill OBD II reader. Although I haven't tried to plug it in yet and see what it will do.
I just dropped an AMU (Aviation Monitary Unit 1:1000) on 3M Crystalline window tint today. Here in Southern Arizona with a black interior it's a must have and since it blocks 99.9% of the UV will help preserve that cushy black leather while blocking ~60% of the IR too. Superior to ceramics.
 

joey

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I presume you are a pilot? I am a sport pilot enjoying the life of experimental aircraft. I had a 1946 Ercoupe up till last year.
 

Winegrower

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I presume you are a pilot? I am a sport pilot enjoying the life of experimental aircraft. I had a 1946 Ercoupe up till last year.
Had a friend with a Ercoupe. He loved it. Great little aircraft. Became familiar with AMUs when we owned a Newell Coach. Similare economics to the Beach Baron we had previously. But being a doctor I don't fly. I've got a son who cut his teeth in the Baron and now flies G4s for Jet Edge.
 

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