2014-2016 Traxide Dual Battery Kit Lessons Learned

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Michael Gain

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I have been slowly installing my traxide kit over the last couple of days.

1) The kit is solid, well constructed, and I am excited to finish the install.

2) the instructions are great, but better suited for the earlier models and does not take into account the stock, two-battery system.

Only three observations at this point:

A) with the Atlantic British trailer wiring kit, and the Anderson plug tracing down the driver side tail light you need to be creative and deliberate with the wiring to get the tail light to re-mount.

B) the firewall passage point is above the main wiring harness and VERY difficult to get to. I had to remove the crossover harness bracket to create enough space for a pry bar to remove the plug. I then used the same space to bore a hole through the insulation. The insulation within the footwell is hard rubber. I had to attack it from the inside with a razor blade to widen the hole enough to pass the wire through.
20201128_085434.jpg
20201128_085440.jpg


C) as mentioned previously, the directions did not take into account the start stop battery set up. The three connections on the power distribution box are connected to the start stop battery, the main battery, and the passenger side fuse box.
20200905_092000.jpg


This gave me quite a scare this morning, as I thought the batter was dead. But really, removing the power distribution box removes the cranking battery's connection to the fuse box. The solution to this is to take one of the short connections from the wire going to the mega fuse (connected on the left side in the picture below)
20201128_090346.jpg

And then connect that to the fuse box nut and back to the positive terminal nut (I had to bend it slightly to fit)
20201128_091749.jpg


After I made that connection, the car came back to life. I was able to remove the entire power distribution block bracket and the cross-engine wires.

I also ordered 2x LR069896 to fill the space that the wires left in each battery box.

Other than that, the install has been smooth!
 

Michael Gain

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Well, back to the drawing board. Truck does not start unless the power distribution block is attached. My method gave power to the truck, but it wouldn't even turn over. And, a camera fault flashed across the display.

Re-installed the power distribution block, and wired the truck back the way it was. It started right up. Now, I need to figure out what I need to bypass on the power distribution block so I can remove it.

Any electrical / computer engineers in the group? Or someone a lot more electrically savvy than myself?
 

avslash

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So glad I don't have to deal with that start/stop stuff.

I had wondered before if the Traxide kit could even be adapted to function with it.

Will be interested to hear if you get it sorted.

When you say "power distribution block" are you referring to the Traxide "relay" box?
 

Michael Gain

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No. The "Power supply distribution module" or "Dual Battery junction box" in the service manual. I just didn't want to type it all out, but can see that I should be more clear lol.

The traxide kit will still work. It's battery fitment that is the issue--the module just takes up too much room. I played with the power supply distribution module last night and I think that it is just a big relay.

Power from the battery goes in the top post and the circuit is open to the fuse box lead on the second post at steady state.

I think that one of the harnesses has an ignition trigger wire that opens the relay and provides power to the cameras and other "stuff" (hence, the camera fault when it was disconnected), but also triggers the starter--the truck will not start without the module connected.

I tried logging into Topix yesterday (to download the wiring schematic for it), but get an error to contact the help desk. I contacted them but have not heard back...


So glad I don't have to deal with that start/stop stuff.

I had wondered before if the Traxide kit could even be adapted to function with it.

Will be interested to hear if you get it sorted.

When you say "power distribution block" are you referring to the Traxide "relay" box?
 

Michael Gain

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Figured it out! The power supply distribution box sends power from battery 1 to the starter pinion relay and the starter motor relay.
Screenshot_20201206-223540.png


The two wire plug in the bottom right corner (circled in orange) is the cuprit. Using two spade terminals and bridging 12 volts from the main battery to this plug solved the no-start problem.

Screenshot_20201206-223908.jpg


The multi-pin connector on the bottom left (circled in red) is diagnostic. It's removal does not affect the vehicle other than illuminating the ECO light---i believe that bridging 12 volts to the "V BATT 2" pin will turn off the light.

Screenshot_20201206-224040.jpg


More pictures tomorrow of the newly cleared out 2nd battery compartment and wire routing.
 

bbyer

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Wow - I have had the Traxide dual battery setup in my 3 for years now. Relatively speaking, it was easy to install etc - and I thought the 3 had too many computers.

This sort of mod takes patience and research.

I appreciate you posting all the pictures re your 4 install - not easy but you are succeeding. Well done.

LR3 Traxide Dual Battery Install 0476.JPG


Aux Battery vent 8.jpg


Main Battery showing cable around corner 0437.JPG
 

Michael Gain

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Cleared out and plugs moved to the alarm horn area.

20201207_090444.jpg


Here is a close up of the two-wire plug. I split an 8-gauge wire's strands into two halves and used two spade connectors to connect to the plug.
Screenshot_20201207-125145.jpg

The wire goes across the back of the engine bay and connects to the starting battery
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Finally, here is the test fit of an AGM H6 battery. I had to trim the plastic "feet" but it's a snug and perfect fit.
20201207_115758.jpg


More pictures later!
 

Michael Gain

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Thank you! Hopefully, my struggles can help the next person. This is also a great way to eliminate the start stop feature. I may play with the multi-pin plug today and see if supply 12v power to the VBATT2 pin removes the ECO light.


Wow - I have had the Traxide dual battery setup in my 3 for years now. Relatively speaking, it was easy to install etc - and I thought the 3 had too many computers.

This sort of mod takes patience and research.

I appreciate you posting all the pictures re your 4 install - not easy but you are succeeding. Well done.

View attachment 12017

View attachment 12018

View attachment 12019
 

bbyer

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At least your aux battery looks like a battery - it is the correct colour.

My new replacement Interstate on the Aux side has a green plastic top - looks like a fern, not a battery. It is good that the battery cover fits over the Aux - that is why the terminal post clamp wiring is on upside down.

Thanks for the pictures.

Interstate MTP-H7 Group 94R battery.jpg


Overall view from main side 4.jpg
 

Michael Gain

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Finally complete.
20201208_140217.jpg
20201208_143303.jpg
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Bad news on ECO light though. Even bridging the terminal port for V BATT 2 to 12v does not remove the ECO light. It actually set three communication DTCs.

Overall, I'm happy with the install and can live with the ECO light lol
 

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